View Full Version : Something's broken
Jimbo
15-02-2013, 07:42 PM
Sun comes out, what do you do, take Cesil for a run, good idea? not this time!
Decided simply to drive to work, parked in the car park no probs, left work, accelerated with 'medium' gusto and something definitely went wrong!
First off pulling away from a standstill felt like the clutch was trying to kill itself, the most severe 'booms' from the backend ive ever felt. When the gear engaged it was ok, but changing was 'an event' to put it mildly.
Any lift or overrun sounded like something was loose in the clutch or diff. Imagine putting a £1 coin in a washing machine on its own and you be close to the sound.
I decided to limp to the nearest BMW dealership, Sytner in Sheffield and leave it with them. Not ideal but better than trying to drive home i thought. Im thinking the clutch has destroyed itself, i hope to god its not the gearbox, ive all ready had to go to the pub to settle myself.
Happily i guess, Cesil imploded at 2mph in a city centre near a dealers and not on some B road in Derbyshire.
Please send any words of encouragent/sympathy!:smt022
Ps. No warranty, may go back in time and slap myself!
s.mac
15-02-2013, 07:58 PM
Please send any words of encouragent/sympathy!:smt022
sorry to hear
Ps. No warranty, may go back in time and slap myself!
I'd stay in the pub and get pissed, then when they tell you the price... get pissed again :bigcry:
J2LTB
15-02-2013, 07:59 PM
I feel for you :-( I'm without warranty too. The joys of owning a nice car. Hope all gos well.
Sorry to read that...
Hope all goes well. Keep us posted.
sailorbaz
15-02-2013, 08:45 PM
Stay in pub.
Job done.
Hopefully it's nothing serious mate, fingers crossed for you. Keep us posted.
plumber vic
15-02-2013, 10:23 PM
Just don't tell the Mrs £££££
thegingerninja
15-02-2013, 10:27 PM
I'll guess at a broken clutch release arm.
shane@mbtech
15-02-2013, 11:52 PM
Flywheel fucked is my guess.
Mark CSL
16-02-2013, 12:39 AM
That's never a good sound but i am sure a few beers will take your mind off it
:beer:
BMW will give you a hangover with the price so you may as well get blotto :supz:
Neil M
16-02-2013, 10:45 AM
Sounds ominous, Clutch/Flywheel, it could happen to anyone of us, at any time.:bigcry:
Sickening, but fortunately (as you said) it was close to a Dealers, best of luck, let's hope its not to serious.:thumbs:
Jimbo
16-02-2013, 11:04 AM
Thanks for the words of support guys, i am well and truly braced for the call on Monday!
Could be a bad couple of months as i was just building up to booking it in for an inspection 2 and sub frame check...may have to delay that a bit.
Mark CSL
16-02-2013, 11:17 AM
How many miles are on the car ?
Remember and ask if BMW will do a good will on the repair if its got a full service history They sometimes cover the part or Evan it all
and ask about the 4 year + labor discount :thumbs:
Jimbo
16-02-2013, 11:44 AM
82k miles.
Has full history, but bit worried about the inspection intervals. Last inspection was an inspection 1 in Nov 2009, 10k miles ago. Had 2 oil services since then ahead of recommended schedules, but have been trying to work out what intervals they should be in, the car is not telling me its ready yet??
NB - just going to do some gambling...come on goals galore!
Neil M
16-02-2013, 01:35 PM
82k miles.
Has full history, but bit worried about the inspection intervals. Last inspection was an inspection 1 in Nov 2009, 10k miles ago. Had 2 oil services since then ahead of recommended schedules, but have been trying to work out what intervals they should be in, the car is not telling me its ready yet??
NB - just going to do some gambling...come on goals galore!
Service Schedules are related to both mileage and/or age, eg. 15,000mls or Bi -Annual (every 2 Years)
Cycle starts with (in this order):
Oil service (15,000 or 2 years from the initial Inspection Service)
Inspection I
Oil service
Inspection II
Then repeats on a continuous cycle.
Hope this helps:thumbs:
shimmy
16-02-2013, 01:37 PM
82k miles.
Has full history, but bit worried about the inspection intervals. Last inspection was an inspection 1 in Nov 2009, 10k miles ago. Had 2 oil services since then ahead of recommended schedules, but have been trying to work out what intervals they should be in, the car is not telling me its ready yet??
NB - just going to do some gambling...come on goals galore!
Oil service should have been carried out Nov 2011. Have a good check through the paperwork as you might find it hidden away from indie :thumbs:
Jimbo
16-02-2013, 02:44 PM
Cheers for advice, all looks good on service front.
Since inspection 1 in Nov 09, had oil service July 11, which means the Inspection 2 is due July 13, i was planning on having it April time anyway.
Ill just ignore what the car is saying, it still reckons it has 13,000 to go till the inspection, unless the numbers are going to tumble quickly in the next 4 months.
Ill keep Marks advice about asking about goodwill in mind, maybe i can strike a deal if i want an Inspection 2 doing at the same time...?
alexk
16-02-2013, 03:12 PM
Sorry to hear about the problem.
I hope you sort it out quickly.
Jimbo
18-02-2013, 03:38 PM
It turned our to be the diff (Sh*t), but was the bolt that holds the diff to the subframe had come loose and then sheared off, wrecking the thread in the diff. Diff itself is in tact, but the noises were due to the diff actually moving around as the clutch engaged!
After long conversation and options, Sytner, who are being really helpful are putting in a goodwill claim form, as the diff was replaced under warranty in 2008, 30k miles ago, so i reckon either the bolt wasnt fitted correctly or its simply failed. (everyone check their diff bolts)
If the goodwill gets rejected im looking at a bill of over £2.5k! so if anyone has any advice or has experience and wouldnt be averse to a quick chat over the situation im in, it would be gratefully recieved!
