subframe fixes

[monkeycsl]

Hi what do you guys suggest to stop subframe cracks ie powerflex subframe bushes which are larger diameter to spread the load better and the resin injected into the chassis void to stiffen it up.Has anybody done this,pros and cons and costs would be handy.cheers worried because goodwill will be finishing at 10 yrs so not long and i have two to worry about now.Also has anybody had the strengthening kit fitted and what was the cost.:thumbs:

[NZ_M3]

I voluntarily fitted the BMW official epoxy fix into my car - even though mine has no cracks - quite simply because if you've seen the way the rear floor is designed you will realise that having such a large void space in between the sheet metal that forms the rear floor exacerbates torque stress transfer - and overtime it will tear it out.

Personally I am not a fan of welding extra plates into the rear floor (rust proofing is a big issue as there are areas you simply can't get to) - I've seen failures even with the plates in place - this is because it is a band-aid fix versus a load transfer fix.

By filling the void within the floor space transfers the torque load to a much larger area and most importantly above the floor to the secondary sheet metal that forms the ridge carrier - further the epoxy used has a dampening effect as it is not completely solid. It is a proven product used in Formula 3 race car suspension repairs.

I also don't believe in having a larger subframe bushing footprint helps - as this is no different to having a larger washer in between the subrame and the floor.

The problem is more related to the floor having a void thus allowing it to flex more so than the foot print of the mounting.

I can tell you for a fact that having the epoxy in the floor makes a very noticeable difference to the rear floor rigidity - and that's in a car with KW race 2 ways and 14kg/mm springs. I am not the only CSL owner in NZ with this in the floor and all have noted how noticeably different the rear felt post the epoxy install.

[monkeycsl]

Will be getting the resin injected into my crack then pardon the pun.the bmw bushes have. A raised lip which puts pressure on a small area but the power flex ones are flat so they must help.

[s.mac]

Any links on how to do this Tom?? Sounds like its worth doing

[pinkpanther008]

Monkey, did i hear you say 'two' now thats just greddy!:whistle: You had yourself some twins or did you chuck in the heavey 32 and got another M-car?:supz:

Let me know of any joy you have with the epoxy resin lead?

PP:beer:

[Rager54]

Will be getting the resin injected into my crack then pardon the pun.the bmw bushes have. A raised lip which puts pressure on a small area but the power flex ones are flat so they must help.

Does anyone know where I can get this done? (No gay jokes please:-D)

[monkeycsl]

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=710760 check this link out.Yes pink panther i am greedy and need two sg m3's in my life.R32 for sale so have 3 thirsty mouths to feed and a little one named jessica too.:supz:

[s.mac]

Cheers :)

[NZ_M3]

Will be getting the resin injected into my crack then pardon the pun.the bmw bushes have. A raised lip which puts pressure on a small area but the power flex ones are flat so they must help.

If you look at online photos of cracks and really significant failures you will see that the cracks usually develop around the actual bush mounting - often when it tears it also tears an area larger than weld in plates out. The worst one I've seen with welded plates in was on a car where rust proofing failed and it basically dropped the whole floor out of the car - very nasty.

Bear in mind that the subframe bushings are there to act as a damper, so by enlarging the foot print area and going to a harder bushing you are transfering a higher load into the floor, thus eliminating any benefits you might gain out of the larger foot print (if it even helps at all)

Any links on how to do this Tom?? Sounds like its worth doing

Monkeycsl beat me to it ....

Few things to remember about this fix :

1. it is the 'official' BMW recommended repair if the floor cracks are less than 25mm (basically they drill out the end of the crack to stop it spreading, weld the crack itself, and then inject this epoxy).

2. If the floor is replaced by BMW, the secondary repair requires that this epoxy be injected to prevent future tear (I've taken this as to mean that it is considered a secondary preventative fix designed by BMW to prevent this from happening in the future).

