Overheating on track only

[shimmy]

So what I need is a reply from every owner who has tracked their CSL under what can be described as hot summer conditions.

The overheating I am asking about is the type that happens on a hot (23 degree plus) day, after the car is well warmed up and the engine bay is heat soaked. As you then give it 100% throttle (this hallens when circuits have soem straights) The car will then start to have rising oil temps say up to 2/3 and then the water temps follow up and above 3/4 and rise towards the red if you let it.

If you come off the throttle within 1-2 corners the water temps drop quickly.

The question is designed to see if 100 cell cats cold be responsible for this. Please don't answer if you don't have an first hand answer

[CraigMillwardCroft]

I was at Circuit de Bretange last year temp around 28 degrees, and oil temp went to 125 but water no problem, does this help my oil temp when on track rises to 125 all tracks. :thumbs:

[Barry C]

I'm afraid to reply but I'll do it anyway:hahaha:

I don't have the CSL long enough to comment but I had an e36 track car which was quite the weapon, and, it had similar symptoms to this.

The cure with these things is usually quite simple, just buy a new OEM cooler. They get so clogged up with gunk over time and get their cooling fins all bashed in from stones.

I looked in to modified 13 row coolers etc and in the end A new OEM cured it.

Temps never went above have way doing 20 laps+

[Mark CSL]

You cant be talking to us scotts its never 23 up here :whistle:

Seen oil temp at 125 but water temp never gets hot thats after 30 or more laps
standard cats

[Yanto]

Farenheit or Celsius ?

[Bounce]

Farenheit or Celsius ?:hahaha::hahaha:

[shimmy]

just buy a new OEM cooler.

Temps never went above have way doing 20 laps+



Have new cooler, new engine, new lots of stuff :beer:

But cheers for replying and keep it up boys.

[shane@mbtech]

Did you ask Gareth re the oil switch?

[shimmy]

Did you ask Gareth re the oil switch?

He said they all come on the new engine fitted. :smokin:

[shane@mbtech]

Have you fitted your pump/reg yet?

You got text BTW:thumbs:

[shimmy]

Have you fitted your pump/reg yet?

You got text BTW:thumbs:

Yep fitted and ready to try it:-D

[Funkster]

As been said already, oil up to 125 but water temp rock solid in the middle.

That's on my old engine and the new one !:-D

With standard cats but SS middle and back.

[glendog74]

I was at Circuit de Bretange last year temp around 28 degrees, and oil temp went to 125 but water no problem, does this help my oil temp when on track rises to 125 all tracks. :thumbs:

As been said already, oil up to 125 but water temp rock solid in the middle.

That's on my old engine and the new one !:-D

With standard cats but SS middle and back.

As above for me Shim:

Oil temps rise on mine during high ambient temps (to approx 125) but I have yet to see my water temps rise...

SS headers/200 cell OEM cats/SS centre/SS back box

:smokin:

[3wheels3]

Have voted but to confirm in txt...no mods & no over heating. Water temp rock solid. Always make sure oil temp is around road temp returning to pits.

[alexk]

shimmy

My problem was faulty thermostat and fan coupling.

thank you please

[maxmeerkat]

If your water temps are rising, have you considered the bmw motorsport thermostat ? Will be fitting mine soon.

[shimmy]

shimmy

My problem was faulty thermostat and fan coupling.

thank you please

Alex, remind me when your overheating happened (did it meet the criteria I pointed out above)


If your water temps are rising, have you considered the bmw motorsport thermostat ? Will be fitting mine soon.

Put in new stat then Motorsport stat. Does not make any difference to this as it is at hot conditions when any stat will be fully open

[maxmeerkat]

I guess next step is a race bonnet from Geoff Steele ;)

[shimmy]

I guess next step is a race bonnet from Geoff Steele ;)

maybe but not to cure this, it is something much more fundamental than that

[thegingerninja]

Sometimes when the internal coolant system reaches 7 or 8 years old there can be a thin layer of corrosion across the entire internal surface area. If the water temp reaches boiling point you can get "kettling" (small gas bubbles) forming on this line layer of corrosion. Obviously the air bubbles act as an insulator and the temp will increase if you don't drop the engine load.

I think there are some products you can run through the coolant system to remove the layer, and then refill using an additive which combats the kettling. I had a problem like this on a race car and I tried a product called water wetter - I wasn't convinced it would work, but I saw a drop in coolant temps afterwards, probably about 10 degrees.

I have spoken with some other csl owners who have experienced what you describe shimmy, particularly climbing the hill at the ring. We ruled out a failing viscous fan because of the sustained high speed would create plenty of air flow. The other possibilities were: radiator had lost it's heat capacity due to ageing, water pump lost efficiency or engine running lean (due to fuel supply not meeting demand at full throttle and high revs).

Only way to find out for sure is to rule them out one at a time.

[shimmy]

Sometimes when the internal coolant system reaches 7 or 8 years old there can be a thin layer of corrosion across the entire internal surface area. If the water temp reaches boiling point you can get "kettling" (small gas bubbles) forming on this line layer of corrosion. Obviously the air bubbles act as an insulator and the temp will increase if you don't drop the engine load.

I think there are some products you can run through the coolant system to remove the layer, and then refill using an additive which combats the kettling. I had a problem like this on a race car and I tried a product called water wetter - I wasn't convinced it would work, but I saw a drop in coolant temps afterwards, probably about 10 degrees.

I have spoken with some other csl owners who have experienced what you describe shimmy, particularly climbing the hill at the ring. We ruled out a failing viscous fan because of the sustained high speed would create plenty of air flow. The other possibilities were: radiator had lost it's heat capacity due to ageing, water pump lost efficiency or engine running lean (due to fuel supply not meeting demand at full throttle and high revs).

Only way to find out for sure is to rule them out one at a time.


great post, thanks

my oil and water coolant system is new as is engine. water rad i have not renewed yet but have cleaned and straightened fins.

water pump is new as is sensors and stats as well as wetter used.

def not fan as you say

my thoughts now are 100 cell cat affecting ecu at full throttle or fuel system running it just lean at full throttle

i have trief another fuel pump (no change) and now have just changed fuel regulator and filter. regulator does change fueling at full throttle so maybe that it, well soon see;)

[alexk]

Alex, remind me when your overheating happened (did it meet the criteria I pointed out above)


Well.
Very hot day, tight track, most corners with 2nd gear, oil temp at about 120C and then water temp almost reached red (it touched red).
I backed off a lot and it cooled down.

