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Old 18-03-2010, 11:09 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by mickaldo View Post
seems to work for a while then goes back to sluring did in my case after half a day at oulton park.

ok mate bollox im just gunna go in and pay for it!

then no more launch controls after that i only got to do it once!
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Old 19-03-2010, 09:05 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by mpower! View Post
ok mate bollox im just gunna go in and pay for it!

then no more launch controls after that i only got to do it once!
Unless you're getting constant clutch-slip (eg, from standstill) then I wouldn't bother paying for it to be replaced! It'll only start again after a while....
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Old 19-03-2010, 10:56 AM   #73
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Elliot

what happened to your trials in the end

did you get to a conclusion?
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Old 19-03-2010, 11:12 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by shimmy View Post
Elliot

what happened to your trials in the end

did you get to a conclusion?
Nah I just lost interest It's in on tuesday for another fault so I'll get them to reteach it while it's in.
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Old 19-03-2010, 01:16 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by The Gorilla View Post
Hi

Hazy- F1 Clutch and sofware in a 355 is
about as crude as it gets, about twice as
slow as SMG 11.

Well known in the Ferrari world to gobble up clutches.

F1 Clutch in my first 360 F1 was gone in around
5500 miles from new.

Clutch in my second 360 F1, was gone in just
over 6,000 miles.

Third 360 was a Manual, clutch did 15,000 miles
plus and car was then sold.

Mates 360 F1 purchased with 5000 miles,
sold to HR Owen with 12,300 miles, at agreed
price, when arriving to deliver for payment
Diagnostic test shows clutch is 93 % worn.

Records show that it was its second clutch.

Its just like the 360 front wishbone bushes that always
seem to fail after about 4/5000 miles of hard use, and
you had to have complete arms both sides at
750.00 aside + Labour as Ferrari would not sell just the
bush/bearing, they have now changed their policy on
this.

2k for front wishbone bushes after 4/5k miles with a
clutch thrown in is not exactly what you expect.

On BMW M3 SMG 11 Launch control, there is
an article somewhere that confirms that with
10 launch starts then the clutch can be something
like 75/80 worn, it also mentions that 'slack'
or 'play' can result in the drivetrain as
a result of these lauanches etc.

Regards,

The Gorilla.
18 months 12000 miles in my 355F1, didnt have a clutch, F1 was great too but NOT it "sport" mode
12 months 10000 miles in my 360F1, no clutch, and the previous owners were mates of mine, no clutches
8 months 7000 miles 360 spider F1, no clutch, my best mate still owns the car its on 27000, no clutch (from new)
3 years, 18500 miles 360 Strad, no clutch from new
Six mates who all have Strads (we all brought them within 3 months) mileages vary, not one clutch between us.

its all down to the driver mate, I have a truck driver who does a clutch every 6-9 months, other driver in the same truck is still on the original clutch.
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Old 19-03-2010, 02:20 PM   #76
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Hi,

Hazy- yes, agree, there are drivers and
then there are drivers.

Regards,

The Gorilla.
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Old 21-03-2010, 08:11 PM   #77
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Ok, so I might have fixed mine today without spending a penny. Previous post here http://www.cslregister.com/forum/sho...4987#post44987

Just to make it clear, I know I don't have a CSL but my issue is identical.
I drove another M3 for a couple of hours yesterday and it reminded me how bad mine had become, even though that one was slurring also at 35k miles but I know its owner lifts...

I've reset it again using DIS, which I have already done fully and correctly three times previous to no affect, except this time I did it with the car stony cold. It was 7 degrees in the garage and the car hasn't been started in 3 days. Previous resets had been with the car warm and one time red hot. I'm no engineer but I'd started to wonder about expansion of parts when hot etc..desperation in all honesty because I'm sick of the car like this.

Full teach in, Clutch Valve Values, Gearbox Adaption (where it finds the gate and all 7 cogs), clutch bite point and finally some acceleration sensor. Then reset the fault code it creates in the SMG DME.

I've driven in 100 miles this afternoon, turned it off n on a few times and let it sit for 2 hours. All in all it is back to normal, I cannot make it slur at all on 3rd to 4th now, whereas before you couldn't stop it. The bang is not quite as big as I have felt but there is absolutely no slur and gear engagement seems to be much quicker. I kept finding myself in a small hole before, now you tell it to change and it is in and home straight away, even on those iffy low rev part throttle shifts.

If its still like this in a weeks time then I'll be happy but this is a big leap over previous attempts which were shit right out of the box
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Old 21-03-2010, 08:35 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magsy View Post
Ok, so I might have fixed mine today without spending a penny. Previous post here http://www.cslregister.com/forum/sho...4987#post44987

Just to make it clear, I know I don't have a CSL but my issue is identical.
I drove another M3 for a couple of hours yesterday and it reminded me how bad mine had become, even though that one was slurring also at 35k miles but I know its owner lifts...

I've reset it again using DIS, which I have already done fully and correctly three times previous to no affect, except this time I did it with the car stony cold. It was 7 degrees in the garage and the car hasn't been started in 3 days. Previous resets had been with the car warm and one time red hot. I'm no engineer but I'd started to wonder about expansion of parts when hot etc..desperation in all honesty because I'm sick of the car like this.

Full teach in, Clutch Valve Values, Gearbox Adaption (where it finds the gate and all 7 cogs), clutch bite point and finally some acceleration sensor. Then reset the fault code it creates in the SMG DME.

I've driven in 100 miles this afternoon, turned it off n on a few times and let it sit for 2 hours. All in all it is back to normal, I cannot make it slur at all on 3rd to 4th now, whereas before you couldn't stop it. The bang is not quite as big as I have felt but there is absolutely no slur and gear engagement seems to be much quicker. I kept finding myself in a small hole before, now you tell it to change and it is in and home straight away, even on those iffy low rev part throttle shifts.

If its still like this in a weeks time then I'll be happy but this is a big leap over previous attempts which were shit right out of the box


hello mate what is the DIS reset and how do you do it??

i am in the exact same position that you are in mate my car is a 03 plate with 32k on the clock and having exact same problems as your first thread!
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Old 23-03-2010, 01:48 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magsy View Post
=

I've reset it again using DIS, which I have already done fully and correctly three times previous to no affect, except this time I did it with the car stony cold.
The SMG training manual actually specifies that the car should be warm when the values are reset .. although I tend to agree that the difference is more noticeable when recalibration is done when the car is cold (I've tried both on the Autoenginuity and you definitely get a better result with the car cold).


The DIS is part of the BMW GT1 test system (I believe in this case a bootleg version from ebay )
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Old 29-03-2010, 08:08 PM   #80
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Ok, so it impoved a lot but slowly some very slight slur is returning.

NZ_M3:

There is an option in there called 'reset clutch curves', do you have any knowledge? It appears to say do this when you fit a new clutch after the teach in. I stupidly hit this button many months ago and now I'm wondering about its function.
It would be very dumb but does the car actually have a preset, fixed, clutch wear curve that is uses to adapt and of course by clearing it there is no way to recover? (I.e I actually need to tell it that my clutch is half worn; impossible to do)

In my case a damn good reason to stay away from eBay
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