3. The epoxy is only injected into the rear two mounting spots - if you want to you can also do the front two mounting points - these can be accessed via the rear seat belt belt clip bolt holes - just make sure you don't squirt too much in those thus making it impossible to reinstall your seatbelt belt clips. Personally I only did the rear two mounting points as this is considered sufficient by BMW.

For the cost of the epoxy and foam, I am of the opinion that it is a worth while preventative maintenance to do on the car - and you don't run into rust issues in the future. It also looks very original after the injection (you are only drilling one hole in the middle of the floor ridge afterall - and a plastic bung is provided with the kit to seal this to make it look factory).

NB - very important to not move the car for at least 24 hours after you've injected the stuff ... leave it for two days if the weather is warm.

[Niel333]

I also need to do this to my car, its got a crack bigger than 25mm but replacing a boot floor in SA is not really an option. I have ordered the turnermotorsport kit and the cavity foam, but my local dealership cant get the structuring foam no 83 420 307 530.... is there a replacement that I can use?

[DuncanR]

Discovered this crack last week, is this in the right area to be classified as the usual type of cracking. Bear in mind that my car is caged albeit the cage does NOT pick up onto the turrets, which is a shame.
The bottom pictures is taken from the Offside of a UK car, looking out and up towards the wheel , its on a seam, under normal circumatnces I would drill the end myself now to stop it going further, which it may have done after this week-end ! But as its under warranty still Im loathe to do so. Thoughts oh wise expereinced crack heads

[DuncanR]

Also, can someone clear up the confusion re subframe and/or floor pan, people seem to generalise and refer to "subframe cracks" whereas mine are clearly floor pan/body, is it the case that the actual subframe itself also gets cracks ?

[shimmy]

Also, can someone clear up the confusion re subframe and/or floor pan, people seem to generalise and refer to "subframe cracks" whereas mine are clearly floor pan/body, is it the case that the actual subframe itself also gets cracks ?

No Dunc, they are cracks in the bottom floor pan mainly, not the subframe. They start near to the subframe mounting points typically

[DuncanR]

No Dunc, they are cracks in the bottom floor pan mainly, not the subframe. They start near to the subframe mounting points typicallyGareth ! do I need to "borrow" Shimmys stock suspension before I bring car into Elms ?:(

[The Gorilla]

Hi,

DuncanR- I think your Internal Scaffolding
might raise more than an eyebrow for
a structural claim.

Looking at your Pics, if you have
to self repair, then its not that bad
on the face of it.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

[Niel333]

I managed to get resin but its coming from Germany and its going to cost me to get it here, do I have to get 2 for just a left side crack or is one enough?

[s.mac]

looks like the suspension could do with cleaning, greasing and springs powder coating :whistle:

Gareth how much do BMW charge to apply the resin to the correct places??
not sure I would DIY

[monkeycsl]

I voluntarily fitted the BMW official epoxy fix into my car - even though mine has no cracks - quite simply because if you've seen the way the rear floor is designed you will realise that having such a large void space in between the sheet metal that forms the rear floor exacerbates torque stress transfer - and overtime it will tear it out.

Personally I am not a fan of welding extra plates into the rear floor (rust proofing is a big issue as there are areas you simply can't get to) - I've seen failures even with the plates in place - this is because it is a band-aid fix versus a load transfer fix.

By filling the void within the floor space transfers the torque load to a much larger area and most importantly above the floor to the secondary sheet metal that forms the ridge carrier - further the epoxy used has a dampening effect as it is not completely solid. It is a proven product used in Formula 3 race car suspension repairs.

I also don't believe in having a larger subframe bushing footprint helps - as this is no different to having a larger washer in between the subrame and the floor.

The problem is more related to the floor having a void thus allowing it to flex more so than the foot print of the mounting.

I can tell you for a fact that having the epoxy in the floor makes a very noticeable difference to the rear floor rigidity - and that's in a car with KW race 2 ways and 14kg/mm springs. I am not the only CSL owner in NZ with this in the floor and all have noted how noticeably different the rear felt post the epoxy install.


