Oil cooler diverter valve

[Mike R]

Originally Posted by shimmy

Lawsy, the heat soak issue will only turn up around 23-24 deg C so you'll have to come south to catch that sort of heat, but very very interested in the results.

The whole airflow issue inc number plate and fans is interesting and worth playing about with (does Alexxgtt run without front plate on track, as he also has experienced the heat soak overheating)

What is this specific heat soak overheating that you talk of and how does it manifest itself?

Would a bonnet with vents help, or is that "cutter" talk LOL?

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by Mike R

What is this specific heat soak overheating that you talk of and how does it manifest itself?

Would a bonnet with vents help, or is that "cutter" talk LOL?

May well do, I have a thread started somewhere (overheating on track)

I think it's related to when the engine gets up to temps on track on a hot day, then at full throttle the heat seems to grow and oil then water climb (water would climb to red) but soon as you come off 100% throttle it drops back.

Tried a few things and sow how thing the a/c cars have restrictive airflow and fans stop running at high speeds.

Maybe vents, lifted bonnet, extra front airflow all help BUT bigger oil rad, bigger water rad, new M stat, new pump clean rad etc all do not.

[Mike R]

Originally Posted by shimmy

May well do, I have a thread started somewhere (overheating on track)

I think it's related to when the engine gets up to temps on track on a hot day, then at full throttle the heat seems to grow and oil then water climb (water would climb to red) but soon as you come off 100% throttle it drops back.

Tried a few things and sow how thing the a/c cars have restrictive airflow and fans stop running at high speeds.

Maybe vents, lifted bonnet, extra front airflow all help BUT bigger oil rad, bigger water rad, new M stat, new pump clean rad etc all do not.

Never had my water go past the mid-way point (and it was very hot at the 'ring in August), so can't comment. Did you check your water pump impeller?

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by Mike R

Never had my water go past the mid-way point (and it was very hot at the 'ring in August), so can't comment. Did you check your water pump impeller?

Nope, I bought a new water pump.

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by Mike R

Never had my water go past the mid-way point (and it was very hot at the 'ring in August), so can't comment. Did you check your water pump impeller?

But you have to drive it hard

[Mike R]

Originally Posted by shimmy

But you have to drive it hard

So I assume you have only experienced this as a passenger in your car with Lawsy driving ?

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by Mike R

So I assume you have only experienced this as a passenger in your car with Lawsy driving ?

Wrong again....Yanto told me

[adem.csl]

Shimmy does your heater blow out constant hot air in those conditions??maybe partially blocked lowering water circulation??
I haven't had any overheating issues on track.
Is your a/c condenser in good condition not all blocked up with leaves n stuff?that could restrict air flow to your rad!!

[The Gorilla]

Hi,

Shimmy- in regard to the ''running hot'' which
if I am correct was at Spa ? where cars with
almost identical set ups, in respect of Cooling,
was that some Cars after several laps and with
ambient Air Temps being above 28c ?after
several laps with high engine loads, some
cars were OK on water temp, although they
were experincing higher oil temps, but your
car and a few others ? were seeing very high
water temps and having to lift, ie reduce load
to cool engine water temps down.

I think there was another thread where somebody
was running their Heater on full to try and
pull temps back down

For sure front number plate removed, AC Rad etc
removed could all assist and might make a few degrees
difference to overall coolant temps but not the
differincies you talk about.

From what you have said I would guess that there was
a good 10 maybe 15 degree difference in coolant temps
between almost identical cars [cooling set up etc].

Based on what you have said and if I have read it
correctly in regard of the overall conditions and symptons,
then this may well be Anti Freeze related.

Example- A pressurised coolant system with 30% anti freeze to 70%
water will start to boil at least 12 degrees lower than the
same coolant system with 50% anti freeze 50% water.
The same coolant system running 70% anti freeze with
30% water, the highest mix you can run, will run well over
15 degrees more, even higher in some conditions.

While nobody knows what percentage Anti freeze the various
Cars were running, it is a fact that its the water system that
cools the thermal store [engine] so the more the water temp
rises the less effective the coolant is being, which can only be
down cooling of the rads etc or the coolant itself.

As the cars mentioned were all almost identical with same water Rad,
oil rads, std hoses etc and the fact that number plate and A/C removal
might make a few degrees difference then it does suggest
that the reason may be some cars could well have been running a much higher
concentration of Anti freeze thus running at approx 10 maybe 15
degrees lower on the water Temp Gauge, but still showing similar
higher oil temps.

If it was down to cooling air flow then there would have to
some major differincies between the cars in question
which from all accounts there is not.

Bit off topic but still related, just.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by adem.csl

Shimmy does your heater blow out constant hot air in those conditions??maybe partially blocked lowering water circulation??
I haven't had any overheating issues on track.
Is your a/c condenser in good condition not all blocked up with leaves n stuff?that could restrict air flow to your rad!!

Heater- no don't think so as I remember trying to lower temps by turning heater to FULL HOT , matrix could have been an issue but surely that would have an effect at all speeds (like many possible causes)

I had the rad and AC rad take out and cleaned inside and out, when pump, fan, stat and cooont replaced.