Won't start!

[Jonnymaz]

Hi all,

Have been enjoying my new CSL for the last 5 months until today when I came to turn the key and the engine won't start!

All the lights come on, although the engine management light stays on in yellow (not sure this is normal?), turn key over and nothing happens. The key then won't turn over again until I take it out.

It's stuck on my drive as my breakdown cover only kicks in quarter of a mile from home so can't even get it to my local indy!

Has anyone come across same problem before? Any ideas gratefully received, including how to get it somewhere to fix it!

Thanks

[adem.csl]

have you checked that the gearbox has changed back to n in the display?if it is in 1 or r that means you hydraulic pump hasnt opperated.its either the gearbox relay or you havent pushed gearstick into neutral position.try that.

[Yanto]

It's a write off.

I suggest you start parting it out.

I'll take the flippers, roof, front bumper, bootlid, rear splitter, airbox and door/rear interior panels.






















:)

Post this in tech section...someone will be more helpful...good luck

[shimmy]

Battery dead.......maybe caused by alternator knackered


Hull..... Too far to lend you my sare battery. Charge up yours and see if it improves



Alternatively it may be SULKING coz you are NOT COMING TO MUNICH



.

[Jonnymaz]

Thanks guys.

The gear display is changing between 0 and 1 ok so looks like it is in neutral.

All lights are on ok, and when I turn the key it is silent rather than feebly attempting to turn the engine. Could it still be the battery?

I have tried opening and closing the bonnet (I saw somewhere a reference to a problem with the bonnet switch), and tried my spare key.

I also saw a suggestion that it might be relay switch?

Sorry should have posted in technical area, can it be moved?

Re Munich, would love to be coming but we are expecting twins in May so will never be allowed out again! Am now worried I will have to sell the CSL, but will hang on to it as long as I can!

[adem.csl]

when you unlock and open the door do you hear the pump buzzing?could be battery though.do the lights look dim?

[Bounce]

Sounds like battery,get it charged up,;)That was bad timing in September,you knew we were going,couldn't you have waited untill October,Shimmy has put a lot of time and effort into this trip.:whistle::whistle:

[Jonnymaz]

Not sure what to be listening out for to be honest. While I was trying various things I turned the interior fan off so I could listen out, and that made something make a buzzing/whirring noise behind the dash, and it then made the same noise when trying to start it. Very strange. Not sure if it's related or not...

Seeing as it's stuck on the drive and not moving, should probably try the battery first. Next problem - no charger!

Been meaning to get one for a while, should probably get something that can jump start my wife's Civic as well as charge mine (don't think I need to stretch to something that will jump start the CSL, but charging/trickle charging would be useful).

Any recommendations or further ideas re problem?

PS already have a 2 year old so doubt I'd have been allowed to go to Munich anyway, wife already hates the CSL and that would just be the final straw! Hope to meet up in this country some time tho...

Thanks for your help!

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Lift the bonnet and get a mate to hold down the bonnet switch, then see if it will start it happened to Billy at Donny last year :thumbs:

[billyboysm3]

Lift the bonnet and get a mate to hold down the bonnet switch, then see if it will start it happened to Billy at Donny last year :thumbs:

Yep, but what I have noticed is when you change the brake pads the next time you start the car you really need to hold the brake pedal down firmly.

My moneys on the battery.

Billy

[Steve B]

I had the same on sunday, all dash lights are lit up, wouldn't go into neutral and wouldn't turn over..... Flat battery (what a poxy sized small battery in the boot as well)...


Steve

[CraigMillwardCroft]

I had the same on sunday, all dash lights are lit up, wouldn't go into neutral and wouldn't turn over..... Flat battery (what a poxy sized small battery in the boot as well)...


Steve
Have you not got a trickle charger for the car, or is it used daily :-D

[Steve B]

No electric in my garage as it's in a block of garages away from house... I have now bought a hoooge battery (takes up the whole battery tray) and kept the small 1 for when I sell her as an optional extra

[Jonnymaz]

Hmmm, few options here.

The display definitely shows it going into neutral. Did try pressing the brake harder as just had new rear brake pads and discs.

I seem to recall previous owner got a new battery - larger M3 one - so it's not particularly old or small!

Will try looking at bonnet switch, and turn headlights on to see if battery seems low. Any easy way of telling if it is the battery (eg multimeter etc?)

I drive it maybe once a week so haven't bothered with trickle charger before, maybe I should?