I agree with the solid bushes not helping to damp the forces but the bmw bushes appear to have a raised lip around the edge which seems to put excess pressure in a small surface area,why are they not flat to mate upto chassis?Do you think if there is no crack then the resin both sides will stop further cracks appearing?:notworthy:
Also you said you did both sides is it a repeat of first step and do you have to drill a 10 mm hole on offside as there is not one there like on the nearside hope this makes sense cheers.

[NZ_M3]

Christ Duncan that doesn't look too good. The other car I spoke about earlier in the post where the whole floor came apart had exactly the same type of body fractures like yours - are you running solid rear subframe mounts? :bigcry:

Unforunately Duncan, your car is a good illustration of what I have been saying for a while - that the stress cracks aren't isolated to the mounting floor pan itself - i.e. it is to do with the load being carried incorrectly through the body structure, cause premature fatigue fractures (i.e. the void in the bottom floor sheet metal).

I'd get that welded up ASAP before it drops the whole floor out of the car (which it will).


Neil333 - one tube is enough to do both rear mounts - If you are doing the fronts, then you need two.


I agree with the solid bushes not helping to damp the forces but the bmw bushes appear to have a raised lip around the edge which seems to put excess pressure in a small surface area,why are they not flat to mate upto chassis?Do you think if there is no crack then the resin both sides will stop further cracks appearing?:notworthy:
Also you said you did both sides is it a repeat of first step and do you have to drill a 10 mm hole on offside as there is not one there like on the nearside hope this makes sense cheers.

I honestly don't believe the raised lip has anything to do with the fractures - this is not an impact failure where the bushes are moving around so much that they are pulling out of the chassis - but rather a torque load transfer being carried incorrectly through the car causing premature fatigue stress fractures. Like I said, if the lip had anything to do with it, then a quick and easy fix by BMW would have been to simply wack a couple of 3mm washers in between the subframe and the chassis floor - they haven't done that because it is not related to it. Just look at the way Duncan's car is coming apart.


You only drill one hole - in the middle of the floor ridge - the resin is injected into pre-existing holes on the left and right side of that (not the first layer, but the second layer skin - lot of people get this wrong and inject it into the incorrect cavity space).

The link you posted where the guy cut open the sound proofing is incorrect - he was trying to get to the front mounts also - you actually get to those through the front seatbelt mounts - the rear mounts are done through existing holes in the chassis floor (covered by plastic bungs).

[monkeycsl]

Christ Duncan that doesn't look too good. The other car I spoke about earlier in the post where the whole floor came apart had exactly the same type of body fractures like yours - are you running solid rear subframe mounts? :bigcry:

Unforunately Duncan, your car is a good illustration of what I have been saying for a while - that the stress cracks aren't isolated to the mounting floor pan itself - i.e. it is to do with the load being carried incorrectly through the body structure, cause premature fatigue fractures (i.e. the void in the bottom floor sheet metal).

I'd get that welded up ASAP before it drops the whole floor out of the car (which it will).


Neil333 - one tube is enough to do both rear mounts - If you are doing the fronts, then you need two.




I honestly don't believe the raised lip has anything to do with the fractures - this is not an impact failure where the bushes are moving around so much that they are pulling out of the chassis - but rather a torque load transfer being carried incorrectly through the car causing premature fatigue stress fractures. Like I said, if the lip had anything to do with it, then a quick and easy fix by BMW would have been to simply wack a couple of 3mm washers in between the subframe and the chassis floor - they haven't done that because it is not related to it. Just look at the way Duncan's car is coming apart.


You only drill one hole - in the middle of the floor ridge - the resin is injected into pre-existing holes on the left and right side of that (not the first layer, but the second layer skin - lot of people get this wrong and inject it into the incorrect cavity space).

