Ordered Intrax 1K2 - questions/suggestions

[Porker]

Hi all,

After struggling to get to grips with my Bilstein PSS10, I decided to take the jump and to order the Intrax 1K2 suspension/camberplates/rose joints. Now Intrax offer the option to take the "Black Titan" coating, which should result in better roadholding. Is it worth the additional outlay?

Furthermore, are they easy to adjust? What setting is preferred for the 'ring?

Anything else I need to know? It'll be my first Intrax-suspension, looking forward to the experience!

[billyboysm3]

Get them in Black Titan as they will not rust. Other wise your need to get the front two changed when you get them serviced. Think I paid 100+ euros each.

Who are you buying them from? Think most have gone to simpsons, they then fit and set up.

[Porker]

Get them in Black Titan as they will not rust. Other wise your need to get the front two changed when you get them serviced. Think I paid 100+ euros each.

Who are you buying them from? Think most have gone to simpsons, they then fit and set up.

If I'm not mistaken the Black Titan is solely applied to the piston, would the piston otherwise rust? I've never had a piston rust even on lesser dampers?

It is indeed €400 extra to have them Black Titan'd. I'm buying them directly from Intrax, I'm not UK-based. I guess one can contact Intrax for advice on settings?

[shimmy]

Henk is the man.

Not sure if black Titan is worth it but don't buy aluminium damper bodies as they corrode against he steel clamps on uk roads oer time. Buy steel, stainless steel or black titan.

Easy to adjust, small centre adjusters on rears (50 clicks) and large collar adjuster on front (40 clicks)

With 100F and 50R springs Adjust from hard around 20F and 25R for uk roads (half way) and down to about 9F and 12 R at Silverstone. I kept Donny, Oulton etc about 12F 15R ish. If wet knock it back to road settings.

At the Ring Curly used to have his -18F and -22 R all from hard.

Typical springs rates are 100F/50R, 120F,69R, 140F,70R. I have been using 100/50 as mine came with them but 120/60 is trAckday recommended and 140/70 of you have caged race beast and aren't bothered about road discomfort. Don't forget damper setting will change if you are using different springs to me.

[Porker]

Henk is the man.

Not sure if black Titan is worth it but don't buy aluminium damper bodies as they corrode against he steel clamps on uk roads oer time. Buy steel, stainless steel or black titan.

Easy to adjust, small centre adjusters on rears (50 clicks) and large collar adjuster on front (40 clicks)

With 100F and 50R springs Adjust from hard around 20F and 25R for uk roads (half way) and down to about 9F and 12 R at Silverstone. I kept Donny, Oulton etc about 12F 15R ish. If wet knock it back to road settings.

At the Ring Curly used to have his -18F and -22 R all from hard.

Typical springs rates are 100F/50R, 120F,69R, 140F,70R. I have been using 100/50 as mine came with them but 120/60 is trAckday recommended and 140/70 of you have caged race beast and aren't bothered about road discomfort. Don't forget damper setting will change if you are using different springs to me.

Hi Shimmy,

Thanks for the wealth of info! :notworthy:

I have specifically requested trackday/ring springs/settings so I'm assuming I will get the 120/60 springs.

Have you been happy with your choice for Intrax? If I'm not mistaken you are the one with the 2'49" Spa-lap? Can't wait to have a go at that, I've refused to go to Spa on my PSS10-suspension, I'm assuming on Intraxes it will be a blast...

[shimmy]

Hi Shimmy,

Thanks for the wealth of info! :notworthy:

I have specifically requested trackday/ring springs/settings so I'm assuming I will get the 120/60 springs.

Have you been happy with your choice for Intrax? If I'm not mistaken you are the one with the 2'49" Spa-lap? Can't wait to have a go at that, I've refused to go to Spa on my PSS10-suspension, I'm assuming on Intraxes it will be a blast...

