Ride Heights

[glendog74]

[NZ_M3]

Run the fronts too low and all you'll get is understeer

[titan]

Originally Posted by shimmy

FYI Titan, I've settled on 643 front and 640 rear ride heights. I think that's measured from top of arch by Simpsons and I am on Intrax as well. Thats not ultra low but no rubbing road or track.

Cheers, thats useful. So I'm comparing apples with apples - from top of arch to wheel centre ?

[titan]

Originally Posted by lawsy

What are your offsets Lee?

I ran TD 18x9 in both 20 and 30 offset

On same ride heights the 20 caught on the rear outer arch on fast track use.

I did not specify a set ride height, I just used my man Chris @ centre gravity (who is the best geo guy I think about), he corner weighted and dialled in my settings, it was a tad lower than yours iirc.

I also noted that other set-ups where lower rear to front, my car had more rake the other way, which is open to personal preference.

My advice try it yourself, change heights- one mans perfect set-up is shit for another.

ET30 and 20mm spacers at the rear, seems perfect from the point of filling the width of the arches. I can only imagine ET20 would need some serious camber to squeeze in, or rub ;-)

I think generally, if you lower the front too much you also need to stiffen it up and this introduces understeer.

I also increased the camber at the front this weekend (not tested on track yet, just the road) and found that in the dry its a more positive turn in, but in the wet understeers more. Clearly horses for courses in all conditions.

[AlexGTT]

Originally Posted by titan

Cheers, thats useful. So I'm comparing apples with apples - from top of arch to wheel centre ?

No mate, that's top of arch to ground or surface plates if on set up rig.

What cambers are you using for dry at the mo?

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by titan

Cheers, thats useful. So I'm comparing apples with apples - from top of arch to wheel centre ?

I think that is the proper way to easier I but Simpsons measure top of arch to floor (which introduces two errors in wheels size and tyre size) so if you are running 640 to wheel centre you are driving a TRACTOR

Just measured and top of arch to wheels centre looks like 330F and 325R

[titan]

340F and 325R. Although thats a best guess at looking past the tape to the wheel centre, if I bend/follow the tape into the wheel centre you can add another 5mm.

Simpson set the camber at 1.5 and said that a little trick is to ignore the adjusters on the topmounts, but instead slacken the turret bolts and the play between outside and inside was equivalent to another degree (and also made a little toe-out). Not having a camber gauge I cannot say.

[daniel]

2.5"-3" front camber is what you need

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by daniel

2.5"-3" front camber is what you need

He will have -2.5 when top mounts are adjusted

You prob will want -3 or more for the correct camber on track Tyres depending on circuit but running more than -1.5 on road for long distances will knacker the insides

[shane@mbtech]

I set mine to -3.5* front on the inners of the turrets, then slacken off and move out to approx -2.5* on the outer of the turrets using the 3 13mm nuts. Takes 2 secs and saves tyre wear, although I used to forget and my tyres still worn perfectly even too.

As you say, moving the camber in takes the toe back to near 0, from the slight toe out I was running.

I never had any understeer issues either, I will try to dig out my spec sheets for my ride heights.

But as I said Lee, experiment and find what suits YOU. Thats what I did.

I tried simpsons Geo, but I actually prefered the way Chris set mine up, I was faster on Chris's setup too. Not taking anything away from The simpsons lads, because they know their onions. I just prefered a different set-up. I think Chris set my car up more aggressive than Simpsons did, and it suited me more.