Camber & Toe ???????

[Bealo]

Had the Geoset on my car today along with the adjustable rear arms

I told the guy that i wanted -2 for road then for him to mark the clubsports topmounts with the settings for -3 & -3.5 for track work.

He set the road geo -2 & +1.5 toe as advised by Thorney.

When he adjusted the camber for -3 the toe setting went up to 5mm

My question is will this much toe have an adverse affect on track? if so what is my best way forward?

[shane@mbtech]

Originally Posted by Bealo

Had the Geoset on my car today along with the adjustable rear arms

I told the guy that i wanted -2 for road then for him to mark the clubsports topmounts with the settings for -3 & -3.5 for track work.

He set the road geo -2 & +1.5 toe as advised by Thorney.

When he adjusted the camber for -3 the toe setting went up to 5mm

My question is will this much toe have an adverse affect on track? if so what is my best way forward?

It would be best really to set your toe out slightly at -3 negative camber, then when you take it back to -1.5 to -2 your toe will move closer to 0.

[shimmy]

my camber used to be -1.5 and -2.5 on the adjustable top mounts. simpsons set it so that ideally you stay toe in on road and as little toe out as possible on track so my setting on the front used to be

road camber -1.5, toe in 1mm
track camber -2.5, toe out 1/2mm

i think now i have altered my camber the toe is even more pronounced when you change so it is something like##

road camber -2.0, toe in 1mm
track camber -3.0, toe out 1mm

or if not there is at least 2mm movement on the toe

[s.mac]

can you really tell the difference when you put it to say -2.5 for track from -1.5 ??

I am getting my new suspension fitted next week with adjustable front and rear top mounts. I am going to get a road and track setting marked on them but will I notice any difference, I'm not a quick driver ......

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by s.mac

can you really tell the difference when you put it to say -2.5 for track from -1.5 ??

I am getting my new suspension fitted next week with adjustable front and rear top mounts. I am going to get a road and track setting marked on them but will I notice any difference, I'm not a quick driver ......

you notice -1.5 to -2.5 easily

i even could tell the difference -2.5 to -3.0 and really surprised by that.

Certainly will tell the difference with tyre wear!

[The Gorilla]

Hi,

With about 30 secs toe out on the front
with 3.5 degrees negative camber, you want around
20 secs toe in on the rear.

When you then set the front camber back to
say 2.0 degrees negative front your toe will
go to around 30/45 secs toe in.

This will not make for good handling.

As a compromise, you could run your rear at
neuteral toe with 1 degree negative, and the front
at just on toe out with 2 degrees negative camber
and leave it at that for Road and Track.

Fronts tyres might scrub a fraction, but
its a workable compromise for road and track.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

[shane@mbtech]

Originally Posted by The Gorilla

Hi,

With about 30 secs toe out on the front
with 3.5 degrees negative camber, you want around
20 secs toe in on the rear.

When you then set the front camber back to
say 2.0 degrees negative front your toe will
go to around 30/45 secs toe in.

This will not make for good handling.

As a compromise, you could run your rear at
neuteral toe with 1 degree negative, and the front
at just on toe out with 2 degrees negative camber
and leave it at that for Road and Track.

Fronts tyres might scrub a fraction, but
its a workable compromise for road and track.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

Would that set up not promote quick turn in but with tendancy to oversteer too much?

[NZ_M3]

Originally Posted by The Gorilla

Hi,

With about 30 secs toe out on the front
with 3.5 degrees negative camber, you want around
20 secs toe in on the rear.

When you then set the front camber back to
say 2.0 degrees negative front your toe will
go to around 30/45 secs toe in.

This will not make for good handling.

As a compromise, you could run your rear at
neuteral toe with 1 degree negative, and the front
at just on toe out with 2 degrees negative camber
and leave it at that for Road and Track.

Fronts tyres might scrub a fraction, but
its a workable compromise for road and track.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

That's pretty much bang on what I used to run except I run about -1.5 in the rear for better mid corner traction and a bit more toe out the front (actually I tried various toe out setting for the front) - perfect on the track, but absolutely terrible on the road (I was forever adjusting the bloody steering just to go straight).

I've now gone back to a slight toe in in the rear and almost neutral toe in the front just to bring back a bit of understeer in the car for corner entry - brilliant on the road, but I have to say it'll probably handle like crap on the track

Originally Posted by lawsy

Would that set up not promote quick turn in but with tendancy to oversteer too much?

Should be okay with the toe in for the rear - I've run similar setting before (without the extreme camber) and the car was pretty neutral and balanced.

Of course we are all running different heights and have different set ups in terms of shocks and springs - so what works for one person won't necessarily work for another - and that's ignoring driving style!! (for eg. I personally don't mind having a very slight corner entry understeer so long as my corner exit stability is increased).

[The Gorilla]

Hi,

As NZ_M3 said, its what you prefer and how you
drive.

And of course what your car is actually running
suspension wise.

I like oversteer on entry, on the basis
that as the car progresses more into
the corner the handling goes more neuteral
for exit.

The compromise suggestion for the front and rear
settings was on the basis that every
time you alter your settings you
alter the cars corner weights.

So unless your corner weighting the
Car when changing from say 3.5 to 2.5
negative camber, I do not understand
how you can tell this works ?

Regards,


The Gorilla.