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Old 28-04-2010, 12:13 PM   #21
NZ_M3
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Originally Posted by Pip1968 View Post
I am popping down to Munich Legends tomorrow to get the flange cut and rewelded complete with a new flange as one of my flanges has cracked. I tried at the dealership for a new back box under warranty due to cracked flange but they turned me down despite saying that a lot of other owners had had it covered under warranty.

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If you are doing that might pay to get some rust proffing on the new flange or paint it with high temp VHT exhaust paint - otherwise it'll just corrode and break again.

My opinion is using the clamp bushing might be an easier method and longer lasting.
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Old 28-04-2010, 12:38 PM   #22
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While we're talking about Exhausts and warranty. Mine was in for a rattle last year and even though I've got a Milltek Backbox, they replaced the exhaust bracket on the centre section under warranty... which was nice.
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Old 28-04-2010, 03:05 PM   #23
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Local dealer has one of the exhaust clamp bushings in stock so have reserved it.

Shall do a photographic rebuild of the set up for future use to everyone

Thanks for the part no's Tom
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Old 28-04-2010, 09:13 PM   #24
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pip if you have a uac warranty they have no option to replace it under the terms of the aggrement!
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Old 29-04-2010, 07:44 PM   #25
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Just had a look at mine, looks like I'm in the same boat with no flanges left! Not sure how to play it.
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Old 30-04-2010, 11:02 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rstoughy View Post
Rich,

Here are some pics of the pipes.

Cheers Paul... how is the flange meant to stay on the longer piece of pipe if there's no flared end to it?
Or is it normally fixed?

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Old 30-04-2010, 12:39 PM   #27
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Works by compression on the Gasket Ring much the same as a copper pipe and olive set up

Will take loads of pics tomorrow when i am doing it and post them up.
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Old 30-04-2010, 12:47 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by rstoughy View Post
Works by compression on the Gasket Ring much the same as a copper pipe and olive set up

Will take loads of pics tomorrow when i am doing it and post them up.
Ah OK, think I understand.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:11 PM   #29
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Ok here goes...i will try to explain as best i can what i have done.

Had a trip into the local dealers this morning to collect my order.
Placed this during the week and basically ordered everything i thought id need to do the job.

The bits, £54 all in




After looking to see where i was going to cut the centre part of the system to allow the flange to go on i discovered there is only one part of it that is round and that is up near the flared end so decided it wasnt an option and id need to go with plan B.

Double checked the OD of the pipe v's the ID of the flange and thought it was a bit tight.




Fired up the pencil Grinder and removed some material from the flange to give it a bit of movement.




Then cut the side section out of the Flange. Decided on this rather than chopping the exhaust as it's much thicker material for welding + only £6 if i destroy it.








Time to break out the old Welder.




All done ready for painting.






At this stage i bolted up the 3 rear Exhaust hangers to the car with the bolts that attach them to the silencer in place but pushed back through the hangers so as not to catch the silencer on its way up into position.

This also allows you more movement with the silencer to get it onto the longer pipe of the centre section.

I also slid the seal ring onto the longer pipe.




Once all the Hanger bolts were made up hand tight it was a case of tighten up the flanges.
I pulled the system apart slightly and popped in the other Seal ring then made up the flange / bolts.

I did the Inside pipe 1st as this is fixed in position so once tight it means that the outer pipe is in the correct position and can also be nipped up.




Again once all made up i painted the whole lot with a Hi Temp anti corrosion coating we use on stuff for offshore.








That was it really,
Fired up the car and checked for leaks, lowered it down, fitted my new Tax and went out for a road test.





God it's good to have the thing back on the road


I hope this will be usefull to anyone who has the same sort of issue in the future.

Took me about 2-1/2 hrs from start to finish so worth it IMO.

Thanks to everyone who gave me information on this over the last week.

Cheers,
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:47 AM   #30
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Great job Paul Thanks for the pictures.

What a shame that the joinder clamp method wouldn't work - would have otherwise been an easy non welding repair (I suppose if you resort to hacking off both flared flanges then it "might" work?)

Interesting that the new flanges are now coated with what seemed to be an anti-rust coating.
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