As you saw in my post for the thermostat tests, it was obvious that my stat didn't open fully so the water flow was not maximum.
I am not running any cats, just a backbox.
Might be a strange fact, but I doubt the engine runs lean when the consumption on track is > 26lt / 100km.

Shimmy.
I have a question for you.
Are you using the original BMW coolant fluid and is it mixed with water or not ?

[shimmy]

Well.
Very hot day, tight track, most corners with 2nd gear, oil temp at about 120C and then water temp almost reached red (it touched red).
I backed off a lot and it cooled down.

As you saw in my post for the thermostat tests, it was obvious that my stat didn't open fully so the water flow was not maximum.
I am not running any cats, just a backbox.
Might be a strange fact, but I doubt the engine runs lean when the consumption on track is > 26lt / 100km.

Shimmy.
I have a question for you.
Are you using the original BMW coolant fluid and is it mixed with water or not ?

i have whatever bmw put in with. new engine, not sure what

[O'Neill]

Wasn't your car remapped some time ago? has the ecu been put back to oem/maybe try another ecu if your new parts don't solve the problem.

Or oil cooler and mishimoto rad.

[northernjim]

Let's face it.... These csl's are just am expensive pike of junk really


Never had these problems with my blue oval running oodles of boost! :hahaha::hahaha:

[Mark CSL]

Let's face it.... These csl's are just am expensive pike of junk really


Never had these problems with my blue oval running oodles of boost! :hahaha::hahaha:


They dont run long enough to have overheating problems :whistle:

[alexk]

i have whatever bmw put in with. new engine, not sure what

The bottle says to mix it 1:1 with water.
It is better to have plain fluid though.

[shimmy]

They dont run long enough to have overheating problems :whistle:

And 100% throttle is about 35bhp :thumbs:

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Let's face it.... These csl's are just am expensive pike of junk really


Never had these problems with my blue oval running oodles of boost! :hahaha::hahaha:
Just lag out of the corners :whistle:

[northernjim]

Just lag out of the corners :whistle:

:whistle: :bigcry: it's the only reason I've gone rwd now...

[CraigMillwardCroft]

:whistle: :bigcry: it's the only reason I've gone rwd now...
Was that due to also drive shafts breaking on circuits :(

[manos///3]

When the air temperature was vey high on track, the engine water temp was climbing to 3/4 , close to red.
Then I changed fan coupling on the main fan and motorsport thermostat and disabled this problem.

My cats are 200 cell SS (cod 787502)

[shane@mbtech]

The viscous fan shouldn't cool more than the air flowing through the rad.

But if the viscous is bolloxed it could in theory create drag on the water pump and add to the issue.

It's worth a pop I suppose.

[ando]

Hey Up,

I have only had the oil go to 120 and the water slightly above half way at the Ring, only time it went higher was following a mate in his focus RS videoing him and I think he was punching a massive hole in the atmosphere and I couldn't get any cooling cuz of the barn in front of me! lol but as soon as we finished the lap and I pulled out in to the air flow the temp dropped to normal. I have oem headers, miltek 100 cells cats and oem back box. It has had a remap after running lean, as I believe they all do on standard maps, but that was only done this year.

Ando.

[shimmy]

Hey Up,

I have only had the oil go to 120 and the water slightly above half way at the Ring, only time it went higher was following a mate in his focus RS videoing him and I think he was punching a massive hole in the atmosphere and I couldn't get any cooling cuz of the barn in front of me! lol but as soon as we finished the lap and I pulled out in to the air flow the temp dropped to normal. I have oem headers, miltek 100 cells cats and oem back box. It has had a remap after running lean, as I believe they all do on standard maps, but that was only done this year.

Ando.


Ando

what does your last sentence mean?

[shane@mbtech]

Hey Up,

I have only had the oil go to 120 and the water slightly above half way at the Ring, only time it went higher was following a mate in his focus RS videoing him and I think he was punching a massive hole in the atmosphere and I couldn't get any cooling cuz of the barn in front of me! lol but as soon as we finished the lap and I pulled out in to the air flow the temp dropped to normal. I have oem headers, miltek 100 cells cats and oem back box. It has had a remap after running lean, as I believe they all do on standard maps, but that was only done this year.

Ando.

Who mapped it?
Who told you they run lean standard?

[alexk]

The viscous fan shouldn't cool more than the air flowing through the rad.

But if the viscous is bolloxed it could in theory create drag on the water pump and add to the issue.

It's worth a pop I suppose.

lawsy you keep insisting the viscous fan is not a problem, but correct me here.
Do you have experience in countries with very high temperatures (i.e. Greece with 45+) ?
As I said in the other thread, the viscous fan is a problem in BMWs when the weathers is very hot and speed less than 60km/h (i.e. going uphill with second gear).
That's coming from 30+ years of experience in a country with very hot weather.

[shimmy]

lawsy you keep insisting the viscous fan is not a problem, but correct me here.
Do you have experience in countries with very high temperatures (i.e. Greece with 45+) ?
As I said in the other thread, the viscous fan is a problem in BMWs when the weathers is very hot and speed less than 60km/h (i.e. going uphill with second gear).
That's coming from 30+ years of experience in a country with very hot weather.


either way its got feck all to do with my question! (as its nothing to do with overheating on track at 100% throttle) :banghead:

[ando]

Ando

what does your last sentence mean?

Headgasket went last year, Mr Vanos did it, told me he's done loads of m3 and csl's, as they are lean at the top end of the rev range. so have had it re mapped, it was lean according to the guy that mapped it a local garage done it on a rolling road, took the limiter off to. I had it on track this year got a miss fire and Mr Vanos check it over as I thought ot could be headgasket again, it was coil packs. he asked if I'd had it mapped yet I said 'No' as the car has gone out to the ring this year I thought I'd have it done before it went. Was down on power and torque, feels nice now.

Hopefully will feel even better this weekend when I go out and the Shrick Cams and another remap have been done.

