Ordered Intrax 1K2 - questions/suggestions

[conleth m3]

Originally Posted by Porker

I have specifically requested trackday/ring springs/settings so I'm assuming I will get the 120/60 springs.

i requested this from henk and got 100/50 springs which i found fantastic. i ran them as shimmy says half way (20/25) for road. i softened them off by 5 clicks for the 'ring though rather than hardened them up from road settlings. just felt better for me over the kerbs/bumps of the nordschleife. but then for smoother circuits like donny/spa would harden them 5-7 clicks from midway both front + rear. suppose only had them on the car for 6 months before i sold the csl so didnt have as much time to play with the settings as others

maybe i'm just a gayer and prefer it softer

mine still for sale though, not actually tried to sell them to be honest. still got the idea of a cheap e46m3 stripped/caged and with all the bits i took of my csl as a trackslag to complement the gt3

[northernjim]

Originally Posted by conleth m3

maybe i'm just a gayer and prefer it softer

mine still for sale though, not actually tried to sell them to be honest. still got the idea of a cheap e46m3 stripped/caged and with all the bits i took of my csl as a trackslag to complement the gt3

Do it

[Porker]

Given the Intrax will come with camberplates as well, is there a preferred geo setup for fast road/Nordschleife useage in combination with Intrax?

Currently running switched top-mounts front which gives about -2.5deg camber, I was quite happy with this setup. Is there an advantage to be head in increasing front negative camber more still?

[shimmy]

Originally Posted by Porker

Given the Intrax will come with camberplates as well, is there a preferred geo setup for fast road/Nordschleife useage in combination with Intrax?

Currently running switched top-mounts front which gives about -2.5deg camber, I was quite happy with this setup. Is there an advantage to be head in increasing front negative camber more still?

There are circuits that ideally require -3.0 or even -3.5 camber to get best grip and also tyre wear more evently. Not sure about the Ring but I guess -2.5 on Cups will probably be fine.

[Porker]

Originally Posted by shimmy

There are circuits that ideally require -3.0 or even -3.5 camber to get best grip and also tyre wear more evently. Not sure about the Ring but I guess -2.5 on Cups will probably be fine.

Well currently running Supersports but will be switching to Cups next season.

Regarding toe-in/out, any suggestions?

[Porker]

Collected the car today, running -10F/-15R, with the roads being wet today I found that setup to be a little bit 'spiky', will probably move to -15F/-20R and see from there.

Body control has improved immensely over the PSS10 setup. Though I was hoping the 'ticking' noise on surface imperfections coming from the rear (left and right) would be cured with the new dampers. Is this something affecting all uniball'd cars? (My PSS10 was also equipped with uniball top-mounts) Note that my car is stripped and caged, it might pass more noises on to the driver than a regular car.

Further impressions will follow!

[DuncanR]

Do not go the Titanium route steel all the way ....
One of my springs, not sure what the other one is but it hurts my ass over a bump 1

[83SY]

What made you go for steel???

[DuncanR]

Originally Posted by 83SY

What made you go for steel???

Had problems with the Titanium ones that were fitted in about 2007 ?? and as I track mine, and its caged etc. the steel options are stronger IN THIS APPLICATION, Titanium is only stronger when considering it in a strength/weight ratio. Titanium is also more brittle than good old steel !

[83SY]

I was advised not to go for the steel one because they rust?
i dont know + steel stronger than Titan???