Should i ring Elms and see what they think?
J2LTB
18-02-2013, 04:16 PM
Can the casing be repaired/welded ? Or is it beyond repair? I'd go down that route if you end up having to pay out ! Fingers crossed
Jimbo
18-02-2013, 04:29 PM
Yes, i have the option of having the case re-helicoiled, but thought id attempt the correct resolution first. fingers crossed!
alexk
18-02-2013, 04:31 PM
I guess you are talking about the front bolt (?).
BMW has new bolts for the diff cover (2 bolts).
Here you can see the difference, the new bolt is not threaded all the way.
The old bolts would break.
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20121023-00045.jpg
You could look at a damaged E46 M3 diff and then swap the casing.
It's not very difficult to do.
Jimbo
18-02-2013, 04:46 PM
I guess you are talking about the front bolt (?).
BMW has new bolts for the diff cover (2 bolts).
Here you can see the difference, the new bolt is not threaded all the way.
The old bolts would break.
Apparently, of the 3 bolts that hold it in, 2 at the back are ok, its the one 'at the side' that failed. And were threaded half way down, so the new style ones by the looks of it.
BMW have since come back with “ due to the age were unable to offer any financial assistance towards the cost of this repair”
alexk
18-02-2013, 05:47 PM
Apparently, of the 3 bolts that hold it in, 2 at the back are ok, its the one 'at the side' that failed. And were threaded half way down, so the new style ones by the looks of it.
BMW have since come back with “ due to the age were unable to offer any financial assistance towards the cost of this repair”
Sorry to hear that mate.
It's better if you find a damaged diff and you swap the cases.
karbonkid
18-02-2013, 06:14 PM
Any pics of damage? Could helicoil. I have a kit here. They're in-expensive.
CSL Diff on eBay. Been up for a while and been reduced once before. Im sure he will take an offer. £300?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-M3-CSL-LSD-DIFF-/321071832492?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ac15f5dac
Equinox
18-02-2013, 07:47 PM
Diff bolts sheering was a very common problem on E36 M3's but ive never heard of it on an E46 before.
shane@mbtech
18-02-2013, 09:59 PM
Im sure I have a casing here. If you are interested in the casing let me know.
Likely overtightened has caused it and stretched the bolt.
shane@mbtech
18-02-2013, 10:01 PM
Any pics of damage? Could helicoil. I have a kit here. They're in-expensive.
CSL Diff on eBay. Been up for a while and been reduced once before. Im sure he will take an offer. £300?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-M3-CSL-LSD-DIFF-/321071832492?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ac15f5dac
That diff has been opened very recently, with no mention in the advert.
The bolts are like new and the rear casing is extremely clean.
Neil M
18-02-2013, 10:28 PM
Likely overtightened has caused it and stretched the bolt.
I'm inclined to agree with lawsy (that's a first) the bolts have been overtightened, usually the sign of a pneumatic socket having been used to fit them and not a torque wrench.
There's a lesson to be learned there, just unfortunate that it's at your expense.
Jimbo
18-02-2013, 10:37 PM
Thanks for the advice guys, hopefully some warnings for others as you say. Just a pity BMW don't want to play...maybe i should pick it up with them in Munich.....if i wasn't going to spend all my cash on getting this fixed.
Current plan is to use a local engineering firm to re-helicoil the diff casing mount (its only done 30k). If i can get a decent price on the labour as i also would like them to do an Insp 2, an exhaust hanger, check the subframe and do any repair/precaution on the back of what they find, hopefully what i have read regarding goodwill on the subframe will hold true.
shane@mbtech
18-02-2013, 10:57 PM
Thanks for the advice guys, hopefully some warnings for others as you say. Just a pity BMW don't want to play...maybe i should pick it up with them in Munich.....if i wasn't going to spend all my cash on getting this fixed.
Current plan is to use a local engineering firm to re-helicoil the diff casing mount (its only done 30k). If i can get a decent price on the labour as i also would like them to do an Insp 2, an exhaust hanger, check the subframe and do any repair/precaution on the back of what they find, hopefully what i have read regarding goodwill on the subframe will hold true.
It dont take too long to get diff out. Not a big job.
The Gorilla
18-02-2013, 11:33 PM
Hi,
If its the Front bolt, then remove
the Diff and have the part that has
sheared off '' sparked'' out the diff
casing.
Any good engineering shop will do that.
Same as when the Brake Nipple shears
on the Caliper etc.
If not then have the sheared off part
drilled out, recut with oversize tap, and the
just re-drill the front diff Bush, which
is pressed into the Rear Sub frame/ Diff
carrier, which will be simple as the
Diff is out.
Makes no odds if the front Bolt is M10 or
M12.
If its a rear bolt then the thread into
diff carrier can be done in exactly the
same way, as can the 'ear bush'' on the
rear of the Diff back plate.
Regards,
The Gorilla.
Jimbo
01-03-2013, 06:50 PM
Got the car back today, all sorted. Diff case re-threaded, no damage to diff at all.
Cesil has never shifted and pulled away from a stand still so smoothly, which tells me there has been an issue since i bought the car. I assumed some clunking was normal after reading about the SMG, but it appears what i thought was normal, wasn't!
I would implore anyone who is getting a 'clunk' from the back end when shifting (especially at low speeds) to get the diff mounts and bushes checked for any play(i know there are many threads on here related to 'the clunk' - ill be adding to those when they come up too).
J2LTB
01-03-2013, 08:33 PM
Glad it's all sorted. Sounded very expensive at first. Ill be checking mine for sure !
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