Cheers

Ando

[CSL BEAST]

Hi shimmy its will shanes mate if bmw have changed the motor you now have a new motorsport thermostat,new water pump,oil cooler and all water pipes etc have been changed or checked .The only other parts left in the cooling system would be radiator ,heater matrix heater control valve .Its very hard to check the radiator at the track due to all the plastic cowling so feeling for a cold spot or blockage reducing flow is imposible .As some body else has said reducing air flow to the rad by following a car closley made the temp go up to 3/4 if this is true a blockage in the radiator could possibly cause a similair rise under extreme conditions such as hot ambiant temps and 100% throttle .The csl runs a closed loop 02 sytem so it is monitoring exhaust gas temp and fuel mixture all the time even at full throttle constantly adjusting air fuel mixture not to mention the knock sensor that would pull timing and add fuel if things where going lean or hot i would be very supprized if a cat would cause this issue ,if it was the cat/exhaust temps the eml would be on as the temp sensor in the exhaust down pipe would pick it up.Just my opinion hope this helps to decide what part to change first :thumbs:GOOD LUCK

[shimmy]

Hi shimmy its will shanes mate if bmw have changed the motor you now have a new motorsport thermostat,new water pump,oil cooler and all water pipes etc have been changed or checked .The only other parts left in the cooling system would be radiator ,heater matrix heater control valve .Its very hard to check the radiator at the track due to all the plastic cowling so feeling for a cold spot or blockage reducing flow is imposible .As some body else has said reducing air flow to the rad by following a car closley made the temp go up to 3/4 if this is true a blockage in the radiator could possibly cause a similair rise under extreme conditions such as hot ambiant temps and 100% throttle .The csl runs a closed loop 02 sytem so it is monitoring exhaust gas temp and fuel mixture all the time even at full throttle constantly adjusting air fuel mixture not to mention the knock sensor that would pull timing and add fuel if things where going lean or hot i would be very supprized if a cat would cause this issue ,if it was the cat/exhaust temps the eml would be on as the temp sensor in the exhaust down pipe would pick it up.Just my opinion hope this helps to decide what part to change first :thumbs:GOOD LUCK

Cheers.


Radiator
Heater Matrix
Heater control valve


I guess I have dismissed the radiator as it is so obvious nd so many US ATS have fitted new or upgrades and not solved the issues.

Heater matrix is a good call. I have no idea what it does or how it could affect temps, same with control valve. How do they work?


What do you reckon about fuel regulator and filter that I've just swapped?

[CSL BEAST]

Hi Shimmy
sorry its taken a while to get back to you.The heater matrix is a small heat exchanger or radiator inside the heater box air is blown through it by the heater motor to heat the interior cabin .The heater control valve or duo valve controls the flow of coolant through the matrix .Before i even thought about taking the dash out i would rig a by pass pipe up to rule the matrix out its a pig of a job .Before i went any further i would add a forte coolant system flush run the car for a day or two drain the system and reverse flush the rad wont cost much and may just help then again may not .If myself or lawsy can help just let us know .The fuel filter and regulator can only be a good move after 9 years of use imo.

[northernjim]

Sometimes when the internal coolant system reaches 7 or 8 years old there can be a thin layer of corrosion across the entire internal surface area. If the water temp reaches boiling point you can get "kettling" (small gas bubbles) forming on this line layer of corrosion. Obviously the air bubbles act as an insulator and the temp will increase if you don't drop the engine load.

I think there are some products you can run through the coolant system to remove the layer, and then refill using an additive which combats the kettling. I had a problem like this on a race car and I tried a product called water wetter - I wasn't convinced it would work, but I saw a drop in coolant temps afterwards, probably about 10 degrees.


Only way to find out for sure is to rule them out one at a time.

water wetter/other products are available... contains xyz tho which is unfortunately not good for seals

Was that due to also drive shafts breaking on circuits :(

:moan: never missed a beat:finga:


That's coming from 30+ years of experience in a country with very hot weather.

feck just how old are you Alex:119:







Can I ask does anyone know what the water temp gauges readings are? what is operating temp? 100c I assume, but how hot is 'red' 125c? 150c?






I did suffer from a hot engine at donny, when following csl's for a lap waiting for them to move over:wanker: like you say tho, back off and it drops straight back down

[alexk]

Yesterday in Monza I had no overheating issues :)

My problem is solved :beer:

[AlexGTT]

Yesterday in Monza I had no overheating issues :)

My problem is solved :beer:

Yes, but what were the ambient temperatures Alex? Generally the issue only happens with 25 degree+ ambients.

[shimmy]

Yes, but what were the ambient temperatures Alex? Generally the issue only happens with 25 degree+ ambients.


i think Alexs problem were slightly different but i agree, this only happens as my original thread about 23-24 degrees upwards

[alexk]

shimmy I did a trackday this friday with 38C... With up to 30C I didn't have this problem.
So, I had at times the engine water temp rising a bit, but it's a bit strange.
It would initially get a bit hotter, I would back off for 30 secs.
Then one more time the same thing would happen, I would back off for 30 secs and then throttle to the floor non-stop without issues.
I did a session of 40+ mins, I had the water temp rising twice in the beginning and then no issues.
It seems to me that the thermostat is misbehaving, I will check with my father to confirm.

The oil temperature was at 110-115 all the time.
I plan to install the Motorsport thermostat.

[adem.csl]

shimmy I did a trackday this friday with 38C... With up to 30C I didn't have this problem.
So, I had at times the engine water temp rising a bit, but it's a bit strange.
It would initially get a bit hotter, I would back off for 30 secs.
Then one more time the same thing would happen, I would back off for 30 secs and then throttle to the floor non-stop without issues.
I did a session of 40+ mins, I had the water temp rising twice in the beginning and then no issues.
It seems to me that the thermostat is misbehaving, I will check with my father to confirm.

The oil temperature was at 110-115 all the time.
I plan to install the Motorsport thermostat.



Alex were you driving close behind another car picking up their heat from running in their hot air?sounds a bit like sticky thermostat that has freed off.could also be the fin in the water pump if you have plastic fin water pump the fin gets hot expands and loosens from the shaft then catches again.
I've only done 2 trackdays soo far and last one was last week.ambient temps of 28-25c give or take(was a hot day)and i got 125c oil temps and water temp perfect half way used track and sport mode all evening.run like a dream!

[Graham]

110-115 on a 38c day!? Is that standard oil cooler? Mine hits 124 on a cold day!