[Levente]

Get the EWS software replaced by bmw. I had a similar problem, and it was the EWS causing it, it was messed up. it costed 50 euro

[Jonnymaz]

Well I've tried the bonnet switch again, and put the main headlights on and they work fine with no dimming, so does that suggest it's not a battery issue? Also I have checked and the battery is only a couple of years old.

The gears are changing fine, I can hear the clunk. When I turn the key in the ignition I can hear a pump whirring for a bit, not sure which one it is.

Read about a "dead spot" on the starter motor, tried rocking it but nothing.

Could it be a failed starter motor?

Any ideas what the significance of the warning light is? I think it is the emissions warning light, which stays on in yellow.

Also, just had a thought, is it normal with CSLs to have a delay between turning the key and firing up? It has always waited for a second or 2 before doing anything. Didn't think anything of this but wonder if it was a symptom if this is not normal?

Sorry to keep with the questions!!

[shimmy]

Look, easy solution. Call the AA.

If your not a member, join, then call them next week.

If you dont want to be an AA member, either buy a charged battery or borrow one, that will rule out alternator or battery.

Otherwise I am afraid you will have to call an auto electrician out or a recovery truck. Sitting waiting for an answer won't work, believe me.

[Equinox]

Sounds exactly the same as mine did the day after I arrived in sount of France, everything electrical working perfectly but not starting, mine was a starter, wouldnt engage at all. Im sure you can get yours dont quicker but little dealers in France spent a week fitting my starter, it's a bit rural where I was though.

[shane@mbtech]

Pretty basic checks will eliminate lots of things.

As Shimmy said you won't find your answers on here. You might get pointers but tbh you are best getting it looked at by someone who knows what they are doing

[Pip1968]

Look, easy solution. Call the AA.

If your not a member, join, then call them next week.

If you dont want to be an AA member, either buy a charged battery or borrow one, that will rule out alternator or battery.

Otherwise I am afraid you will have to call an auto electrician out or a recovery truck. Sitting waiting for an answer won't work, believe me.


Pretty basic checks will eliminate lots of things.

As Shimmy said you won't find your answers on here. You might get pointers but tbh you are best getting it looked at by someone who knows what they are doing

You two are harsh. Give the man a chance. It's the not knowing that is the worst bit. At least it may give you a heads up on cost and wait time. That way you can fend off 'er indoors about what a waste of money the car was and how much money you are spending on her.

.......perhaps that is just me :whistle:.

If it is any consolation I think my battery may need replacing. It sits on trickle charge but I have noticed of late that the orange charge light stays on for longer before going green. It would not start on pick up from BMW the other day but ironically it started just before that after sitting for nine days at Stanstead in the snow.

Pip

[83SY]

Sounds like battery,get it charged up,;)That was bad timing in September,you knew we were going,couldn't you have waited untill October,Shimmy has put a lot of time and effort into this trip.:whistle::whistle:

Always worth investing in a good trickle charger. Not much help this time but wont happen again :-D

[shane@mbtech]

You two are harsh. Give the man a chance. It's the not knowing that is the worst bit. At least it may give you a heads up on cost and wait time. That way you can fend off 'er indoors about what a waste of money the car was and how much money you are spending on her.

.......perhaps that is just me :whistle:.

If it is any consolation I think my battery may need replacing. It sits on trickle charge but I have noticed of late that the orange charge light stays on for longer before going green. It would not start on pick up from BMW the other day but ironically it started just before that after sitting for nine days at Stanstead in the snow.

Pip

We get customers who trawl the internet for answers. They dont know enough to be able to seive through the bullshit(thats why they ask to begin with), and they then start to panic about worse case scenarios, or buy needless parts that dont fix it. They then buy more parts that still dont fix it.

After needless wasted hours fitting parts that dont fix it and wasted time/money, they get us to look at it. It takes 20 minutes and the customer is back on the road for a fraction of the cost that they spent on incorrect parts(most of the time- occasionally its bad news, ecu fucked etc)

False economy sometimes.

My advice was just in case he went out buying things he may not need because an expert on the internet told him too:supz:

By all means check the things, but dont spend money until inspected correctly is my advice.

[Jonnymaz]

Ha, thanks Pip!

I did think that initially but to be honest they're absolutely right! I suppose I was just hoping for several people to say it was a common problem and was definitely xyz, if only because it's stuck on my drive and difficult to get it looked at by someone who knows what they're doing!

Guess it's either get it recovered or tow it! Fingers crossed it's not an expensive fix!

Would be interested to know about the time it takes to fire it up - do you guys also get a delay when you turn the key? Not had that on previous cars.

Will let you know what it is in case anyone is interested...

[Steve B]

Have you tried a set of jump leads or a jump pack???

