What to check, buying my 1st CSl, Help !

[steelyork]

Hi Guys,

I'm putting a deposit on a CSl tomorrow and though the car is low mileage and one owner can any of you give me the low down on what to look out for & check out etc, the first thing will be a HPI report then go from there.

Cheers
Mark

[csl_mba]

Check that the wheels are geniune! there will be a series of numbers around the center hub near the wheel nuts.

Look up the air box funnel (ooer missus ) to see if there is a flap - some remove the flap so that the sound of the intake is apparent all the time, some remove it cos the potentiometer has gone.

RTABS (Rear Trailing Arm Bushes) are prone to go so the backend may feel twitchy.

When you drive home put sport mode on and put the window down :D

[mattCSLnut]

Originally Posted by steelyork

Hi Guys,

I'm putting a deposit on a CSl tomorrow and though the car is low mileage and one owner can any of you give me the low down on what to look out for & check out etc, the first thing will be a HPI report then go from there.

Cheers
Mark

Having just recently bought a CSL myself I would say the most important thing is to really check the car over (thoroughly) yourself if you're mechanically minded or for a small fee have an M-Car specialist do it for U. Obviously when you're spending over £20 K on a second hand car, HPI report is essential, just incase there is outstanding finance or worst still an accident report. Also, go through the history file with a fine tooth comb and make sure there are no missing service stamps and all the usual CSL issues like: rear trailing arm bushes, rear broken springs, etc are OK or have been already addressed. I found the "CSL Buyer Guide" on here quite helpful too as a good reference point.

I originally started my search wanting a CSL with low mileage (about 40K ish) and low owner count (about 2-3 ish) so my search began at the Main Stealer with a 46 K and 3 previous owner SG CSL but that turned out to be the worst one out of the three with patchy history and mileage discrepancy. Car number 2 with 48K and 3 owners, had hidden (very dark) history despite being HPi clear , so after all that, here I am with CSL number 3, 68K with 5 previous owners (two of whom are on here) but in superb mechanical condition with impeccable history file, all CSL issues already addressed and flawless bodywork. This thing has been loved & cherished by it's previous owners and it shows. IMHO, condition is the most important aspect when buying the right car, above all else.
All the best with your CSL purchase.

[shimmy]

check out

HPI and finance, V5, fBMWsh, check with dealers if you can history of car, check for shunts, check paintwork, check if it has BMW Warranty

everything else can be covered on warranty

[steelyork]

Originally Posted by mattCSLnut

Having just recently bought a CSL myself I would say the most important thing is to really check the car over (thoroughly) yourself if you're mechanically minded or for a small fee have an M-Car specialist do it for U. Obviously when you're spending over £20 K on a second hand car, HPI report is essential, just incase there is outstanding finance or worst still an accident report. Also, go through the history file with a fine tooth comb and make sure there are no missing service stamps and all the usual CSL issues like: rear trailing arm bushes, rear broken springs, etc are OK or have been already addressed. I found the "CSL Buyer Guide" on here quite helpful too as a good reference point.

I originally started my search wanting a CSL with low mileage (about 40K ish) and low owner count (about 2-3 ish) so my search began at the Main Stealer with a 46 K and 3 previous owner SG CSL but that turned out to be the worst one out of the three with patchy history and mileage discrepancy. Car number 2 with 48K and 3 owners, had hidden (very dark) history despite being HPi clear , so after all that, here I am with CSL number 3, 68K with 5 previous owners (two of whom are on here) but in superb mechanical condition with impeccable history file, all CSL issues already addressed and flawless bodywork. This thing has been loved & cherished by it's previous owners and it shows. IMHO, condition is the most important aspect when buying the right car, above all else.
All the best with your CSL purchase.

Cheers Matt, re the original wheels do you know the numbers to look for to prove there the magnesium ones, also the rear bushes and springs, i'll upgrade but would like to know what to go for as i know i'm going to have to spend money or do the new OE ones last longer ?

Cheers Mark

[shane@mbtech]

Originally Posted by steelyork

Cheers Matt, re the original wheels do you know the numbers to look for to prove there the magnesium ones, also the rear bushes and springs, i'll upgrade but would like to know what to go for as i know i'm going to have to spend money or do the new OE ones last longer ?

Cheers Mark

The wheels are not magnesium, common mistake, check airbox the flap operation or that it is even there (ask matt)

Best advice is thoroughly research the model and features first, through buyers guide on here, reviews, vids on youtube etc etc, then if you are not a vehicle technician , take someone who is one with you to check it over. Its all very well being armed with a buyers guide but experience is priceless

[derek]

i would recommend an rac inspection as they measure paint depth to check for any body damage, hpi check is included and they will find some thing wrong that will be a start as a bargaining tool. Best £200 i spent as just about bought accident damaged csl as it was quite a distance away

[shimmy]

rear springs and RTAB are consumbles so dont over worry about them for the purchase as not a big cost issue and warranty on them if you ask nicely

You can bet proflex poly bushes but most get OEM BMW with Turner limitinmg kit fitted to stop them flexing too much and splitting in the future. Springs just replace with BMW unless you are going to an a/m suspension

try and get best paint condition you can but remember front respray only £600-800 and MOST cars have been done whatever the seller says

wheels should measure 8.5inches wide at front otherwise it might be CS version which is 8 inches only.

[mattCSLnut]

Originally Posted by lawsy

The wheels are not magnesium, common mistake, check airbox the flap operation or that it is even there (ask matt)

Best advice is thoroughly research the model and features first, through buyers guide on here, reviews, vids on youtube etc etc, then if you are not a vehicle technician , take someone who is one with you to check it over. Its all very well being armed with a buyers guide but experience is priceless

Do I hear an ECHO, Echo, echo ?

[shane@mbtech]

Originally Posted by mattCSLnut

Do I hear an ECHO, Echo, echo ?

Are the wheels hollow, is that what you mean, and stop SHOUTING.

Should you not have typed ECHO, ECHO, ECHO?