[adem.csl]

110-115 on a 38c day!? Is that standard oil cooler? Mine hits 124 on a cold day!

That's cool i was gonna question if mine was too hot but im going brands monday so i will run and record my temps again

[alexk]

Alex were you driving close behind another car picking up their heat from running in their hot air?sounds a bit like sticky thermostat that has freed off.could also be the fin in the water pump if you have plastic fin water pump the fin gets hot expands and loosens from the shaft then catches again.
I've only done 2 trackdays soo far and last one was last week.ambient temps of 28-25c give or take(was a hot day)and i got 125c oil temps and water temp perfect half way used track and sport mode all evening.run like a dream!

Well, it was busy in general. I need to check my videos to see when I was behind other cars.
If you see a post of mine with some thermostat tests, I think the S54 thermostat design is a bit clunky and I start to believe that it develops issues over time, especially on cars that are not being driven oftenly.
If the thermostat does not open my 1-2mm, the water flow will be reduced.
The water pump could also be problematic, I am going to replace it soon.

110-115 on a 38c day!? Is that standard oil cooler? Mine hits 124 on a cold day!

Standard oil cooler yes.
I didn't see 120 at all.
PS : I changed my oil one day before the trackday and in general I change oil + oil filter every 3k km.

[shane@mbtech]

What oil do you run Alex?

Well, it was busy in general. I need to check my videos to see when I was behind other cars.
If you see a post of mine with some thermostat tests, I think the S54 thermostat design is a bit clunky and I start to believe that it develops issues over time, especially on cars that are not being driven oftenly.
If the thermostat does not open my 1-2mm, the water flow will be reduced.
The water pump could also be problematic, I am going to replace it soon.



Standard oil cooler yes.
I didn't see 120 at all.
PS : I changed my oil one day before the trackday and in general I change oil + oil filter every 3k km.

[adem.csl]

Cool has the thermostat got the wax stat switch on the top?i cant remember off top my head!but if soo it may be thats not softening up enough to allow opening!!
Im gonna change my oil after my next session as i don't drive mine hard enough to warrant it!

[alexk]

What oil do you run Alex?

Castrol TWS 10W-60 (as you know the new name is Edge TWS 10W-60).
I think almost everybody run this oil.

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Alex were you driving close behind another car picking up their heat from running in their hot air?sounds a bit like sticky thermostat that has freed off.could also be the fin in the water pump if you have plastic fin water pump the fin gets hot expands and loosens from the shaft then catches again.
I've only done 2 trackdays soo far and last one was last week.ambient temps of 28-25c give or take(was a hot day)and i got 125c oil temps and water temp perfect half way used track and sport mode all evening.run like a dream!

I ran mine hard at SPA the other week water temp never moved but oil temp was always near 125, outside temp was about 32 degrees. :thumbs:

[Mike R]

Alex, I've researched the high temp issues in depth, as the M3 boys across the water (where they have good weather all year round in some States) have the same issues. From what I can determine the switch to the hotter climes thermostat made no difference to cars that suffered with high temps, even switching to motorsport style radiators gave little or no improvement, but what did cure the issues was junking the OE viscous fan and fitting a pair of SPAL electric fans.

Make of that what you will :).

[karbonkid]

The oil temperature was at 110-115 all the time.
I plan to install the Motorsport thermostat.

Prepare for much longer warm ups Alex

[Ali M]

Hi, I don't post on here but having a browse and thought worth mentioning that most of the CSL's & E46 M3's were seeing very high water temps at the recent DN9 trackday at the ring.

Oil stayed at 125 degrees but water was very high with ambient heat at around 30 degrees max.

My E46M3 is stock exhaust/engine/cooling system etc. I turned the AC off and heaters on which allowed it to shed enough heat from the system to have the needle in the middle.

I think just about everyone there with an S54 had issues and this was the first time that I have had any cooling issues.

[shimmy]

The current solution seems to be to delete the oem clutch fan and maybe shroud and install a Spal electric fan and controls.

In US they believe that the clutch fan at high speeds block the air flow to and through the radiator which at high throttle loads just tip the balance on the cooling.

[Graham]

Yeah mine creeped off the middle of the gauge for the first time ever.

Also worth mentioning that Ali looked like he'd been in a wet t-shirt competition through the sweat from having heaters on :hahaha:

[adem.csl]

Wow mine behaves soo beautifully i got no temp issues touch wood!

[rstoughy]

Yeah mine cooked in Germany. Off the scale.

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Yeah mine cooked in Germany. Off the scale.
Have you found what the problem was or found a solution.

[rstoughy]

1/2 a lap stuck behind an R8 who wouldn't move over seemed to be the problem.
Not only was it close to 30deg but was running into all the hot air coming out the back of that thing.

[Mike R]

At the same DN9 event, mine had perfect water temps, but 125 deg oil temps and I was running the air con all the time. As mentioned the ambients were 30 deg and the on track the temps rose to 38 deg as displayed on the dash, which was the hottest I've ever run the car at full chat.

I then had similar oil temps at Silverstone, hence why I'm going to invest in an oil cooler.

[alexk]

I find it odd that a few people have oil overheating issues.
Mine never had any oil overheating.

Has anyone thought that the oil thermostat could be broken ?

[Mike R]

I find it odd that a few people have oil overheating issues.
Mine never had any oil overheating.

Has anyone thought that the oil thermostat could be broken ?

Perhaps you don't drive fast enough ;).

I believe it to be okay, as in normal driving it hovers around the correct 100°C.

[Ali M]

Yeah mine creeped off the middle of the gauge for the first time ever.

Also worth mentioning that Ali looked like he'd been in a wet t-shirt competition through the sweat from having heaters on :hahaha:

Didn't like the idea of coming off the throttle early approach.

Alternative was + 32 on heaters when driving an M3 that felt like a greenhouse in 30 deg heat. As you know, the the result was a sweat fest!!!

[Graham]

I'd have gone for your approach too to be fair!

