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Old 01-02-2014, 10:14 PM   #11
shane@mbtech
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Possibly overlooked shim, but the water boiling point is raised when under pressure, the pressure is contained by the expansion tank cap. If this cap is not doing it's job 100% it could have an effect.

Ps just go 50-50?
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:57 AM   #12
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And to add to the above. Overfill the expansion tank, then it will reduce the boiling point. This too has an effect on cooling efficiency.
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:21 AM   #13
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distilled water only agreed. You dont need a mix if you are on top of it.

what about yr rad? Is the flow working right? Is it original one?

i had an e30 that would always run a bit hot. Changed rad and it was a lot better. Checked everything including the gauge.

BMs are normally good on temps unless sth is not quite right.

what about oil temps? A less than optimal oil cooler can add heat to the engine.
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Das Chin View Post
distilled water only agreed. You dont need a mix if you are on top of it.

what about yr rad? Is the flow working right? Is it original one?

i had an e30 that would always run a bit hot. Changed rad and it was a lot better. Checked everything including the gauge.

BMs are normally good on temps unless sth is not quite right.

what about oil temps? A less than optimal oil cooler can add heat to the engine.

It doesn't generally run hot. Cooler is newish
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Old 02-02-2014, 01:13 PM   #15
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Used wetter in the race car and I found it did make a difference. If your coolant system is old and has had hard water used in it, you can get limescale deposits inside the block, rad and pipes. If the engine is getting close to boiling point, you can get small air bubbles manifest on the scale deposits, can be referred to as "kettling". Just watch the inside of a scaled kettle come to the boil, you can see it happening. This thin layer of bubbles then acts as an insulating layer which, of course, makes it more difficult to disperse the heat from the water - it's the start of the visicious circle that results in HG failure ( if you keep the engine on load).

It may be worth filling your entire coolant system with an engine friendly de scaler and letting it soak for a period of time, and then look at the state of the water that comes out.

I did this on an knackered old car a few years back with a powerful household de scaler, ironically the brand name is HG. I have no idea if this product will have an adverse affect other parts inside the system - so please do your homework before you try anything on your CSL. As I said, I did it on an old knacker, so I didn't care if it shagged the car. A £30k car is something you need to be sure about first.

Typically, over heating isn't down to one issue, it's usually the sum of many issues that all occur at the same time, i.e. high ambient, slow speed / high load circuit, old rad, poor coolant, old water pump etc etc, individually they probably wouldn't result in an overheat, but if they all occur together- it's the straw that breaks the camels back.
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Old 02-02-2014, 05:33 PM   #16
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http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motors...engine-coolant
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