Wheel nut torque

[shane@mbtech]

Originally Posted by alexk

BMW was documenting 100NM up to 2 years ago.
Since 2 years ago, all BMWs need to be tightened at 115NM.
For wheels with diameter greater than 17", you need to drive the car 10km or more and then check again.

Over tightening the nuts is a very bad idea for 2 reasons :
1. It might bend the hub of the wheel
2. When the brakes + wheels overheat, the nuts can break
I have seen both ^ in customer's BMWs.

I think you would have to seriously overtighten to cause any of those issues Alex, and our BMW;s use bolts.

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by alexk

BMW was documenting 100NM up to 2 years ago.
Since 2 years ago, all BMWs need to be tightened at 115NM.
For wheels with diameter greater than 17", you need to drive the car 10km or more and then check again.

Over tightening the nuts is a very bad idea for 2 reasons :
1. It might bend the hub of the wheel
2. When the brakes + wheels overheat, the nuts can break
I have seen both ^ in customer's BMWs.

So if BMW got it wring for all these years a good reason not to do what they recommend

[alexk]

Originally Posted by shimmy

So if BMW got it wring for all these years a good reason not to do what they recommend

True, after all what does BMW knows

[rstoughy]

Originally Posted by sailorbaz

Good thread, was looking for info on this last time home. Cheers paul,

I've always gone with the power bar and the "that should be tight enough" feel from my mechanic days but at the last track day i was at there was the distinctive sound of a wheel bolt snapping followed by one very pi$$ed off Escort Cosworth owner.

Got some bright wheels for the 2011 track season so i dont want to loose any of them

[shane@mbtech]

Originally Posted by rstoughy

I've always gone with the power bar and the "that should be tight enough" feel from my mechanic days but at the last track day i was at there was the distinctive sound of a wheel bolt snapping followed by one very pi$$ed off Escort Cosworth owner.

Got some bright wheels for the 2011 track season so i dont want to loose any of them

Ford and rust are like 2 peas in a pod though

To be fair, you must be a twat to snap a wheel bolt when tightening it up. Most common snapped bolts we see are cheap nasty locking bolts that people buy

Most of the lads on here inc myself, never give the wheel bolts time to seize, they are on/off more times than a whores draws.

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by lawsy

Most of the lads on here inc myself, never give the wheel bolts time to seize, they are on/off more times than a whores draws.

I hate to think how many times my rims have been on and off and APs cracked open and pads swapped in the last 4/5 years

[shane@mbtech]

Originally Posted by shimmy

I hate to think how many times my rims have been on and off and APs cracked open and pads swapped in the last 4/5 years

Surprised you have not got a graph with it on

[rstoughy]

Originally Posted by lawsy

Ford and rust are like 2 peas in a pod though

To be fair, you must be a twat to snap a wheel bolt when tightening it up. Most common snapped bolts we see are cheap nasty locking bolts that people buy

Most of the lads on here inc myself, never give the wheel bolts time to seize, they are on/off more times than a whores draws.

Hahaha get what your saying, Wheels were changed from the ones with Cups to the ones with PS2's 2 weeks ago due to the snow coming back. Will be removed again next weekend to replace the broken rear spring in prep for Snett the following weekend where hopefully they will need swapped over again.

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by lawsy

Surprised you have not got a graph with it on

No graph, just a Ven Diagram ...............

[shane@mbtech]

Shimmy you will be pleased to know I will only be running 1.4 bar boost at snett, approx 400bhp, which I felt was what my csl was equal to in evo land.

Having a long chat with my mapper and we are going to play it safe for a couple of trackdays, then turn up the boost.

So theoretically we should have a good battle.