Not CSL But sudgestions requested.

[shane@mbtech]

Are you running staggered wheel/Tyres?

[_Nathan_]

You could add a little more rake?

[shimmy]

matty

as you are on road tyres imho getting grip levels right is critical

not easy to give you an answer as the combination of damper build/adjustment, spring rates, geo settings, tyre make and condition, and then the variable conditions make it very complicated.

if it were me and listening to your comment i would in this order:

1. make sure tyres are fresh and soft
2. assuming dampers and springs fixed set car more soft to front and hard to rear on dampers until you get more grip on turn in whilst maintaining high speed stability and kerb runing at rear
3. get proper pyro info/advice to set up the cars geo, getting temps and adjusting pressures wheel by wheel is invaluable as it takes guess work out. on CSL on cups we showed front camber at -2.75 was perfect and rear at -2.0 was not quite enough to get even temps across the tyre even by dropping pressures more than maybe would be recommeded

At Snett for simple improvements i would concentrate for lap times only 4 key corners

Riches, Williams, Bomb Hole and Murrays. if you can set up and drive these corners you will gain heaps of time and maybe open up more overtaking chances at the end of the straights

[Funkster]

Originally Posted by lawsy

Are you running staggered wheel/Tyres?

No we are running a square setup on 17's shane !

We do run 10mm spacers front and back in the wet but it's only coz our wet wheels don't clear the AP's.

Nathan,
We have the front slammed as low as possible, any more and we are scrubbing tyres on turn in. I suppose raising the back slightly could loosen the rear and possibly help the front.

Matty.

[shane@mbtech]

Originally Posted by Funkster

No we are running a square setup on 17's shane !

We do run 10mm spacers front and back in the wet but it's only coz our wet wheels don't clear the AP's.

Nathan,
We have the front slammed as low as possible, any more and we are scrubbing tyres on turn in. I suppose raising the back slightly could loosen the rear and possibly help the front.

Matty.

The BC are not the greatest, and being slammed will probably have the front too low, bottoming out causing it to skip on initial turn in.

Try raising the front. And soften too.

[The Gorilla]

Hi,

Little lacking in info here but, your BC's are
not up to proper Track Work.

What spring rates F & R
Tenders or Helpers F & R
Any Valve Rates ?
Rebound and compression adjust all in one ?
And so on.

You would find the front much more compliant
and sharper on turn in if running say E36 Grp N front
springs, and even the std Front dampers, as Grp N
spring rate is well match to the std damper
valving, and was developed for Racing, not like
the BC's.

If your budget allows then loose the BC's and
obtain some 'proper' coilovers.
If not, putting stiffer springs on the BC's
will not do much as you want the car to sit
on the springs and ride on dampers so they
do the work. BC's are not designed like this.

You also require stiffer front ARB if its
std E36 328 and use adjustable ARB drop
Links so you can take off any pre-load
from the front ARB, you do not want it working
before the chassis has even rolled in.

I can not remember but I think the 328 STD ARB
has flat flange ends so you can redrill a new hole
for the drop link and stiffen it that way if budget
is tight, same goes for the rear.

Adjustable drop links also allows rear ARB to taken right off in the wet.

Make sure your front wishbones at ride
height are in the very least level or
better still inclined down towards hub.
If they are inverted to Car, then it will handle like
a pig on chocolate.

If you can set the car with the front wishbones
level or inclined, then you may find
that a longer spring on the BC's gives you
a little more compliant ride until you can ditch
them.

You will require bump spacers for the Wishbones
and the steering tie rods, so that you can lower
them at the hub.

If the Wishbones are inverted then your roll centre
is below Ground level on turn in which pushes all
the load through the wishbones etc and makes the
car handle like its on jelly.

Irrespective of wheel / tyre widths/ combo's try and
make sure that the centre line of the front Track,
ie centre of rim to centre of rim
is circa 5mm + more wider than the rear Track, even if running
staggered set up with wider rear tyres.

That will also assist with turn in.

Do you have the M52/M54 Alloy Block engine ?

If so, be careful on Spring Rates as its circa 35kg +
less weigh up front and makes quite a difference from
something for a Iron 6 pot.

Hope that helps,

Regards,

The Gorilla.

[Funkster]

Right, Some really good info there guys and plenty of food for thought.

I know the coilovers are not the best and we are racing on a tight budget and doing everything ourselves so the ratio of fun/spend is so far really satisfying. I have a friend who has stepped up and up in his racing career but it seems to be causing a lot less smiles and miles for a lot larger piles ( of cash )

Link to Coily's we are using http://www.bc-racing.co.uk/coilovers-series-rm/
They are single adjustable with bump/rebound in one.
We are running Fr 560lb and Rears at 475lb but I have no idea on valve rates.
The tyres are new only one race ago and are in great condition...
Linky to Tyres http://www.federaltire.com/en/produc...ts_detail_sn=3

It is the M52 Alloy engine fitted

We have debated on making some adjustable tie rods for the roll bar as the Standard 328 item is already larger in diameter that the M3 bar so it should suffice but it connects to the suspension arm rather than the leg, We initially connected ours to the front leg as the M3 would but the car was picking up the inside wheel up to 5" during a race at Cadwell in really hot conditions last year so we moved back to original settings later ( Although we did win the race )

I'm going to look into the suspension arm angles but I'm sure we have a slight incline down to hub and steering arms as a friend was trying to explain dyanmic camber to me and I was looking the other night whether the steering rack could be spaced slighlty lower to level it up any more.

I think my initial things to try on Monday are pretty much what Shimmy has said... Stiffen the rear and possibly soften the front. The car is not that far from perfect for me and we are deffinitley competitive in our Class but I'm just chasing that Initial front bite that I feel could be better.

Really appreciate your feedback guys.... As I said we just want to get the most out od what we already have....... It's just so satisfying when you get a pole in class or fatsest lap of the race and it's all been setup by us on a shoestring Matty.

[The Gorilla]

Hi,

Keep the steering rack as High
as you can, the lower it goes the
greater the risk of Bump Steer.

Spring rates are OK'ish on the front
may be a tad soft, personally I would
increase Rear spring rate, but we are
not all the same.

Regards,

The Gorilla