Rebound and bump for idiots - Page 4

**shimmy** · 25-11-2009, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lee13

Hi Glendog74 I would be really interested to know what castor and toe settings are linked to the -2.5 & -3.5 negative camber and how it changes if at all when moved to -3.5. Also do you know how they set the back up?? Camber & toe?? I'm quite shocked other people are running as much as -2.5 negative with no premature tyre wear inside on the road. Sorry for all the questions but I'm fairly new to CSL ownership and have adjustable topmounts now so would like the best of both worlds on road and track......

ive seen cars running -2 on road with premature front inner wear let alone -2.5 so i am shocked as well, so maybe depends on mileage and maybe other settings such as toe and castor as well more than i thought?

my toe used to move from 1mm in to 0.5mm out when i changed camber form -1.5 to -2.5. Simpsons recently said that the movement in toe is more now i have -2 to -3 (no figures though) and i guess even more with -2.5 to -3.5 making it difficult to have the toe acceptable on road and track

Lee13 · 25-11-2009, 06:19 PM

Thanks Shimmy, everyone seems to run different and has different tyre wear. I have set mine at -2.0 for the road with standard castor and toe. I guess I should just see how I get on and maybe run -3.0 on track. Do you find that's ok then?? Do you find a little toe out on track is better than the standard 0 degrees?? Also what do you run on the rear? I cant find anything really on set up only -0.5 camber to help oversteer but no mention of toe settings.... Thanks in advance for the help Lee

s.mac · 25-11-2009, 06:20 PM

I have standard suspension running at -1.5 camber with 10mm spacers and I have premature inner front tyre wear. Don't ask me about toe and castor though

tyre wear is quite severe

**shimmy** · 25-11-2009, 06:35 PM

ok, my car is set up by Simpsons. I used to have it set up for heavy road use (lots of miles) so went with front -1.5 camber, 1mm in toe. My PS2 tyres have lasted about 20k miles so far and on front still have 2mm and a little inner premature wear (but i suspect this was from -2 camber days a few years ago)

I think that Simpsons prefer to run toe out a little on track rather than have too much toe in on road. I think the balance is quite tricky but for the -1.5/-2.5 set up 1mm in and 0.5mm out was ok.

I am not sure what the toe settings are for my new set up (i will ask) but i suspect it is probably around 1.25mm in and 0.5mm out - dont quote this

on the rear i have always run -1.25mm camber and 1mm toe in for road and track. Tyre wear is perfect and curent Cups have now done 7 track days/1200 track miles. There might be better grip set ups at the rear but i am apy with good wear tbh.

NOW i have to add that this year i fitted the Intrax and it makes a massive difference to tyre wear imho on track as it stops the roll quite a bit and saves the edges. Not sure it makes much difference on the road (

Lee13 · 25-11-2009, 06:54 PM

Thanks for all the info Shimmy

**glendog74** · 25-11-2009, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lee13

Hi Glendog74 I would be really interested to know what castor and toe settings are linked to the -2.5 & -3.5 negative camber

Can't help i'm afraid - i don't know!

daniel · 25-11-2009, 08:57 PM

It sounds like everybody is using simpsons on here! What does a full alignment and proper setup run you?

**shimmy** · 25-11-2009, 09:14 PM

tbh sb, Simpsons, Thorney, Bexley Motorworks (BMS) and a few others all can do a good geo, as they all race and do road cars.

Pick your closest if it is just geo you want but just make sure you tell them what you want to achieve

NZ_M3 · 25-11-2009, 10:20 PM

Static toe out on the track is fine - gives better turn in - but on the road it'll tram line quite a bit (that's what happened with mine anyway, so I've gone back to very very slight toe in for better stability) I ran quite a bit of toe out to help with the low speed understeer, but it just made the car way too nervous to drive for me at the limit.

**shimmy** · 25-11-2009, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NZ_M3

Static toe out on the track is fine - gives better turn in - but on the road it'll tram line quite a bit (that's what happened with mine anyway, .

thats what i was told at the time

25-11-2009, 06:19 PM	#32
Lee13 S2 - Picking it up Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 46 Casino cash: $1183	Thanks Shimmy, everyone seems to run different and has different tyre wear. I have set mine at -2.0 for the road with standard castor and toe. I guess I should just see how I get on and maybe run -3.0 on track. Do you find that's ok then?? Do you find a little toe out on track is better than the standard 0 degrees?? Also what do you run on the rear? I cant find anything really on set up only -0.5 camber to help oversteer but no mention of toe settings.... Thanks in advance for the help Lee Last edited by Lee13; 25-11-2009 at 06:56 PM.

25-11-2009, 06:20 PM	#33
s.mac CSL Register Uber-poster! Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 4,247 Casino cash: $15600	I have standard suspension running at -1.5 camber with 10mm spacers and I have premature inner front tyre wear. Don't ask me about toe and castor though tyre wear is quite severe

25-11-2009, 06:35 PM	#34
shimmy CSL Register Uber-poster! Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Uk Posts: 14,646 Casino cash: $43909	ok, my car is set up by Simpsons. I used to have it set up for heavy road use (lots of miles) so went with front -1.5 camber, 1mm in toe. My PS2 tyres have lasted about 20k miles so far and on front still have 2mm and a little inner premature wear (but i suspect this was from -2 camber days a few years ago) I think that Simpsons prefer to run toe out a little on track rather than have too much toe in on road. I think the balance is quite tricky but for the -1.5/-2.5 set up 1mm in and 0.5mm out was ok. I am not sure what the toe settings are for my new set up (i will ask) but i suspect it is probably around 1.25mm in and 0.5mm out - dont quote this on the rear i have always run -1.25mm camber and 1mm toe in for road and track. Tyre wear is perfect and curent Cups have now done 7 track days/1200 track miles. There might be better grip set ups at the rear but i am apy with good wear tbh. NOW i have to add that this year i fitted the Intrax and it makes a massive difference to tyre wear imho on track as it stops the roll quite a bit and saves the edges. Not sure it makes much difference on the road (

25-11-2009, 06:54 PM	#35
Lee13 S2 - Picking it up Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 46 Casino cash: $1183	Thanks for all the info Shimmy

25-11-2009, 08:57 PM	#37
daniel S4 - Getting the hang of it Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 247 Casino cash: $11332	It sounds like everybody is using simpsons on here! What does a full alignment and proper setup run you?

25-11-2009, 09:14 PM	#38
shimmy CSL Register Uber-poster! Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Uk Posts: 14,646 Casino cash: $43909	tbh sb, Simpsons, Thorney, Bexley Motorworks (BMS) and a few others all can do a good geo, as they all race and do road cars. Pick your closest if it is just geo you want but just make sure you tell them what you want to achieve

25-11-2009, 10:20 PM	#39
NZ_M3 S5, Sport On, DSC M-track Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Auckland, New Zealand Posts: 1,434 Casino cash: $13579	Static toe out on the track is fine - gives better turn in - but on the road it'll tram line quite a bit (that's what happened with mine anyway, so I've gone back to very very slight toe in for better stability) I ran quite a bit of toe out to help with the low speed understeer, but it just made the car way too nervous to drive for me at the limit.