The link you posted where the guy cut open the sound proofing is incorrect - he was trying to get to the front mounts also - you actually get to those through the front seatbelt mounts - the rear mounts are done through existing holes in the chassis floor (covered by plastic bungs).
Thanks for that will do both sides. did you do front part too.I also heard the audi rs4 battery tray gets same treatment with the two part epoxy and its half the cost of the bmw stuff but prob a different type so wont risk it cheers again.

[azrael]

I think BMW should be doing this as a preventative fix. If people do it themselves and get it wrong I'm sure BMW would use that as an excuse.

[DuncanR]

looks like the suspension could do with cleaning, greasing and springs powder coating :whistle:

You are joking mate !!! :birdman:

- are you running solid rear subframe mounts? :bigcry: Just OEM with limiters .. I think.

Unforunately Duncan, your car is a good illustration of what I have been saying for a while - that the stress cracks aren't isolated to the mounting floor pan itself - i.e. it is to do with the load being carried incorrectly through the body structure, cause premature fatigue fractures (i.e. the void in the bottom floor sheet metal).

I'd get that welded up ASAP before it drops the whole floor out of the car (which it will).Good job I sit up front then !:119:

[dave wilkinson]

duncan there not the usual types of cracks you see tbo. possible caused due to your cage/suspension. i'd make sure you swop your suspension over as even if you dealer is on your side. when they take pics and send them to bmw uk the coilovers may just be seen and you'll get rejected.
alot of the bmw dealers are ok with mods ect, the dealer who did mine even fitted a limiter kit before it was kds'd.

[Niel333]

[QUOTE=NZ_M3;111113]


Neil333 - one tube is enough to do both rear mounts - If you are doing the fronts, then you need two.


Thanks for the info, its much appreciated!

[monkeycsl]

[quote=NZ_M3;111113]


Neil333 - one tube is enough to do both rear mounts - If you are doing the fronts, then you need two.


Thanks for the info, its much appreciated!

Im confused now if i want to do both left and right side of car will one tube of epoxy do both or do you need one for the left and one for the right.The bmw instuctions just say to pump the whole lot onto left void as they dont do the right side,just wondering as i need to do two cars and maybe pinkpanthers so dont want to order too many.:whistle:

[monkeycsl]

Ok I have prices £55 for expanding foam enough to do prob 2000 cars £145 each tube of structuring foam so two of these for one car.£345 to do one car.does any one know of alternative or opinion on asking bmw to do it free as its their problem too!:smt064

[alexk]

What is the part number guys ?

[monkeycsl]

cavity foam 83429410694 x1
structuring foam 83420307530 x2 for left and right side.
10mm plug 51711906001
Need to get these but will cost £650 to do both cars :mad:

[alexk]

cavity foam 83429410694 x1
structuring foam 83420307530 x2 for left and right side.
10mm plug 51711906001
Need to get these but will cost £650 to do both cars :mad:

Thanks.

Ι could sort a deal if more people are interested.

[monkeycsl]

Please do :notworthy:

[Rager54]

Thanks.

Ι could sort a deal if more people are interested.

I would be interested.....

[monkeycsl]

Cant believe more dont want to do this could save a massive repair.:(

[s.mac]

I'm waiting for Alex to let us know what he's thinking :)

[Niel333]

Cant believe more dont want to do this could save a massive repair.:(

I would but it will be a nightmare getting it to me....

[alexk]

I can get the following prices for the 3 of us :

cavity foam 83429410694 = 60 EUR
structuring foam 83420307530 = 125 EUR
10mm plug 51711906001 = 0.14 EUR

So the cost for one car is 310.14 EUR
Shipment to UK another 25 EUR
Total : 335 EUR

If more people are interested (>10) we can get a better price.
In this case I could open a new thread with the list of people that want to order.

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Where is this stuff put and will it stop subframe issues :whistle: if so could be interested

[alexk]

Where is this stuff put and will it stop subframe issues :whistle: if so could be interested

I will find the TIS instructions.

[alexk]

I will find the TIS instructions.

