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Old 27-03-2009, 12:55 PM   #21
Hazy
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tomorrow at Anglesey should be interesting comparison....

I have gone from a bog standard CSL, I have had the geo altered to run 2 deg of negative camber front and rear ( its a pig in a straight line over 120mph now), fitted Ferodo DS3000 full race pads (they fq your discs and black the wheels instanly, but boy do they stop), DOT 5 point summat race fluid and a fresh set of cups instead of Goodyear F1's. Looking forward to the transformation.

Me and Radders always run at a similar pace, so we can evaluate his AP's against my standard brakes too.....report and pics to follow Saturday night

Have I gone the right route with the geo???
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Old 27-03-2009, 03:31 PM   #22
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Andy, the brakes (OEM / AP's / Alcons) will only ever stop you as quick as the car can keep on gripping the road. Theoretically you should be able to lock up OEM brakes, so APs/ Alcons cant stop you any quicker than that. Ya follow? BBK's are designed to resist fade for longer, so you can keep hammering and they stay nice and sharp.

As SOAB covered, side by side OEM vs APs - assuming all else is same ie tyres / weight / conditions - braking from say 100mph as hard as you can - once, should stop in the same time / distance. Do this 20 times in a row, and the AP's will be stopping quicker.

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Have I gone the right route with the geo???
What did you do about toe? Im toe'd in rear, toe'd out front. It sucks on the road though.
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Old 27-03-2009, 03:48 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Andy, the brakes (OEM / AP's / Alcons) will only ever stop you as quick as the car can keep on gripping the road. Theoretically you should be able to lock up OEM brakes, so APs/ Alcons cant stop you any quicker than that. Ya follow? BBK's are designed to resist fade for longer, so you can keep hammering and they stay nice and sharp.

As SOAB covered, side by side OEM vs APs - assuming all else is same ie tyres / weight / conditions - braking from say 100mph as hard as you can - once, should stop in the same time / distance. Do this 20 times in a row, and the AP's will be stopping quicker.



What did you do about toe? Im toe'd in rear, toe'd out front. It sucks on the road though.
Not sure mate, will scan the set up details sheet later, have a lok and tell me what you think. BTW, what pressures for the track cold/hot for Cups??
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Old 27-03-2009, 03:55 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Not sure mate, will scan the set up details sheet later, have a lok and tell me what you think. BTW, what pressures for the track cold/hot for Cups??
Im no expert, but mine is a fast road geometry setup from Thorney.

Most run 32pun Hot. Which is about 26 cold.
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Old 27-03-2009, 03:56 PM   #25
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32 hot so about 24-26 cold IME.
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Old 27-03-2009, 03:56 PM   #26
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Bryce beat me to it
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Old 27-03-2009, 03:58 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Im no expert, but mine is a fast road geometry setup from Thorney.

Most run 32pun Hot. Which is about 26 cold.
Hmm....thats quite low innit????
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Old 27-03-2009, 05:50 PM   #28
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They get very hot though! Just run them to track at 32 cold, then let them down when ya get there.
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Old 27-03-2009, 06:31 PM   #29
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Yip i run cups at knockhill 32psi cold to drive there and down to 27psi before the first session then check them after some hot laps and 32psi hot is just right
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Old 27-03-2009, 07:12 PM   #30
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Hi all, just back from work so have only seen thread now. As Andy said I did seem to be able to brake much later than a lot of people yesterday (including that lovely blue Exige). They do fill you with confidence and and you are much more likely to brake later and later. Admittedly I am very hard on brakes. The tyres I had on were the conti's, I never hear anyone talking about them on forums but I think they were fantastic. If what ye are saying is correct about the addition of the cups then I REALLY can't wait for CC.

To be fair Andy wasn't the only one that was suprised at how late you could brake with the AP's.

AP's do fade as well btw as I found out.

Anyone know of any nice 5 bed close to Llandow for sale

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