[stevenEK9]

+1 on the elevated water temps at DN9 (brand new radiator and thermostat in mine), I too looked like a spring break hoochie when i peeled myself out the car due to running the fans at full heat but the blowers on as low as possible and the windows cracked open a bit

going to have a look at improving the cooling system (if it means removing the clutch fan then so be it) over winter when i plumb in some brake ducting with the CSL bumper

oil temps were about 120-125 so nothing untoward there

[Mike R]

I would add that to achieve the perfect water temps, I ALWAYS remove the front number plate on my cars when on track, as it disrupts the air flow to the cooling systems (something which most people seem to overlook ;) ).

[Mark CSL]

Just a thought but how accurate do you think the gauge is ?
Has any one tested it ?:whistle:

[Mike R]

Just a thought but how accurate do you think the gauge is ?
Has any one tested it ?:whistle:

Setra has (we had a conversation at the 'ring) - he said that the OEM oil temp gauge does over-read by some 15-20° - however, I'm not sure if that is °C or °F :whistle:

[alexk]

Just a thought but how accurate do you think the gauge is ?
Has any one tested it ?:whistle:

Yes I have been testing it the last 2 months or so.

The temperature gauge for temperatures between 84 and 94 C shows bang on the middle (this is the buffering function of BMW's gauges).
95 C and then it goes to 3/4 :whistle:
83 C and you are 3mm below middle.

At the same time, the car's manual shows normal water temperature is between 1/4 and 3/4.

So I am starting to wonder whether the issues most of us see on the track (cars with an issue excluded) is down to the:
1. Operation of the gauge
2. Behavior of the engine under different loads.

[alexk]

If you come off the throttle within 1-2 corners the water temps drop quickly.


So shimmy why the water temp in the gauge drops so quickly is because it's just 1C difference between 3/4 and 1/2 (from 95C to drop to 94C).

[Graham]

I've just come back from the Ring at DN10 track day, worst I've ever seen for my car on temps, was 28 degrees though. I was having to let off down the straight and then it was more or less ok for a lap. If I did the full straight I was getting between the dot and the red mark by halfway round the lap and had to let off when the temp quickly dropped back down. I know it's an extreme circumstance given the abuse is higher than normal and the temps, but I think I need to give my 9 year old cooling system a refresh now.

[rstoughy]

I suffered this again over the 2 days at the ring this week.
Every time however it was caused by catching slower cars and the refusal of them to move over to allow me to pass. When collecting the dirty hot air from them I observed a rapid rise in the water temp up into the red.
Backing off and pulling out of the disrupted air flow and it would return to normal within a minute or so.

A couple of pals were running their M3's with the electric fan mod and commented that they never had a problem.

Wed was 24 deg c and Thurs 28 deg c so fairly warm.

[Graham]

I suffered this again over the 2 days at the ring this week.
Every time however it was caused by catching slower cars and the refusal of them to move over to allow me to pass. When collecting the dirty hot air from them I observed a rapid rise in the water temp up into the red.
Backing off and pulling out of the disrupted air flow and it would return to normal within a minute or so.

A couple of pals were running their M3's with the electric fan mod and commented that they never had a problem.

Wed was 24 deg c and Thurs 28 deg c so fairly warm.
My mate was in my car and said the same thing when I was behind a car about the hot air when I mentioned my temps had suddenly risen, the thought didn't occur to me!

[shane@mbtech]

I've never noticed high temps.

Mostly out in front though, maybe that's why :gayfight:

[shane@mbtech]

So shimmy why the water temp in the gauge drops so quickly is because it's just 1C difference between 3/4 and 1/2 (from 95C to drop to 94C).

Doubt that very much Alex.

[alexk]

Doubt that very much Alex.

I saw it a few times.
94c you are in the middle.
95c and you go to 3/4

[shimmy]

I saw it a few times.
94c you are in the middle.
95c and you go to 3/4

But then what takes it to the red?

[O'Neill]

But then what takes it to the red?

+1, also, if water temp becomes critical, is there a warning light.

[stevenEK9]

i was one of the people running electric fan with both OEM fans removed at DN10 and coolant temps were fine, highest i saw on track was 92 deg but generally it sat about 85

before heading out each session i ran it in the service menu so had the digital coolant readout on the dash

FYI the second dot on the analogue gauge is about 100 deg - this was about the highest i saw in the pit area due to heatsoak off the oil late in the day as by end of the day (did 20 laps) the oil was up near 125 deg after doing 4 laps on the trot, rest of the time oil sat about 115 at most

over winter I will be fitting a bimmerworld oil cooler, combined with the fluidyne rad & slim fan setup this should give the perfect setup on the track - Grant with the black CSL mentioned that his higher capacity oil cooler (HPF I think it was) made a massive difference in keeping the oil temps more stable at about the midway mark on the oem oil temp gauge. shouldn't need to worry about overcooling the oil either as there is a stat in the oil filter housing of the S54

[Graham]

How comes you aren't staying with the mishimoto rad?

[stevenEK9]

How comes you aren't staying with the mishimoto rad?

it's a mishimoto fan i've got fitted Graham, the rad is a Fluidyne/turner motorsports one :)

Ali's car showed that the oem rad is good enough (albeit mine helped keep temps down by a couple deg more)

so if you are looking for a good setup, I would do the same fan mod as us but with an upgraded oil cooler - grants car never had problems with coolant temps with all the oem fans in place, just goes to show how much the oil temps (which can sit about 125deg easy in oem trim) affect the coolant temps on these cars

[alexk]

But then what takes it to the red?

Above 100C which is an issue for this engine.
When you are in red, the red is iluminated behind so you know you have an issue.

Quoting from the E46 M3 user manual.


Between the blue and red zones
Normal operating range. The needle
may rise as far as the edge of the red
sector during normal operation.


I just start to wonder if we are being too sensitive with the temperature displayed ?
I personally had an issue with the radiator and viscous fan (again this one) but if BMW says it's normal to go up to where the red is starting (obviously not inside the red and the red lamp on), why should we worry if it's a bit above the middle ?

Putting this on the table as it has been troubling me for a long time.
Father says below 99C it's not a problem.

[Graham]

it's a mishimoto fan i've got fitted Graham, the rad is a Fluidyne/turner motorsports one :)

Ali's car showed that the oem rad is good enough (albeit mine helped keep temps down by a couple deg more)

so if you are looking for a good setup, I would do the same fan mod as us but with an upgraded oil cooler - grants car never had problems with coolant temps with all the oem fans in place, just goes to show how much the oil temps (which can sit about 125deg easy in oem trim) affect the coolant temps on these cars

Ah ok I'm with ya :)

I am looking into oil coolers now, they just seen pricey for the E46 M3 due to the shape, you can buy universal kits for half the price!

