CSL door sill replacements? - Page 2

Bartlett-Auto · 12-07-2014, 10:02 AM

We just ordered some of these in for a new CSL customer

- they are currently £89.17+VAT each from BMW (£107 inc). As before just contact your local dealer (or us) with chassis info / registration and they can be ordered specifically for your vehicle.

Pip1968 · 12-07-2014, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jon8710

Stick the old ones on ebay, sorted.

I sold mine the the member on here from NZ !

That is because he (NBTR - ?)refurbishes them I seem to remember.

Pip

**shimmy** · 12-07-2014, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pip1968

That is because he (NBTR - ?)refurbishes them I seem to remember.

Pip

Ow e do dat?

Marv968 · 12-07-2014, 06:54 PM

Sorry about the 'cutters link:

http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=28523

**shimmy** · 12-07-2014, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marv968

Sorry about the 'cutters link:

http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=28523

JBird · 13-07-2014, 01:40 PM

Nice work!

For the benifit of the trolls out there, the bloke on cutters just removes the lacquer with paint stripper, then leaves them raw. Not too bad an idea as sanding will destroy the brushed finish. I wonder if the Alu is pitted underneath, or if its in good enough cond re-cover them afterwards, either in venture sheild or clear coat? Might give this a go.

Marv968 · 13-07-2014, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JBird

Nice work!

For the benifit of the trolls out there, the bloke on cutters just removes the lacquer with paint stripper, then leaves them raw. Not too bad an idea as sanding will destroy the brushed finish. I wonder if the Alu is pitted underneath, or if its in good enough cond re-cover them afterwards, either in venture sheild or clear coat? Might give this a go.

From what I've read, if you lacquer/clear coat them after using paint stripper, after a while, water gets under the lacquer again and you're back round to square 1.

I suspect if you use paint stripper, you're better off just keeping a nice layer of wax/sealant on them and wiping them clean weekly/monthly.

JBird · 13-07-2014, 03:01 PM

How does water get under the clear coat in the first place? They don't just bubble from the edges, but also from the middle.

Is aluminum porus when rolled that thin, or is the OEM clear coat porus?. Since coke cans don't leak, and normal clear coat doesn't bubble on the rest of the car, surly BMW have just used a shit form of clear coat.

Marv968 · 13-07-2014, 03:54 PM

I think generally, lacquer/clearcoat can't adhere very well to polished or brushed, shiny aluminium.

You get the same problems with diamond cut/machined wheels.

Just a small scratch or chip to the clearcoat and a bit of water gets in and oxidation happens.

Of course, no clear coat means that oxidation will happen very quickly, unless you keep it waxed or polished with metal cleaner.

Seems there's no easy answer to this one?

**Mark CSL** · 13-07-2014, 04:18 PM

Buy new ones then pop some venture sheld over them just a little bigger than the silver part
had mine on the car for 6 years and washed almost every couple of days
still like new

12-07-2014, 10:02 AM	#11
Bartlett-Auto Wonky 'L' after Washing Join Date: May 2014 Location: Huntingdon Posts: 15 Casino cash: $364	We just ordered some of these in for a new CSL customer - they are currently £89.17+VAT each from BMW (£107 inc). As before just contact your local dealer (or us) with chassis info / registration and they can be ordered specifically for your vehicle. __________________ Dang3rMou5e_[Damo] Bartlett Automotive - 01480 459771

12-07-2014, 06:54 PM	#14
Marv968 S4 - Getting the hang of it Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Suffolk coast Posts: 214 Casino cash: $8472	Sorry about the 'cutters link: http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=28523 __________________ UK CSL no.27

13-07-2014, 03:54 PM	#19
Marv968 S4 - Getting the hang of it Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Suffolk coast Posts: 214 Casino cash: $8472	I think generally, lacquer/clearcoat can't adhere very well to polished or brushed, shiny aluminium. You get the same problems with diamond cut/machined wheels. Just a small scratch or chip to the clearcoat and a bit of water gets in and oxidation happens. Of course, no clear coat means that oxidation will happen very quickly, unless you keep it waxed or polished with metal cleaner. Seems there's no easy answer to this one? __________________ UK CSL no.27

13-07-2014, 04:18 PM	#20
Mark CSL CSL Register Uber-poster! Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Scotland Posts: 8,777 Casino cash: $42229	Buy new ones then pop some venture sheld over them just a little bigger than the silver part had mine on the car for 6 years and washed almost every couple of days still like new __________________ www.procarkits.co.uk

13-07-2014, 01:40 PM	#16
JBird S5 - Full Throttle Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Munich Posts: 280 Casino cash: $5259	Nice work! For the benifit of the trolls out there, the bloke on cutters just removes the lacquer with paint stripper, then leaves them raw. Not too bad an idea as sanding will destroy the brushed finish. I wonder if the Alu is pitted underneath, or if its in good enough cond re-cover them afterwards, either in venture sheild or clear coat? Might give this a go.

13-07-2014, 03:01 PM	#18
JBird S5 - Full Throttle Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Munich Posts: 280 Casino cash: $5259	How does water get under the clear coat in the first place? They don't just bubble from the edges, but also from the middle. Is aluminum porus when rolled that thin, or is the OEM clear coat porus?. Since coke cans don't leak, and normal clear coat doesn't bubble on the rest of the car, surly BMW have just used a shit form of clear coat.