23-08-2011, 01:25 PM | #11 | ||
S6, Sport On, Traction Off
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
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Quote:
Stop, switch off car, re start. All still illuminated until I started to move upon which they all went out except the SMG which would stay yellow until around 35 - 40mph at which point it would also go out. All fine until i started to "push" the car again where that dreaded beep would sound and i had a disco on the dash again Quote:
Do the reset thingie every time I swap my wheels so can rule that out. Brake fluid is also ok as that was checked due to that light coming on Car is booked in at the end of the week so we shall see what sort of report comes back ..... digest is something to do with food aint it |
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23-08-2011, 10:11 PM | #12 | |
CSL Register Uber-poster!
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Quote:
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Cha'mone Mother F**ker! |
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23-08-2011, 10:52 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Cornwall
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I also had these lights on Paul,my problem was also a wheel speed sensor[ABS].I think you also get the same dash lights on with a steering angle sensor fault.
Last edited by Bounce; 23-08-2011 at 11:02 PM. |
23-08-2011, 11:12 PM | #14 |
S6, Sport On, Traction Off
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 1,947
Casino cash: $25397 |
Ahh cool, nice to see it's not that an unusual problem
Both Dunc and Shane said over in Germany that it was probably that. Car can run for days without any issue then all of a sudden.......BEEEEP Car still run fine but it seemed to slow the gear change down a bit. That was until last week where it took a turn for the worse and the DSC started playing up as well Will see what the stealers say |
24-08-2011, 12:44 AM | #15 |
Wonky 'L' after Washing
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Belfast
Posts: 8
Casino cash: $888 |
To be honest, all or any of these warning lights can illuminate for the most bizarre reasons.
I've seen one with the SMG, DTC, ABS & RDC warnings all illuminated and this was caused by a faulty contact in a door lock causing the car to think the driver's door was being opened when driven. Seems strange that your DSC warning is illuminated but the system is still working going by the original post (?). Anyway, your trip to the dealer will hopefully shed some light, hope it's something simple like a wheel speed sensor (ie the cheapest fix). |
21-07-2012, 04:36 PM | #16 |
Mode S1 - Starting Out
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 29
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My CSL dash lit up like a christmas tree today and looks to be a wheel speed sensor problem. However, the engine reved by itself though the car was not accelerating - quite scary. Shifted to N to stop the engine from redlining. Any ideas?
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21-07-2012, 09:04 PM | #17 |
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The engine revved with no pressure on accelerator ?
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23-07-2012, 10:30 AM | #18 |
S5, Sport Off, DSC M-track
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 740
Casino cash: $14401 |
Hi,
Quote- ''However, the engine reved by itself though the car was not accelerating - quite scary.........'' Sounds like you could have an issue with the DBW [Drive by Wire]. The Stepper Motor to the Throttle Bodies must be getting a signal even though the Throttle pedal [ potentiometer] is not registering pedal movement. Diagnostics is the only way to try and trace any fault. Regards, The Gorilla. |
23-07-2012, 06:30 PM | #19 |
S5, Sport Off, DSC M-track
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 675
Casino cash: $6490 |
agree.....there are 4 TPS on CSL...one in accelerator pedal, one in engine bay on front above oil filter, one under idle control valve and one on the flap motor...ones in the engine bay are most likely to go due to temp extremes.....
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23-07-2012, 08:48 PM | #20 |
Driving it like I nicked it
Join Date: Sep 2008
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The throttle pedal has 2 outputs which describe throttle pedal position, one goes from 0% high volts to 100% low volts, and the other from 0% low volts to 100% being high volts, the sensor on the motor and the throttle rail itself perform the task of current position feedback and again one goes high to low and the other goes low to high. The sensor on the flap doesn't perform a function of either position demand or current position feedback in the closed loop DBW system, simply tells the ECU the position of the flap.
At all times both demand signals (pedal) should read within a few percent of each other, and likewise both feedback signals should read within a few percent of each other, the ECU drives the motor using PWM based on the aim error (difference between desired position - calculated in ECU based on lots of inputs including throttle position - and the feedback position). If either the position demand or feedback position fail their checks (the sensors for that part deviate from each other by too much) then limp home or similar should activated, there is no way a throttle should get pinned open by a failed sensor, think of the law suits and all the stories that would be all over the web of e46s suddenly going WOT on track and killing people. Also if I may be so bold, how can a car be in gear and rev without accelerating unless a driveline component has failed meaning no drive, and why would putting it in neutral stop it revving if the ECU was driving the motor to WOT, unless the poster meant he was stationary and the lower 6k ish rev limiter kicked in when it was moved to neutral? Need more info...
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Nathan Last edited by _Nathan_; 23-07-2012 at 09:13 PM. |
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