Here it is http://clubcsl.com/CSL/e46_subframe_tis.pdf

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Thanks for the link, it was as clear as mud :( who can do this any BMW garage :whistle:

[Mark CSL]

I have warranty for when mines cracks it was in for an inspection and all is good :thumbs:

Good Show Alex on the group buy :thumbs:

[monkeycsl]

I contacted elms today and spoke to Gareth,they will do it there for about £350 all in and maybe better if more of us get together and use them.not bad considering how much the stuff costs.:beer:

[CraigMillwardCroft]

I contacted elms today and spoke to Gareth,they will do it there for about £350 all in and maybe better if more of us get together and use them.not bad considering how much the stuff costs.:beer:

Could be interested if ELM's do it :thumbs:

[JezP]

Could be interested if ELM's do it :thumbs:

same here

[monkeycsl]

Names down then and we will see what sort of deal they can do for us :)

Monkeycsl
Monkey non csl but normal m3

[JezP]

Im gonna get mine up on a ramp and check before i commit prolly next weekend

[RonBurgandy]

Thats gotta be a worthy job to have done even if its not cracked yet, i'll have a plus 1

[mattCSLnut]

Could be interested if ELM's do it :thumbs:
I think there is something in the pipelines :whistle: Hopefully Gareth will tell us more, near the time.

[AlexGTT]

Stick me on the list boys. I'll have some of this.:)

[giraffe]

I contacted elms today and spoke to Gareth,they will do it there for about £350 all in and maybe better if more of us get together and use them.not bad considering how much the stuff costs.:beer:
Dont no if it will be much cheaper but will see how we get on , just to let you all no the car cant be driven for 24 hours after it has been added .

[s.mac]

24 hrs Gareth ????
what do you mean, I normally wait 6 months in between drives :gayfight:

[Bounce]

24 hrs Gareth ????
what do you mean, I normally wait 6 months in between drives :gayfight::hahaha::hahaha:

[giraffe]

24 hrs Gareth ????
what do you mean, I normally wait 6 months in between drives :gayfight:
:hahaha::hahaha: good point you wont have to worry then :-D

[bluebro]

The injection process can be done for under £300 here http://www.mprovesolutions.com/services.html

[s.mac]

was this discussed at Elms on the Saturday open day ???
what's the story ? any updates?

[karbonkid]

Found a series of vids giving a good view of the subframe issues.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHgQBvAJaqY&feature=player_embedded#

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aK6ZYBnUEVk&feature=channel&list=UL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFFCPxDBNaQ&feature=channel&list=UL

[s.mac]

Great vid Alex, it's front as well then

[Yanto]

I can get the following prices for the 3 of us :

cavity foam 83429410694 = 60 EUR
structuring foam 83420307530 = 125 EUR
10mm plug 51711906001 = 0.14 EUR

So the cost for one car is 310.14 EUR
Shipment to UK another 25 EUR
Total : 335 EUR

If more people are interested (>10) we can get a better price.
In this case I could open a new thread with the list of people that want to order.

Can we lock in a Euro price now for 2013 work ? :-D

[s.mac]

getting done at Elms :thumbs:

The injection process can be done for under £300 here

not much more and get the bmw invoice and stamp of approval :beer:

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Has anybody got a price for ELM's to do it yet :whistle:

[s.mac]

Mines in there now getting done, for the money it's not worth having possible woes in the future, just a tad more than the independent and that includes vat :):)

[Bounce]

Mines in there now getting done, for the money it's not worth having possible woes in the future, just a tad more than the independent and that includes vat :):)Think I'll get this done when I'm up there for a service.Sounds like good value if it does stop the cracking.They will probably all crack eventually,except for the garage queens:(

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Mines in there now getting done, for the money it's not worth having possible woes in the future, just a tad more than the independent and that includes vat :):)
What is the price ELM's are doing it for as want to get mine done soon :whistle:

[azrael]

What is the price ELM's are doing it for as want to get mine done soon :whistle:

Under £300 see post #58 above

So I guess you can pick a price :-D

[JezP]

I wanna get this done also is it best to ask for you gareth or the famous emma?