I've got some 120/60 to try for next year, but otherwise I'm happy. They work fantastically on the e46

They are however race dampers and not maybe as long term reliable as road dampers. I've had mine refurbished. I know some had had fronts seize after a period parked up and a couple of knockings on rears

I would nt change though and mine have covered 50k miles

[azrael]

Just be prepared to be without your car for months on end...

[need4speed]

INTRAX all round, speak to Henk or Neik in Holland and they will put you right. Ask them about the anti roll control system that they can add on to the 1k2 system had it installed it on the dampers when the suspension was overhauled and set up earlier this year. My own personal dealings with INTRAX and the people involved have been superb.

Current set up 120/60 springs and stainless steel damper bodies fitted with anti-roll control valves.

[Curly]

INTRAX all round, speak to Henk or Neik in Holland and they will put you right. Ask them about the anti roll control system that they can add on to the 1k2 system had it installed it on the dampers when the suspension was overhauled and set up earlier this year. My own personal dealings with INTRAX and the people involved have been superb.

Current set up 120/60 springs and stainless steel damper bodies fitted with anti-roll control valves.

If I was doing it again this would be my ideal combo,after having 100/50 and 140/70 for road and track.

[83SY]

Go for the black titan! if nothing else it looks awesome... :supz:

I went to intrax early this year, standard setup to Intrax was a big difference. Adjustment very easy.

[conleth m3]

I have specifically requested trackday/ring springs/settings so I'm assuming I will get the 120/60 springs.



i requested this from henk and got 100/50 springs which i found fantastic. i ran them as shimmy says half way (20/25) for road. i softened them off by 5 clicks for the 'ring though rather than hardened them up from road settlings. just felt better for me over the kerbs/bumps of the nordschleife. but then for smoother circuits like donny/spa would harden them 5-7 clicks from midway both front + rear. suppose only had them on the car for 6 months before i sold the csl so didnt have as much time to play with the settings as others

maybe i'm just a gayer and prefer it softer :gayfight:

mine still for sale though, not actually tried to sell them to be honest. still got the idea of a cheap e46m3 stripped/caged and with all the bits i took of my csl as a trackslag to complement the gt3 :supz:

[northernjim]

maybe i'm just a gayer and prefer it softer :gayfight::whistle::whistle::whistle:

mine still for sale though, not actually tried to sell them to be honest. still got the idea of a cheap e46m3 stripped/caged and with all the bits i took of my csl as a trackslag to complement the gt3 :supz:

Do it:beer::partyman:

[Porker]

Given the Intrax will come with camberplates as well, is there a preferred geo setup for fast road/Nordschleife useage in combination with Intrax?

Currently running switched top-mounts front which gives about -2.5deg camber, I was quite happy with this setup. Is there an advantage to be head in increasing front negative camber more still?

[shimmy]

Given the Intrax will come with camberplates as well, is there a preferred geo setup for fast road/Nordschleife useage in combination with Intrax?

Currently running switched top-mounts front which gives about -2.5deg camber, I was quite happy with this setup. Is there an advantage to be head in increasing front negative camber more still?

There are circuits that ideally require -3.0 or even -3.5 camber to get best grip and also tyre wear more evently. Not sure about the Ring but I guess -2.5 on Cups will probably be fine.

[Porker]

There are circuits that ideally require -3.0 or even -3.5 camber to get best grip and also tyre wear more evently. Not sure about the Ring but I guess -2.5 on Cups will probably be fine.

Well currently running Supersports but will be switching to Cups next season.

Regarding toe-in/out, any suggestions?

[Porker]

Collected the car today, running -10F/-15R, with the roads being wet today I found that setup to be a little bit 'spiky', will probably move to -15F/-20R and see from there.

Body control has improved immensely over the PSS10 setup. Though I was hoping the 'ticking' noise on surface imperfections coming from the rear (left and right) would be cured with the new dampers. Is this something affecting all uniball'd cars? (My PSS10 was also equipped with uniball top-mounts) Note that my car is stripped and caged, it might pass more noises on to the driver than a regular car.

Further impressions will follow!

