Clutch Slur and in at Elms

[cps]

Originally Posted by Bounce

They do it incase the clutch is worn and doesn't come under warranty,but he won't pay when they find the clutch isn't worn

Yes thats what I asked, and as said, in case it is worn.., they said 2k if a clutch replacement through clutch wear.. But hoping it won't be just that.. spoke to Service this morning and they were going to drop the box today. not heard anything yet.., i discussed the parts mentioned by @cantfind1, so they were going to look. no news yet.. they seemed to understand my concerns though.. paying to guess and replacing stuff that didn't fix it. They have been helpful so far which is great.


could be worse, they mentioned they had 2 CSL's in there for 18 months waiting for cam shafts.. apparently said parts are coming through though..

[karbonkid]

Ok, well hopefully covered by warranty but whilst at this stage for anyone I would replace all the following parts:

Gearbox
25112229793 X1 - Actuator rod joint
23411466134 X1 - Dowel Pin

23317506947 X1 - Repair Kit (Spring 1)

23311228397 X1 - Spring (Spring 2)
23317545771 X1 - Blind plug
23311282539 X1 - Locking pin

23311228405 X1 - Spring (Spring 3)
07119986280 X1 - Ball

Clutch
21511223302 X1 - Release fork
21511223328 X1 - Ball pin
21517570284 X1 - Spring pin
23117512866 X1 - Guild bush
23121228493 X1 - Shaft seal
11211720310 X1 - Grooved bearing
23317545769 X4 - Hex bolt

Actuator Rod joint - they would normally clean up and put back on. For +/- £25 it's worth replacing along with a new Dowel pin as well as these are prone to seize up. This joint ties the actuator rod to gearbox selector rod and if seized can cause failure whilst trying to do the adaption in SMG on GT1/ INPA and with the very little movement it needs it's easy to become seized.

Whilst gearbox is dropped, replace all compression springs & related parts. All are little money (like £3 for spring along) except 23317506947 (Spring 1) which is circa £100 as it comes as a kit and the parts can't be purchased individually. I believe one of the springs has also been replaced with a larger diameter coil to the originals.

Cluth parts already mentioned by cantfind1. Replace these too.

[cps]

Originally Posted by karbonkid

Ok, well hopefully covered by warranty but whilst at this stage for anyone I would replace all the following parts:

Gearbox
25112229793 X1 - Actuator rod joint
23411466134 X1 - Dowel Pin

23317506947 X1 - Repair Kit (Spring 1)

23311228397 X1 - Spring (Spring 2)
23317545771 X1 - Blind plug
23311282539 X1 - Locking pin

23311228405 X1 - Spring (Spring 3)
07119986280 X1 - Ball

Clutch
21511223302 X1 - Release fork
21511223328 X1 - Ball pin
21517570284 X1 - Spring pin
23117512866 X1 - Guild bush
23121228493 X1 - Shaft seal
11211720310 X1 - Grooved bearing
23317545769 X4 - Hex bolt

Actuator Rod joint - they would normally clean up and put back on. For +/- £25 it's worth replacing along with a new Dowel pin as well as these are prone to seize up. This joint ties the actuator rod to gearbox selector rod and if seized can cause failure whilst trying to do the adaption in SMG on GT1/ INPA and with the very little movement it needs it's easy to become seized.

Whilst gearbox is dropped, replace all compression springs & related parts. All are little money (like £3 for spring along) except 23317506947 (Spring 1) which is circa £100 as it comes as a kit and the parts can't be purchased individually. I believe one of the springs has also been replaced with a larger diameter coil to the originals.

Cluth parts already mentioned by cantfind1. Replace these too.

Hi, wow thanks for that list. I'll definitely ask about those. i did ask, them to check the detent springs, but that is very specific. still no news yet..

thanks

chris

[Bounce]

Originally Posted by shimmy

so anyway, you got digital tv down there yet?