[Pip1968]

No problem JonnyMaz. You have to help the underdog. With only 24 posts to your name I would not want you to get the wrong idea about the CSL Register. We are a friendly bunch despite all the swearing that has crept into the forum recently. Shimmy and Lawsy are generally very helpful so I assume that their responses were a little curt due to not being fed :whistle:.

I get a very small delay when I start mine so I think is normal but then my battery seems to be on its way out so I may be wrong :119:.

Pip

[shane@mbtech]

I got the slight delay on start, on all 3 of the CSl I've had.

When you rocked the car forward and back was it in gear with handbrake off?

[Jonnymaz]

Looks like the delay is usual for a CSL, presumably bracing itself for the noise!:thumbs:

Hopefully can get a tow from father-in-law on Saturday morning. Will try jump leads at the same time as I don't fancy pushing the car out twice to access the front!

[83SY]

what causes that slight delay? :119:

[shane@mbtech]

what causes that slight delay? :119:

I can only assume its a start enable thing, and the car is checking its not in gear etc etc

Edited to add after thinking about it, maybe its actuating clutch to start it.

[Jonnymaz]

Sorted, turns out it was the battery after all!

Last owner put a cheap one in. Now got a Bosch 70Ah, not the smallest but hopefully it will be more reliable!

Incidentally it came up in conversation that my car turns out to be flapless and I hadn't realised! Probably why the wife complains about the noise so much!

Does it make much difference, and is it worth considering putting one back in?

[shimmy]

Post 3...... And I have no clue whatsoever :)


Battery dead.......maybe caused by alternator knackered


Hull..... Too far to lend you my sare battery. Charge up yours and see if it improves



Alternatively it may be SULKING coz you are NOT COMING TO MUNICH



.

[Jonnymaz]

Yes, good call:thumbs:

The nice repair man checked the battery with a multimeter whilst the engine was running and explained that the reading could suggest what was wrong:

Less than 13.something volts means the alternator has gone (not enough charge getting into the battery).
Fluctuating between 13.something and 14.2v (I think), the alternator is ok but the battery is not holding the charge (as in my case).
Over 14.2v both ok.
He explained that the engine needed at least 14.2v to start, any less and nothing would happen.

I'm sure someone in the know will correct me if this is a load of bollocks but it might help someone with a similar problem!

[shane@mbtech]

Yes, good call:thumbs:

The nice repair man checked the battery with a multimeter whilst the engine was running and explained that the reading could suggest what was wrong:

Less than 13.something volts means the alternator has gone (not enough charge getting into the battery).
Fluctuating between 13.something and 14.2v (I think), the alternator is ok but the battery is not holding the charge (as in my case).
Over 14.2v both ok.
He explained that the engine needed at least 14.2v to start, any less and nothing would happen.

I'm sure someone in the know will correct me if this is a load of bollocks but it might help someone with a similar problem!

He is not very clever then, as a car sat there will not have 14.2v in the battery. Either you misheard him or typo.

[Bounce]

Post 3...... And I have no clue whatsoever :)And post 7,neither do I.:-D

[shimmy]

And post 7,neither do I.:-D


we are just simple builders!

[Bounce]

we are just simple builders!Yep,just drive them,don't know how the fook they work:smt039

As Donald Sutherland once said to Clint Eastwood about his Sherman Tank in Kelly's Heroes.:-D

[Jonnymaz]

He is not very clever then, as a car sat there will not have 14.2v in the battery. Either you misheard him or typo.

He said something about 14.2v being the magic number, although he wasn't particularly clear. Perhaps he was referring to the output of the alternator?

I was more interested in finding out how to fix it than listening to the science behind it!

[Porker]

I've had exactly the same problem on two occassions. I have a fresh battery since November, the lights are working fine, but it refused to start.

First time I push-started the car, started fine for about a month, until yesterday, same thing.

The car is booked for a clutch replacement next week, I'll have the starting problem checked as well, I'll let you know what it turned out to be.

[Pip1968]

Surely then it must be the alternator. With the new battery not being fully charged it probably just held out for the two/three months since it was replaced.

It is a commonly replaced item on the CSL and a warranty item I believe.

Pip

[Porker]

Surely then it must be the alternator. With the new battery not being fully charged it probably just held out for the two/three months since it was replaced.

It is a commonly replaced item on the CSL and a warranty item I believe.

Pip

Hi Pip,

To be honest, I don't think that's the case. When I push started it, it worked fine for two months, which should indicate the alternator is charging the battery? Also now, the lights and everything work perfectly, which should indicate the battery is in good nick (multimeter check confirms this). It seems like an electrical issue, strangely happening two times after I'd washed the car, maybe something to do with water getting where it shouldn't get?

