Carbon Splitters Refurb UPDATE.
 

May be useful for some as an option to consider when the time comes (if you have the patients). Save those pennies! 22,000 each to be exact!
Thought it was time to give the front end a make over as I had a few hours to spare. Giving the front bumper a paint correction inc touch up & lacquer to stone s/chips. The CF splitters were deeply scared and needed some TLC without buying new ones at stealers prices.
I prepped them before epoxy top coating. Sanded using 120 grit down to the 1200, then wet sanding in the same way using all sand grades.

Few pics showing the way...

Before:
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2162/snv33640.jpg

http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/1499/snv33625.jpg

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/410/snv33646.jpg

Using 120 dry/wet grade, rubbing down the OEM top coats down to the CF weave
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/5566/snv33644.jpg

http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/1799/snv33647.jpg

http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/9131/snv33643.jpg

using 240/400/800 & finally 1200 grades
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/2875/snv33645.jpg

Both sanded & prepped. Top one wiped with acetone to get rid of contamination
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/5778/snv33659.jpg

First top coat applied waiting to cure then ready to wet sand & apply more layers
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/5541/snv33664.jpg

To be continued...

Nice one kk, looking good so far. Im tempted to have a shot of that too! What do you use to apply the laquer?

A small tip the lacquer in a tin does not have hardener in it so wont last long
you need a spay gun and some lacquer with hardener :thumbs:

CORRECT!!

Doing it the way you are doing the lacquer you've put on will PEEL straight off the monent it is put onto the bumper (The first time I did this it was also with a lacquer without a hardener mix in it and it peeled straight off the moment it went on the bumper due to flexing of the splitters to fit). You need a hardener mix in the lacquer for it to stick properly.

ALSO

I wouldn't have rubbed it down to bare carbon fiber - the carbon fiber from the factory has a coating on it to stop the lacquer from soaking through it because carbon fiber is porous and you'll end up just laying coats and coats of it onto the splitters and you'll still not get that flat finish (you'll get a weaved look to the finish)

The factory splitters have a maximum of 2 coats on it only - it's very very thin - and this is only achievable with the stop coating on it.

Looks good NZ M3 and some good advice as usual...:thumbs::thumbs:

Its not lacquer that is applied. Its professional epoxy top coat mixed with hardener to the ratio 2/1. The lacquer is optional to do when you have applied the 2 layers. This way is the way its done by BMW. :thumbs:

Are you sure that bmw dont use prepreg carbon put on a mould and then put in an autoclave oven :whistle:

But the way you are doing them is a good solution but the relacquer will do the same job if you dont rub them back to the carbon :thumbs:

When they are manufactured they are made in a mould correct. Using processes of lamination.
Its suggested to rub down the coats before applying new coats, being carful not to break into the carbon but smoothing the surface clear from all stone chips, then building the epoxy resin up and put in the oven to cure. Then wet sand and polish to get rid of high spots. A lacquer is optional at this point.

certainly looks better

hope it lasts:thumbs:

...Updated.

Back from top coat and oven treatment. Final results:

From this:

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2162/snv33640.jpg

To this:

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4312/snv33888.jpg

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7762/snv33889.jpg

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/1416/snv33890.jpg

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/4659/snv33891.jpg

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/573/snv33892.jpg