[shimmy]

it's a mishimoto fan i've got fitted Graham, the rad is a Fluidyne/turner motorsports one :)

Ali's car showed that the oem rad is good enough (albeit mine helped keep temps down by a couple deg more)

so if you are looking for a good setup, I would do the same fan mod as us but with an upgraded oil cooler - grants car never had problems with coolant temps with all the oem fans in place, just goes to show how much the oil temps (which can sit about 125deg easy in oem trim) affect the coolant temps on these cars


So you are saying OeM rad is good enough, I still think we have not found the issue that is causing this, just various ways if masking it, let's not forget this issue occurs at full speed, maximum airflow theoretically, maximum cooling.

Still think it could be an airflow issue. Also let's not forget the fans do not work at high speeds, they are turned off.

[alexk]

Next thing I am replacing is the temperature sensor.

But again, the manual says this is normal.

[shimmy]

Next thing I am replacing is the temperature sensor.

But again, the manual says this is normal.

Are you still having problems Alex after your fan and shroud delete?

[alexk]

Are you still having problems Alex after your fan and shroud delete?

The AC fan is off.
I have the clutch fan (I had another issue with the radiator) so until I find out the radiator was gone, I put back the clutch fan.
However, I have issue only on one road (tunnel) with low speed and it goes up to 96C.
It's so strange.

Saturday I will be in hot Monza so I will see if the car overheats or not.

[Ali M]

So you are saying OeM rad is good enough, I still think we have not found the issue that is causing this, just various ways if masking it, let's not forget this issue occurs at full speed, maximum airflow theoretically, maximum cooling.

Still think it could be an airflow issue. Also let's not forget the fans do not work at high speeds, they are turned off.

Yes, the OEM rad is good enough. I would even disagree with Steven's post about his rad keeping temps down a little bit more as mine never once budged from middle of analogue gauge - his did rise at one point although think he was using AC on track.

I also ran mine on service mode and temps were around 88 degrees when on it. Think highest was 92

Steven and I both agree that it is an airflow issue, hence removing the AUX fan and shroud. It has 100% worked on my car to solve the issue.

I could possibly improve it further with bigger oil cooler and water wetter but just removing viscous and AUX fans + adding electric 16" Mishimoto fan behind stock rad has done the job.

[Ali M]

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_3895_zps8e77c090.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_3895_zps8e77c090.jpg.html)


http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_3898_zps67486380.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_3898_zps67486380.jpg.html)


That is a lot of room for something to be taking up which is not even switched on above 88 ish mph

(Pic featuring StevenEK9 himself...)


http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_3897_zps6d9a5b26.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_3897_zps6d9a5b26.jpg.html)

So much more airflow to rads, oil cooler and PS cooler

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_3900_zpsa04be27b.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_3900_zpsa04be27b.jpg.html)


http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_3901_zps4af297e3.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_3901_zps4af297e3.jpg.html)


http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_3580_zps2f916110.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_3580_zps2f916110.jpg.html)

Mishimoto 16" fan was around £65 delivered

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_4069_zps3f0730e9.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_4069_zps3f0730e9.jpg.html)

Mounted. This is now run off the stock AUX fan controller (box with brown + blue wire) and functions as per the tables Alex (I think) posted earlier in thread. I.e. the ECU turns it on when it needs it. Have had the AC on full max fans at 16 degrees and the fan is still just enough to cool the car at standstill.

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_4070_zps264cf048.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_4070_zps264cf048.jpg.html)

Threads on waterpump sticking out where viscous has been removed.

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_4071_zps81a6d477.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_4071_zps81a6d477.jpg.html)


http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_4073_zps6b480ee5.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_4073_zps6b480ee5.jpg.html)

Cable tied stock AUX fan controller out of the way. Probably a better location but seemed easiest to me without extending stock wiring.

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_4072_zps0d96f923.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_4072_zps0d96f923.jpg.html)


http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq341/Ali_M24/IMG_4068_zpscd6c7056.jpg (http://s462.photobucket.com/user/Ali_M24/media/IMG_4068_zpscd6c7056.jpg.html)

[Gibbo]

Hi there

Was at Donnington recently in about 22-24c sunny weather.

My car over-heated for first time:-
Oil temperature was 115c-120c so no issue there, its never reached 125c marker.
But coolant temperature touched the red, backed off and within seconds it was back to half way mark.
This was after about 20 minutes on track with a lot of passing other cars so not clear air.

But I've changed a few things at once on my car which could account for this or maybe just hot weather:-

1. CSL airbox fitted.
2. Viscous fan removed
3. Under-drive pulleys fitted.

My car is running Evolve Alpha-N remap, has Milltek 100 cel cats!



Ali M so have you removed both AC Fan and the viscous fan and then fitted that 16" fan? How is your car on the road in traffic, does it overheat?

Where did you buy the fan from for £65, is it easy to fit and wire in?



P.S. Where did you get your sticker number plate done as I shall do that to help with air flow as well?

[shimmy]

My next simple mods might be to removed front plate holder and remove pollen filter housing and see if air flow improves.

[Graham]

So from reading what everyone is writing the front fan literally just helps aircon at standstill or slow traffic?
So you can get rid of that straight away with no modification?

Then to make it even better you take the viscous fan out and put a mishimoto 16" fan in and wire it in using the wiring from the front aux fan?

This seems like a pretty easy and cheap mod if so.

[Ali M]

Hi Gibbo,

Yes, removed both AC (AUX fan and shroud shown held up in the pics) and the viscous fan. No overheating issues in traffic or on the road.

The highest I saw it read was 95 degrees when it had been sitting idling for 15 mins with no airflow with the AC on max just to test. Ambient temp was around 26 degrees at the time. In this situation the thermostat was obviously fully open and the Mishimoto fan at 100% with the AUX / ECU controller working the fan to pull as much heat out as possible - which it did.

Normal day to day round town even with AC on it is on average mid 80's and in which case the thermostat shouldn't even be open yet. On a hot day I would expect it to rise above 88 at which point the thermostat will open to circulate through the rad. The AUX fan controller will then function the fan depending on temp provided it is less than 80+ mph (not sure magic number it turns off).

