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Old 25-10-2013, 08:44 PM   #21
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This is very interesting, i know people fit a longer one from a std m3 but never knew what was involved, Seeing it like that now im certain there will be other ways of doing this as long as the length is exactly correct then if there is a way of securing the dipstick in place then it could be done with braided pipe onto part on a dipstick. Just an idea.
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Old 25-10-2013, 09:44 PM   #22
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The secret to bending any hollow pipe is to fill the void as any plumber will tell you, they use bending springs for copper pipework.
It's simply a question of what size spring would be required to fit inside the tube, a sink un-blocker springs to mind. no pun intended!

Where's Plumber Vic when we need him?
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Old 25-10-2013, 10:14 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3wheels3 View Post
Agree and as most seem to say dipstick is more accurate than electronic reading 0.8l imo is best so as not to over fill but still be very near max.
Perfect on dipstick I have found is 1.0 on display.
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Old 26-10-2013, 02:42 AM   #24
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Surely if you bend the pipe, without altering the dipstick length, the reading will be either reading too high or too low depending on which way it is bent!
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Old 26-10-2013, 08:40 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmy View Post
Surely if you bend the pipe, without altering the dipstick length, the reading will be either reading too high or too low depending on which way it is bent!
Pay attention Shimmy :

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pip1968 View Post
Obviously there will be a small (tiny) margin of error depending on how much you have to bend the tube ie it will be fractions shorter with more bends or larger bends. The key must also be to ensure that the same amount of dipstick sticks out proud of the end after as before .
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Old 26-10-2013, 11:01 AM   #26
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Just do an instantaneous reading on the computer, procedure is in the manual. 0.9-1.0 is perfect IMO, 1.1 too high as said you don't know if it is overfilled. The reading is in litres over minimum ie if it says 0.5 put 0.5 in and it'll read 1.

Doesn't take 50 miles to update, just read the manual and do a check, the heading is quick measurement under the checking engine oil level in the csl supplement. Only thing is oil needs to be at temp.

I don't believe for a single minute that the difference between 0.9L over min and 1.1L over min is the sole reason for engine failures on track.
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Old 26-10-2013, 11:17 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pip1968 View Post
Pay attention Shimmy :



Pip
But why tiny?

3mm difference could be 0.5litres up or down!
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Old 26-10-2013, 12:16 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike R View Post
For track use Gareth recommends running it at 1.1 to avoid any oil surge issues, so that is what mine runs at. He believes thar running it as low as 0.9 on track is what can cause the pump to pick up and cause oil starvation (which explains this kind of engine failure at 50k miles if used on track like this).
+1 on this. I ran mine at the Ring + GP circuit for two days and made sure that the oil was always 0.8, but it still suffered oil starvation, even though I had been particularly careful (no more than two hot laps, cool down on GP circuit, etc). Since the engine was fixed, I've been religious about running at 1.1.
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Old 26-10-2013, 12:23 PM   #29
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+1 on this. I ran mine at the Ring + GP circuit for two days and made sure that the oil was always 0.8, but it still suffered oil starvation, even though I had been particularly careful (no more than two hot laps, cool down on GP circuit, etc). Since the engine was fixed, I've been religious about running at 1.1.
How on earth do you know when the car suffered oil starvation


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Old 26-10-2013, 12:54 PM   #30
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Quote:
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How on earth do you know when the car suffered oil starvation


.
Precisely what I said to the warranty company.

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