Oil cooler diverter valve - Page 9

O'Neill · 18-01-2014, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shimmy

I know someone who had the Evolve map, then Simpsons map, the. evolve map, then had the maps erased and a standard BMW map put on.

Not me though.

I just have a new engine with BMW map.

Ahh, you also said when you had the Nitron they were good

**shimmy** · 18-01-2014, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by O'Neill

Ahh, you also said when you had the Nitron they were good

Had to sell the shitty fuckers somehow

**alexk** · 18-01-2014, 08:31 PM

I still believe the OEM thermostat goes wrong very soon.

If you see the analysis I did here with an old and new thermostat, it is clear that the old thermostat does not open fully.
http://www.cslregister.com/forum/sho...?t=6793&page=4

Guess what ? Last summer I had overheating issues again (even on the highway in Greece, going uphill with 160km/h and certainly not WOT).
At the same time, when the car is driven normally the water temp is moving between the center and then less than center point.
That's a failed thermostat.
I am going to change my waterpump and thermostat now.
As soon as I receive the new one, I will do a new test again and I am sure the one that I currently have in the car, has the same symptoms. Does not open fully.

So when you wonder why shimmy's car was overheating and lawsy's did not, I am sure it's the thermostat.

I personally never had oil temps higher than 120C (even in a trackday last summer with 36-37C).
I am not sure what can be the root cause. Old oil ? Bad Oil thermostat ? Not sure to be honest.

Here's my post from July 2013>
-----------
If you see a post of mine with some thermostat tests, I think the S54 thermostat design is a bit clunky and I start to believe that it develops issues over time, especially on cars that are not being driven oftenly.
If the thermostat does not open my 1-2mm, the water flow will be reduced.
-----------

O'Neill · 18-01-2014, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shimmy

Had to sell the shitty fuckers somehow

**alexk** · 18-01-2014, 08:32 PM

To add to the above.
Here's another good one for BMW. Bad quality of thermostats.
Mine is going to be warranty this time, as I have the other one less than 2 years.

shane@mbtech · 18-01-2014, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by O'Neill

Ahh, you also said when you had the Nitron they were good

Ask him about the 4.10 diff

**shimmy** · 18-01-2014, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexk

To add to the above.
Here's another good one for BMW. Bad quality of thermostats.
Mine is going to be warranty this time, as I have the other one less than 2 years.

I swapped mine for MStat and no change

O'Neill · 18-01-2014, 08:46 PM

Guys as alexgtt has said, it's a road car with road car refinements.

Rip out the aircon system and aircon rad, put some holes in the bonnet, remove pollen filter and seals, get rid of the rad shrouding and viscous fan then the temps should be more stable.... Maybe.

**alexk** · 18-01-2014, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shimmy

I swapped mine for MStat and no change

How do you know it opens fully ?

**shimmy** · 18-01-2014, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexk

How do you know it opens fully ?

Just trusting that easier to beleive both are good and working rather than both are faulty, same as oil cooler, pump, fan, HG, rads, etc etc

Always possible i have twos faulty ones but not likely.

18-01-2014, 08:31 PM	#83
alexk Driving it like I nicked it Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 2,785 Casino cash: $29970	I still believe the OEM thermostat goes wrong very soon. If you see the analysis I did here with an old and new thermostat, it is clear that the old thermostat does not open fully. http://www.cslregister.com/forum/sho...?t=6793&page=4 Guess what ? Last summer I had overheating issues again (even on the highway in Greece, going uphill with 160km/h and certainly not WOT). At the same time, when the car is driven normally the water temp is moving between the center and then less than center point. That's a failed thermostat. I am going to change my waterpump and thermostat now. As soon as I receive the new one, I will do a new test again and I am sure the one that I currently have in the car, has the same symptoms. Does not open fully. So when you wonder why shimmy's car was overheating and lawsy's did not, I am sure it's the thermostat. I personally never had oil temps higher than 120C (even in a trackday last summer with 36-37C). I am not sure what can be the root cause. Old oil ? Bad Oil thermostat ? Not sure to be honest. Here's my post from July 2013> ----------- If you see a post of mine with some thermostat tests, I think the S54 thermostat design is a bit clunky and I start to believe that it develops issues over time, especially on cars that are not being driven oftenly. If the thermostat does not open my 1-2mm, the water flow will be reduced. ----------- __________________ www.clubcsl.com - I am a BMW Motorsport fan ! My youtube channel is here

18-01-2014, 08:32 PM	#85
alexk Driving it like I nicked it Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 2,785 Casino cash: $29970	To add to the above. Here's another good one for BMW. Bad quality of thermostats. Mine is going to be warranty this time, as I have the other one less than 2 years. __________________ www.clubcsl.com - I am a BMW Motorsport fan ! My youtube channel is here

18-01-2014, 08:46 PM	#88
O'Neill S5, Sport On, DSC M-track Join Date: Dec 2010 Posts: 1,058 Casino cash: $21503	Guys as alexgtt has said, it's a road car with road car refinements. Rip out the aircon system and aircon rad, put some holes in the bonnet, remove pollen filter and seals, get rid of the rad shrouding and viscous fan then the temps should be more stable.... Maybe.