[Mike R]

Originally Posted by 911-32

Questions playing on my mind -

1. My tyres are the wrong size being 225/40 and 255/35 4S Michies. I have 4mm at the back and 6mm at the front. They seem to work ok, so I think I just burn another mm or two on the rear and replace for next summer. Any huge objections to using the skinny M3 size tyre for now? And for road use, is there anything worth thinking about other than 4Ss? Like the Contisport6, for example? If I went Cup2s - not much more expensive, so tempting - realistically, how long do they last on the road? Its quite possible I take the CSL on a 3000+ mile trip next summer, so that's a factor. I am using Kumho PS91s on the 987 as I couldn't get Michies in the right size and needed tyres urgently for a trip and they are surprisingly decent in a close-to-Supersport-but-softer kind of way. And I have Supersports on another car and over the years used PZeroCs, Cup1s, 888s D98Js and SO2s on 911s. So those are my reference points.

I'd agree. This time of year, leave those on to wear out, it's not going to hurt. The correct sizes are 235/35 x 19 and 265/30 x 19, which "may" limit your choice, as the rear size is CSL specific. For road use, any good quality brand is going to be okay. I personally would go for 4S or Supersport.

Originally Posted by 911-32

2. I am still not totally convinced on how to drive the SMG. I had one ex-owner message me to say never lift on upshifts. I read other stuff in other places. I know its not one size fits all. It seems mechanically unpleasant to "no lift" at light acceleration and mid revs. But kind of ok at really high revs. Advice?

The SMG is purported to have a certain degree of self learning, so will adapt to the way you drive, so if you start lifting, this may lead to slurring at a later date (which can be remedied with an "Italian tune-up, but might take some time to adapt back). If you want to be more mechanically sympathetic, just slow the shift speed down using the button on the centre console and then you won't get the mechanical thump, whilst still being able to shift without lifting. Just set it to the fastest speed that gives you the mechanical sympathy you feel is best. For reference, you can only access S6 (the fastest shift speed), by turning the traction off, which then reveals a hidden section on the dash like in a video game LOL.

Originally Posted by 911-32

3. Bluetooth phone and music. I want a non-invasive solution to work with the basic business radio/cd. Seems like a Parrot type solution professionally fitted would be the answer. Anyone have experience with that? I don't want to try and get a modern bells and whistles set up, just basic music streaming and hands free.

Message "Mark CSL" (the owner of the site), he specialises in this kind of thing for a living, so would be able to give expert advice.

Originally Posted by 911-32

4. The car feels solid and stiff, but still well damped and not crashie at all on the horrid roads round here. Its described as being fast road set up, so I am going to have to investigate that in due course. As it feels decent, I am not in a hurry, but will look to hunt down fast road alignment settings and KW V3 settings. Its much stiffer and newer feeling (bush firmness/lack of play) than the 987 despite also being on coilovers and being 20k miles newer. Thoughts on set up?

For fast road use, stick with the normal CSL geo settings, you only need to make these more aggressive if you go on track. V3s are a very good road / occasional track use and club sports with the adjustable top mounts give you options for even more aggressive geo.

Originally Posted by 911-32

A couple of other random thoughts. The brakes are awesome. Front pads are yellow, the rears aren't. Whatever they are, they work better than the 987 with CL race pads running over bigger front discs. Ignoring a bit of wear inside (and the expensive carbon bits are all lovely, just other bits have some light wear and tear), the car feels like new thru the primary control surfaces. Very together and very nice underneath me. Can't say I feel very confident just yet to push really hard, but the traction control has caught my deliberate provocation so far, so the safety net feels reassuring.

I'm guessing these are Pagid RS 29s by the sound of it (an exceptional pad), so no wonder you like these . MDM mode (accessed by the steering wheel button) will give you a bit more freedom to explore the limits of the car, whilst still having the TC safety net - it's a very good system considering it's age.

Originally Posted by 911-32

Last thought - I read the seats are Pole Positions, but these are not the same as the PPs I had for about 12 years in one of my old 911s. The shell might be the same, but the base padding is much thicker making the sides lower and less supportive, but also easier to enter. Padding feels quite different, making the seat feel quite different. Its also a fraction to high in the car and too upright. Not so far off that I feel like I must "fix" it, but not immediately feeling"right". It's close enough that I forget about it when I am driving. The top of the backrest padding in my car feels a little prominent and gave me a little backache after about 2.5 hrs, so I may be looking to add a little padding somewhere to fix that. Just a teething problem though - I have re-padded every race seat I have owned except one pair of Sparcos that was right from the start.

The seats are actually based on the SPGs, not the Poles. They just have the lower sides (without the harness holes there or in the back of the seat), but this is just for ease of use with normal seat-belts and getting in and out of the car, whilst also giving the ability to provide more support than a standard seat.

The "fixed" position can actually be adjusted in the same way as a normal bucket seat can (on the side mounts), but needs removing to do so (along with the side covers to access the mounting bolts). It only has limited positions though.

Hope this helps .