Whats Digital tv,tell me more

[cps]

Originally Posted by cantfind1

Gearbox will need to be dropped, may as well change clutch while you are there.

Replace parts 1,2 and 3 in this diagram. Its what the clutch release bearing slides on, it becomes scored and rough and the bearing no longer slides smoothly leading to the clutch dragging or slurring...

This part should be replaced each time the clutch is replaced!

Make sure to replace the bearing as well, should come with the new clutch kit.

Then follow NZ's description. On resetting clutch values/ curve etc.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...19&hg=23&fg=15

Simples

So quick update, thanks to all for advise, Elms have re-built the clutch with replacement parts and parts all under warranty. phew..

unfortunately during the process they have found a subframe crack and mine is past the period of free replacement. So I guess now I need to start a new thread called, has anyone used Redish Automotive for a crack fix? Elms are going to get me a quote on the floor, so i'll see what that comes in at and weigh up the pro's and cons. all part of not driving a boring car and having something interesting.

[estoril]

My boot floor is being repaired right now by Munich Legends (at their cost) using the Redish kit. I did try and convince BMW to do the repair but they were unwilling in spite of a couple of emails to Graeme Grieve directly.

They charge something in the region of £4K for the repair, an independent such as Redish or Simpson will charge in the region of £1500-£2K and from what I have learned they are much better than the BMW repairs as BMW do no strengthening of the boot floor, they simply replace it and inject the resin (in one side only). There have been cases of BMW repaired cars failing a second time...

BTW - I have been told that it is not a good idea to have the resin injected into the floor void as a preventative measure as once done repair is difficult (I was going to say impossible but I doubt that is true), but BMW will not do a repair if the resin has been injected since the resin is flammable....

[cps]

Originally Posted by estoril

My boot floor is being repaired right now by Munich Legends (at their cost) using the Redish kit. I did try and convince BMW to do the repair but they were unwilling in spite of a couple of emails to Graeme Grieve directly.

They charge something in the region of £4K for the repair, an independent such as Redish or Simpson will charge in the region of £1500-£2K and from what I have learned they are much better than the BMW repairs as BMW do no strengthening of the boot floor, they simply replace it and inject the resin (in one side only). There have been cases of BMW repaired cars failing a second time...

BTW - I have been told that it is not a good idea to have the resin injected into the floor void as a preventative measure as once done repair is difficult (I was going to say impossible but I doubt that is true), but BMW will not do a repair if the resin has been injected since the resin is flammable....

Oh interesting,

So i was watching the Redish videos last night, I understand the principles and issues with spot weld locations. I have some questions about the bush designs, i'm not sure if a threaded pin with an external circular fixing screws in the boot floor and then the bush goes on that? I was wondering why BMW shaped the bushes the way they did? must have been some reason? and does the flat powerflex bush really give even contact and pressure distribution? I also wondered why you couldn't weld a tube between the boot floor void linking the upper and lower panels?

i was hoping for a 1.5k option more than 4k and replacing the whole boot floor without clamping the whole body in a production jig and then distressing with heat didn't appeal, but i'm probably overthinking it..

BTW how did Munich Legends end up doing your repair for free? guessing this is not a CSL charity service they offer? or can i sign up for that?

[estoril]

Originally Posted by cps

BTW how did Munich Legends end up doing your repair for free? guessing this is not a CSL charity service they offer? or can i sign up for that?

I bought the car from them and the issue was noted prior to purchase....you could sell them your car and buy it back I guess

[glendog74]

Originally Posted by estoril

BMW do no strengthening of the boot floor, they simply replace it and inject the resin (in one side only). There have been cases of BMW repaired cars failing a second time...

Not true. I'm sure its on a car by car basis and the severity of cracking as to how much work is put in by the BMW repairer.

My car received a complete new boot floor and has the welding marks/joint sealer and new paint under the boot carpet to show for it. Specialist Cars of Hitchin completed my repair work and replaced all suspension bushes in the process too

[Rick H]

Yep, mine had a full floor too . . .

.
.
.