Anything over that 80+mph and 88 degrees when stat opens and think it is just airflow alone through the rads doing the cooling.

Fan bought from here and fits exactly to the lips on top and btm of stock rad for mounting. Think I used M4 or M5 bolts - http://www.mishimoto.co.uk/mishimoto-accessories-16-inch-fan.html


The number plate is an actual plate in legal font and although it is 3/4 size, it keeps the same height to width as legal font. Obviously opens up the airflow to front bumper a bit. Think it was from somewhere like 'fancy plates' or something. Never had an issue in 3 years running it from the BIB

[Ali M]

So from reading what everyone is writing the front fan literally just helps aircon at standstill or slow traffic?
So you can get rid of that straight away with no modification?

Then to make it even better you take the viscous fan out and put a mishimoto 16" fan in and wire it in using the wiring from the front aux fan?

This seems like a pretty easy and cheap mod if so.

Yes on the front AUX/AC fan as in, yes it just helps aircon & rad at standstill and slow speed.

However, I wouldn't recommend that this is removed on its own without fitting the new electric Mishimoto fan because I don't think the viscous fan would be anywhere near capable of pulling enough heat out of the rad with the AC on at slow vehicle speed.

I have heard of people removing viscous but keeping the AUX fan and no issues. However, I have not heard of anyone removing the AUX and just keeping viscous. Probably because the car will overheat pretty quickly.

IMO removing the AUX should go in hand with fitting the new electric fan (in this case a Mishimoto). It is doing the same job but it is just doing it as a 'puller' rather than a pusher. Acting as a puller fan has the advantage of not blocking all the airflow while at high speed.

Yes, just use stock wiring. Just stripped and crimped spade connectors and then it is done.

[Gibbo]

Thanks Ali

Any weight saving from changing AC fan to the 16" one?

Maybe that was my issue on track too as I was running with AC on, so does the engine run cooler with AC off when on track then?

I will also do as Shimmy says and when on track will remove front number plate/holder and the pollen filter housing.

[alexk]

I removed the AUX fan and kept the viscus fan.
It's good enough for the non-AC CSL, so it's good enough for my car (I don't run the AC while stopped).

Why are you saying 88C for the thermostat ?
The S54 thermostat is 80C.

I like the electric fan installation.
I will try it on my car too for performance reasons.

Shimmy > the rubber sealing on the top of the bonnet should be sufficient to release the hot air from the engine bay.
I had done this on my Z3 and the intake manifold temperature decrease was shocking to say the least (from 55-60C down to 30C, with 26C ambient temperature).

[Ali M]

I removed the AUX fan and kept the viscus fan.
It's good enough for the non-AC CSL, so it's good enough for my car (I don't run the AC while stopped).

Why are you saying 88C for the thermostat ?
The S54 thermostat is 80C.

I like the electric fan installation.
I will try it on my car too for performance reasons.

Shimmy > the rubber sealing on the top of the bonnet should be sufficient to release the hot air from the engine bay.
I had done this on my Z3 and the intake manifold temperature decrease was shocking to say the least (from 55-60C down to 30C, with 26C ambient temperature).

I think I remember you saying on here you got a look at a non-AC CSL which has no AUX fan. So it is obviously ok with just viscous as long as no AC running when stopped.

Gibbo - Pretty sure it will run hotter with the AC on. Only 'test' I have done is leaving the car idling with AC on max blower and lowest temp on climate control (16 degrees) and had the digital readout on test mode on instrument cluster set to record the coolant temps.

It went up to 95 degrees and certainly sounded like the new electric fan was at max. I then turned the AC off and watched the temps plummet to 85 degrees.

That was enough for me to decide not to run the AC on track and in my head it seems safer having less strain on ancillaries when at max revs on track anyway.

Personally, I went from driving on track with the heater on max temp and full fan with me sweating buckets to now just driving with climate set to 16 degrees but no AC. That is enough for me and can live with no ac on track.

[shane@mbtech]

Yes on the front AUX/AC fan as in, yes it just helps aircon & rad at standstill and slow speed.

However, I wouldn't recommend that this is removed on its own without fitting the new electric Mishimoto fan because I don't think the viscous fan would be anywhere near capable of pulling enough heat out of the rad with the AC on at slow vehicle speed.

I have heard of people removing viscous but keeping the AUX fan and no issues. However, I have not heard of anyone removing the AUX and just keeping viscous. Probably because the car will overheat pretty quickly.

IMO removing the AUX should go in hand with fitting the new electric fan (in this case a Mishimoto). It is doing the same job but it is just doing it as a 'puller' rather than a pusher. Acting as a puller fan has the advantage of not blocking all the airflow while at high speed.

Yes, just use stock wiring. Just stripped and crimped spade connectors and then it is done.

Non ac car has viscous and no electric fan. Never overheats.

[shane@mbtech]

My non AC CSL never had a cooling issue, said this for years.

Remove that fecking great big fan blocking the flow.

[Gibbo]

Non ac car has viscous and no electric fan. Never overheats.

Cool suspect my issue was maybe having the AC on then whilst on track.

I shall remove the AC fan and the viscous fan and install the electric fan like Ali has done.

Shall also remove front plate and pollen filter housing on track and not use AC, should have no issues then fingers crossed. :)

[Ali M]

Remove that fecking great big fan blocking the flow.

Yes but would fit electric puller if you still want to be able to use AC while stationary / slow traffic....

...or just do as Alex does and be prepared to not use AC unless moving.

Cool suspect my issue was maybe having the AC on then whilst on track.

Issue was probably having the big AC/AUX fan blocking flow but then double hard on the system also running AC.



I shall remove the AC fan and the viscous fan and install the electric fan like Ali has done.

Shall also remove front plate and pollen filter housing on track and not use AC, should have no issues then fingers crossed. :)

Should be sweet after that. Was using all the rev's at Nurburgring last week, not having to lift off/short shift :smokin:

[Graham]

Thanks Ali, very informative :-) I am going to order the mishimoto 16" fan and remove the aux fan and viscous fan. Did you clean up your radiator whilst you were there? Unsure whether you can jetwash them.
Have you any closer pics of the wiring you did?

So my understanding is correct with no aux or viscous fan but with 16" moshimoto fan you can use car as normal, AC on idle or on track?

