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Old 28-05-2011, 11:59 AM   #11
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I thought this would be a thread about cricket
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lawsy View Post
I ran square set up, same as shims. And my tyre wear was perfectly even like his.
-3.5* camber. Approx 15-20 secs out front toe.
-2.5 ish rear camber 15 secs in toe

Hammered on track and for long periods too, perfect even wear front and rear and yes the wider track front does make a difference, front end grip drastically improved.

I wasn't running cups though, I was on a048,s.
Hi,

Here in Cyprus as far as I know the measuring units for toe are like the following:

0.05" per side,
1.2 mm per side,
0.10° per side,
0°6' per side (that reads 0 degrees, 6 minutes)


The most commonly used in alignment garages here is mm.
Can someone explain what “secs” is as per the earlier post, or at least tell me how to convert it to mm?

Thank you
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chief View Post
Hi,

Here in Cyprus as far as I know the measuring units for toe are like the following:

0.05" per side,
1.2 mm per side,
0.10° per side,
0°6' per side (that reads 0 degrees, 6 minutes)

The most commonly used in alignment garages here is mm.
Can someone explain what “secs” is as per the earlier post, or at least tell me how to convert it to mm?

Thank you
1mm on a 19" wheel equates roughly to 8 minutes. Sorry 6.5 mins

Seconds, they probably mean minutes, as 60 mins in a degree and 60 secs in a min, an un-noticable amount of adjustment.

Conversions below.

http://members.roadfly.com/kef/Camber_Toe_Math.pdf

Last edited by O'Neill; 11-03-2012 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:22 PM   #14
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I believe they probably means mm.
3mm (1/8") toe out, sounds good adjustment for -3.5 camber.

3 mins in a degree, is about 0.5mm. This is not right toe out adjustment for track.

Last edited by chief; 11-03-2012 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 12-03-2012, 11:08 AM   #15
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So in theory swapping the fronts with the rears after each TD would also maintain maximum & even tyre tread on all 4 corners at once, if geo is correct.
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Old 13-03-2012, 03:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billyboysm3 View Post
So in theory swapping the fronts with the rears after each TD would also maintain maximum & even tyre tread on all 4 corners at once, if geo is correct.
Thats what I do, however, my settings arent as above, they used to be but I found that -3.5 camber up front wore the inside edges tooo much, knocked it back to 3.0 and all is good now.
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Old 13-03-2012, 08:56 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuncanR View Post
Thats what I do, however, my settings arent as above, they used to be but I found that -3.5 camber up front wore the inside edges tooo much, knocked it back to 3.0 and all is good now.
Pah! Who cares about tyre wear when they've got a Cup tyre mountain to get through?

Hey, are you phoning me then? Chop chop.
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Old 13-03-2012, 10:51 PM   #18
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I have had a few set ups and have a few on paper
but if I don't want to have 2 set ups what would the best be for road and track

camber
-2.50 front
-1.00 rear

toe
Front ??
Rear ??

Castor
Front ??
Rear??
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Old 13-03-2012, 11:21 PM   #19
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steve you need the top mount in for track at -2.75 front

1.75 for road and forget about the rest of it
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Old 14-03-2012, 12:23 AM   #20
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don't tell the race guys that! I've been told it's a happy medium if you change from road to track and it won't be bang on if you change it how we do. I know road setting is nowhere near enough for track, remember the tyre wear at Cadwell and the fooking around to get it right
I've been told toe has to be right for both track and road, not a happy medium, so what's the half way house
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