my M3 CSL

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by Graham

I meant when driving along you'll get a lot more airflow to the front of the road

But it is the sitting in traffic bit that worries me

depends how that air gets channelled and directed as well.

[alexk]

Not sure what to write first really.
I will try to summarize.

I changed the alternator. The voltage regulator that I had changed didn't help and replacing the whole unit was necessary.

I found an AC Schnitzer rear strut brace. It's fantastic because you can take it easily out if you want to fit something big. Used one, not cheap but it's what I was looking for all these years.

I ended up replacing:
- Radiator. Only 60% of the radiator was working... so ladies and gentlemen replace your old radiators.
- Thermostat. I put a new one. Feck it, warranty it is
- Water pump. Nothing was wrong with the old one apart from a very small play on the bushing. So prefered to bin it before it dies on it's own.
- Water hoses. Old ones were ok, but better safe than sorry. Would hate to have a blown water hose in the middle of nowhere.
- Fan clutch. Mine was fecked (again). Warranty again.

Before doing all the above I had some very strange overheating occurences.
The car would overheat (if you call 96C overheating) when on camber (the right side higher than the left).
I had overheating only on one specific place of the autobahn, while moving very slowly or stopped due to traffic. After days and days wondering why the car overheats only there, trying to understand what is special, I noticed I am sitting on a camber.
What is more funny is that I replicated the issue at home !
Car flat on the garage idling. No issue.
Jack it up from the right side and the temperature rose.
Take it down, temperature goes down.
I think it had to do with the clutch fan and whether it's engaging or not.

After replacing all the above, I saw only once the same occurence on the same spot of the autobahn.
The only things that would explain this are the following
- cracked gasket or cylinderhead which is creating pressure in the cooling system
- the water temp sensor is fecked OR the groundings of the engine have an issue

I am a very curious individual therefore I ordered a leak down tester tool.
Today I did a leak down test on the engine twice, just to verify the results.
Fortunately, the engine is in perfect condition and I have no issue in the cylinderhead or gasket.

What I will replace now is the water temp sensor.
I am pretty sure there is a problem.


Other news.

I will be selling my AP Racing kit and the Ohlins suspension and going to purchase a KW clubsport suspension and the Brembo GT brake kit (380mm / 6 piston front).
The reason is the ultra strict Swiss MOT

[Graham]

That is very strange.

Also how do you know only 60% of the radiator was working and what do you think the reason for this is?

[Loaded]

Originally Posted by alexk

Other news.

I will be selling my AP Racing kit and the Ohlins suspension and going to purchase a KW clubsport suspension and the Brembo GT brake kit (380mm / 6 piston front).
The reason is the ultra strict Swiss MOT

Alex can you explain me with a few words the Swiss MOT?

Thank you

[alexk]

Originally Posted by Loaded

Alex can you explain me with a few words the Swiss MOT?

Thank you

You don't want to have to do anything with them.-

[chris83d]

Stunning car mate!

[alexk]

Originally Posted by Graham

That is very strange.

Also how do you know only 60% of the radiator was working and what do you think the reason for this is?

Hi Graham.

As suggested by Monkey, I took the radiator out and drained it.
Then I boiled some water and with the radiator on the floor I filled it up with the hot water.
Cold spots are visible then and you can feel with your hand if all the surface is hot or if there any cold spots.
Mine had a 40% space that was completely cold, which indicates that the water was not flowing there.
It's down to age really. A 10 year old radiator will wear out.

[alexk]

So a small update.

The AP Racing kit had to removed from the car, as well as the fantastic Ohlins TTX suspension.
So the OEM brakes are back, along with some Goodridge brake lines and Mintex M1144 pads.
I used ATE racing blue brake fluid this time, for a change.
I also changed again the oil and oil filter.
The pads squeal like hell (like the RS29 on OEM calipers), which I somehow knew from my Z3 coupe.

I also bought a KW clubsport suspension.
Nice bit of kit and I like the way it drives.
Lacks a bit in damping compared to the Ohlins, but it's fully homologated for Switzerland

Here a photo of the kit.


And a photo of the car now.
I lowered it one more cm, so it's 2 cm lower than OEM now.


I will test it at the track next Saturday.
Looking forward to it.
Let's place bets if the brakes won't be able to cope

[Mark CSL]

Looking Great ALEX

[0-60Motorsports]

Looks amazing Alex