[alexk]

Shimmy and all I noticed something else when I removed the AUX fan.
The AC fan has a 'plastic' coating that makes it look black.
At various points the 'plastic' material has seperated from the metal one.
In my opinion, this is blocking the airflow as the dimension of the holes is reduced.
This could explain why some cars overheat that didn't overheat in the past (provided that you have eliminated the water radiator, water pump, thermostat).

A test could be that you remove the AC radiator and try again ;)

[billyboysm3]

As per my build thread we installed electric fan and electric switch on the M3 last week, removed front fan and aircon, was on track all day yesterday at 25• and had no overheating issues with oil or water, oil sat just above 100 and water was just under half, but was shifting at 6k revs.

This is installed on the 328 also and she never overheats.

[billyboysm3]

The electric switch, switches the fan:

Switch on temp - approx 90degC

Switch off temp - approx 80degC

[Gibbo]

As per my build thread we installed electric fan and electric switch on the M3 last week, removed front fan and aircon, was on track all day yesterday at 25• and had no overheating issues with oil or water, oil sat just above 100 and water was just under half, but was shifting at 6k revs.

This is installed on the 328 also and she never overheats.


Is your electric fan installed in same position as Ali M's?

[stevenEK9]

Thanks Ali, very informative :-) I am going to order the mishimoto 16" fan and remove the aux fan and viscous fan. Did you clean up your radiator whilst you were there? Unsure whether you can jetwash them.
Have you any closer pics of the wiring you did?

So my understanding is correct with no aux or viscous fan but with 16" moshimoto fan you can use car as normal, AC on idle or on track?

:smt107 just run an open hose through it to clear it out, the fins are quite fragile to even trying an air line on it

but you are correct, AC will still function fine with the above mentioned configuration

[shane@mbtech]

Said this many times before on here.

Yes but would fit electric puller if you still want to be able to use AC while stationary / slow traffic....

...or just do as Alex does and be prepared to not use AC unless moving.



Issue was probably having the big AC/AUX fan blocking flow but then double hard on the system also running AC.




Should be sweet after that. Was using all the rev's at Nurburgring last week, not having to lift off/short shift :smokin:

[Graham]

:smt107 just run an open hose through it to clear it out, the fins are quite fragile to even trying an air line on it

but you are correct, AC will still function fine with the above mentioned configuration

That's why I asked before doing it :hahaha:

Awesome. I am looking at Kenlowe fans aswell

[Trawler]

Have standard exhaust but thought you may be interested n the temps during a track day at Donnington.

Ambient temp as recorded on the on board computer 31.5 deg C
Water temp. Dead centre and needle did not move
Oil temp, just below 125 deg C

Air con was set at 17 and did not switch it off

[Graham]

I started this today...

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/GrahamVFR/BMW%20M3/Cooling/45862132-774B-45B7-B157-9C7EE29CD792.jpg (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/GrahamVFR/media/BMW%20M3/Cooling/45862132-774B-45B7-B157-9C7EE29CD792.jpg.html)

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/GrahamVFR/BMW%20M3/Cooling/001FA481-5314-48BE-8B10-6771BD52F506.jpg (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/GrahamVFR/media/BMW%20M3/Cooling/001FA481-5314-48BE-8B10-6771BD52F506.jpg.html)

Had trouble removing the viscous fan so might have to make a removal tool

[khooni]

per Simpson, even though AC was removed on my CSL, they left the AC fan because it would switch on above 90C and in their opinion would be more beneficial than taking it off although like in a non ac car.

I have also installed a brand new oil cooler because the oil one was shot and oil temps got to 125C on a spirited run although the water temps never increased beyond the middle. Will be out on Brands 10 nov to see how well it copes.

[shane@mbtech]

Non AC car only has viscous fan.

[derek]

Never had temp issues with csl on track, m3 oil and water temp high, fitted oil divertor value, motorsport thermostat and viscous fan car has no temp issues now. Cheap fix.

[shimmy]

http://m.mishimoto.co.uk/bmw-e46-m3-performance-aluminum-fan-shroud-kit-01-06.html

Looks interesting

[Gibbo]

http://m.mishimoto.co.uk/bmw-e46-m3-performance-aluminum-fan-shroud-kit-01-06.html

Looks interesting


Ive got one of their fans and have it wired into the AC control. I've removed all other fans including viscous fan, oil and water temps reduced. :)

When they mention clutch fan, I assume they mean viscous fan?

[ripper46]

Never any issues on previous csl but had temp issues with latest m3 on hot days, I also fitted oil diverter valve from CA, fitted alloy rad from driftworks, motorsport stat cured all issue's, I have previously removed ac completely, even after fitting charger im still not having any issue's with oil or water temps , :thumbs:

[shimmy]

Never any issues on previous csl but had temp issues with latest m3 on hot days, I also fitted oil diverter valve from CA, fitted alloy rad from driftworks, motorsport stat cured all issue's, I have previously removed ac completely, even after fitting charger im still not having any issue's with oil or water temps , :thumbs:


did you get temp issues after removing AC?

[ripper46]

did you get temp issues after removing AC?

I did on hot days, the oil divertor made a big difference, as you said the oil and water temps affect each other to a degree, after fitting the divertor valve I had no more issue's, I fitted the rad and stat in prep for the charger
Recomend the oil diverter for track use, for £55, great little mod,

[alexk]

Very interesting.

I solved the issue using only OEM parts.
Are these aftermarket parts necessary ?

[shimmy]

Very interesting.

I solved the issue using only OEM parts.
Are these aftermarket parts necessary ?

alex, im not sure you ever had the same issue did you? Wasnt your overheating with different symtpons to mine?

[derek]

Very interesting.

I solved the issue using only OEM parts.
Are these aftermarket parts necessary ?
I never had any issues with csl overheating but did have issues with M3. I fitted oil divertor valve, BMW motorsport viscous fan and thermostat. Made a big difference no overheating now.

[alexk]

I never had any issues with csl overheating but did have issues with M3. I fitted oil divertor valve, BMW motorsport viscous fan and thermostat. Made a big difference no overheating now.

hi

what is the part number of the motorsport viscous fan ?

[derek]

hi

what is the part number of the motorsport viscous fan ?
Contact roy at Ca automotive that's where I bought it