[DuncanR]

Do not go the Titanium route steel all the way ....
One of my springs, not sure what the other one is but it hurts my ass over a bump 1

[83SY]

What made you go for steel??? :banghead:

[DuncanR]

What made you go for steel??? :banghead:Had problems with the Titanium ones that were fitted in about 2007 ?? and as I track mine, and its caged etc. the steel options are stronger IN THIS APPLICATION, Titanium is only stronger when considering it in a strength/weight ratio. Titanium is also more brittle than good old steel !

[83SY]

I was advised not to go for the steel one because they rust?
i dont know :119: + steel stronger than Titan???

[northernjim]

I was advised not to go for the steel one because they rust?
i dont know :119: + steel stronger than Titan???

I thought it was don't go for aluminium as it breaks?

[shimmy]

I thought it was don't go for aluminium as it breaks?

Aluminium corrodes as it reacts to he steel clamp I think mainly when used on rod and road salt but it might be all the time. avoid Aluminium.

Stainless is better than steel because it won't rust, but both are heavy.
Titanium is meant to be lighter and stronger than both, unless they have a fat lump above them :smokin:

[83SY]

Aluminium corrodes as it reacts to he steel clamp I think mainly when used on rod and road salt but it might be all the time. avoid Aluminium.

Stainless is better than steel because it won't rust, but both are heavy.
Titanium is meant to be lighter and stronger than both, unless they have a fat lump above them :smokin:

Thats the advice i got from more than one source :thumbs:

Is Dunc Scottish? :whistle:

[Curly]

Aluminium corrodes as it reacts to he steel clamp I think mainly when used on rod and road salt but it might be all the time. avoid Aluminium.

Stainless is better than steel because it won't rust, but both are heavy.
Titanium is meant to be lighter and stronger than both, unless they have a fat lump above them :smokin:

I learned the hard way:bigcry:

[mattCSLnut]

I learned the hard way:bigcry:
:goodman: Did it look like anything like this ? :119:

[Curly]

:goodman: Did it look like anything like this ? :119:

Yep:(

[Porker]

I checked under the hood today and noticed this difference between both top-mounts. The left one has a much bigger open space than the right one? Not sure I'm happy with the way that looks.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/Porkerr/004B25F5-1A0C-44AB-B2D5-F13CE4058359-281-0000002452D61504.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c6/Porkerr/818950D5-25C9-4D87-95F9-8003229B3863-281-000000245766343E.jpg

[_Nathan_]

Chassis can be so far off that as long as the geo is right you are ok.

[Porker]

Chassis can be so far off that as long as the geo is right you are ok.

Geo is indeed 100% identical L/R, luckily. Both sides set at -3

[alexk]

I think the top mounts are not aligned or placed in the same place in the strut tower holes...

BTW, shame on you, rusted bolts on the strut bar :smt063

[Loaded]

I think the top mounts are not aligned or placed in the same place in the strut tower holes...

BTW, shame on you, rusted bolts on the strut bar :smt063

True that :119:

[s.mac]

Please please do yourself a favour and put the BMW top mount support between the intrax top mount and the car. I know that may not make sense but BMW make a piece that spreads the load. You have all the load in a very small area:( if you do a search you will find the part number required :)
the small top mount will cause damage!!!!

[Porker]

Please please do yourself a favour and put the BMW top mount support between the intrax top mount and the car. I know that may not make sense but BMW make a piece that spreads the load. You have all the load in a very small area:( if you do a search you will find the part number required :)
the small top mount will cause damage!!!!

Thanks for the advice, I will do that! Does the dish of the front strut brace not spread the load as well?

[s.mac]

yes, when the suspension drops, but when coming the other way the smaller top mounts are nowhere near the size of the OEM ones and therefore create stress where the car cant take it and wasnt designed to do so, there is an easy OEM additional support that is cheap and just pop rivets in. I had mine painted as they come in black :whistle:

[s.mac]

part number 2 x 51 71 7 038 781

dont forget the rear z3 plates to go on the back