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Hi Pip,

To be honest, I don't think that's the case. When I push started it, it worked fine for two months, which should indicate the alternator is charging the battery? Also now, the lights and everything work perfectly, which should indicate the battery is in good nick (multimeter check confirms this). It seems like an electrical issue, strangely happening two times after I'd washed the car, maybe something to do with water getting where it shouldn't get?

The answer must be don't wash it :whistle: Would be nice to find the problem though.

[Porker]

The issue with not-starting is solved, it was a faulty communication with the SMG selector lever.

[Porker]

The issue with not-starting is solved, it was a faulty communication with the SMG selector lever.

The EWS (electronische wegfahr sperre) says: "starter motor is blocked due to P/N"

Haven't found a solution yet.

Anyone else had this issue?

[_Nathan_]

You tried both keys?

[Porker]

You tried both keys?

Yes, I have!

[Porker]

They still haven't figured out how to solve the starting problem. Any advice here?

[Levente]

i think you might have the same problem that i had earlier. BMW mobileservice came two times and couldnt explain the problem, so the third time the guy said you must replace the EWS software. so i did, i mean the bmw service did. and now no problem. check that i suggest

[Porker]

i think you might have the same problem that i had earlier. BMW mobileservice came two times and couldnt explain the problem, so the third time the guy said you must replace the EWS software. so i did, i mean the bmw service did. and now no problem. check that i suggest

Thanks, will pass your suggestion on!

[Porker]

i think you might have the same problem that i had earlier. BMW mobileservice came two times and couldnt explain the problem, so the third time the guy said you must replace the EWS software. so i did, i mean the bmw service did. and now no problem. check that i suggest
When Mobilservice came, did they somehow manage to get the car going?

Mine can only be push-started at the moment, nothing else seems to work.

[_Nathan_]

Pretty sure if it was EWS then push starting wouldn't work?

You got power to start motor when trying to turn it over?

[Porker]

Pretty sure if it was EWS then push starting wouldn't work?

You got power to start motor when trying to turn it over?

The power is there, but there's absolutely no reaction on the starter motor-side. You know that "pause" when you start a CSL, well it's like that, but with a permanent pause. :-D

[shane@mbtech]

The power is there, but there's absolutely no reaction on the starter motor-side. You know that "pause" when you start a CSL, well it's like that, but with a permanent pause. :-D

So there is power to the starter motor when you turn the ignition to crank?

[Porker]

So there is power to the starter motor when you turn the ignition to crank?

I'll check with my workshop, I'm not working on it myself..

[shane@mbtech]

I'll check with my workshop, I'm not working on it myself..

There will be a permanent 12v to the starter full time on the main power line.

Then the smaller power line gets the 12v switched/signal when ignition turned to crank.

Its very basic stuff to check. If the switched line is powering up and you have also the permanent 12v to the main power line, then the fault is your starter motor.

Edit to add, if they have not checked this already, which you would hope they would have done, then I suggest you change workshops. I suspect they have though, or I hope they have.

[Porker]

The problem is supposedly found and solved!

The gear selector itself was apparently defective, they've changed it, and the car starts again.

The car is also in for a clutch change, but apparently the clutch is in near-new condition, yet I felt the shifts weren't as 'crisp' as I would like them to be, could there be another culprit aside from a worn clutch?

[_Nathan_]

Reteach?

Is it at a BMW dealer?

[Porker]

Reteach?

Is it at a BMW dealer?

Reteach the clutch biting point you mean? That's what the mechanic suggested as well.

Not at an official BMW dealer.

[Porker]

The problem is supposedly found and solved!

The gear selector itself was apparently defective, they've changed it, and the car starts again.

The car is also in for a clutch change, but apparently the clutch is in near-new condition, yet I felt the shifts weren't as 'crisp' as I would like them to be, could there be another culprit aside from a worn clutch?

About a month later, and the problem returned... :moan:
Not starting when in neutral as if the car is still in gear. Meanwhile I've got a new gearbox a new gear selector a new SMG ECU, ...

It's getting frustrating.

[outnumbered]

Stupid question, but could it be one of the bonnet micro switches ? But I'm guessing you've checked that.

[Porker]

Stupid question, but could it be one of the bonnet micro switches ? But I'm guessing you've checked that.

Funnily you're the second person to suggest that today, I've no idea it was checked in the workshop earlier, but I'd definately pass the advice on.

[shane@mbtech]

check the earth strap to the side of the cylinder head.