Jez

[Pip1968]

I wanna get this done also is it best to ask for you gareth or the famous emma?

Jez

Did someone say "famous Emma" not to be confused with infamous of course.

Any pictures?

Pip :-D

[dave wilkinson]

this is just a prevention not a cure. my personal view is wait until your car is roughly 3 months off the 10 year cut off point for goodwill/new floor replacement. get it checked if you get the all clear get the injection done. most of our cars arn't ten years old till next year so your worrying about it slighly to early :thumbs:

[Niel333]

If you havent done it, do yourself a favour and get it done, even if there are no cracks, its a huge mission to fix it if its too late.

I repaired my cars cracks this week. I think the floor should have been replaced but due to lack of skilled workshops and because I couldnt find anybody around here that has done it, I did it myself.

I got the turner plates and I did the Structure/cavity foam. Drove it with the rear seats out after letting it stand for 30hrs and heard a squeek (another crack below the rear seats) welded that up and finally its solid again...

I wish I just did the foam before all the cracks. If one mount fails it puts huge preasure on the rest untill they also fail....
I have pics to prove it.....

Left rear mounthttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI1LTAwMTQ5LmpwZw.jpg

Right Front mounthttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI1LTAwMTQ2LmpwZw.jpg

Left rear http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI2LTAwMTUyLmpwZw.jpg

right fronthttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI2LTAwMTUzLmpwZw.jpg

After weldinghttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI4LTAwMTU4LmpwZw.jpghttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI4LTAwMTU3LmpwZw.jpg

After sealant and Primerhttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI4LTAwMTU5LmpwZw.jpg

Inside cracks where squeek came fromhttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTMwLTAwMTY1LmpwZw.jpghttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTMwLTAwMTY3LmpwZw.jpg

I am also going to fill cavity's right under the inside weld with a hard rubber compound just to be safe.

[e46m3c]

Interesting

I posted a thread on cutters as im in the process of preparing the car for a few trackdays.

http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=52533&highlight=subframe

The Gist on there is that perhaps the Resin isnt sufficient? And is no longer BMW's answer,

Has anyone run the Resin only for a significant period of time including some trackdays to see if it holds up?

[Niel333]

If Bmw does the resin after they replace the axle carrier then I suppose its a good way of preventing it in the first place.

Its good to see that by welding the cracks makes it as strong as before, but its the rust that worries me because all the rustproofing melted away with welding. With the reinforcement plates also welded in, you wont see rust untill its way too late....

I just filled as much cavities as possible with the expanding foam... Dont know if it will help!!

[e46m3c]

Sounds like the best case then is catch it before it happens. expoxy the plates on and fill the cavity with foam.

[monkeycsl]

Yes I also agree epoxy plates on rather than weld but drill crack to stop it spreading.

[Pip1968]

I have not read all the posts on this topic but just thought I would add this that I came across today on PH.

http://www.mprovesolutions.com/services.html

Epoxy resin injection ("both sides") from £295

and

Panel reinforcement and epoxy resin price on asking

They seem to be in Cheshire where ever that is :whistle:.

Pip

[CraigMillwardCroft]

I have not read all the posts on this topic but just thought I would add this that I came across today on PH.

http://www.mprovesolutions.com/services.html

Epoxy resin injection ("both sides") from £295

and

Panel reinforcement and epoxy resin price on asking

They seem to be in Cheshire where ever that is :whistle:.

Pip
Warrington is actually a nice area for up North :whistle:

[alexk]

So guys did anyone installed the BMW kit ?

[el buta]

If you havent done it, do yourself a favour and get it done, even if there are no cracks, its a huge mission to fix it if its too late.

I repaired my cars cracks this week. I think the floor should have been replaced but due to lack of skilled workshops and because I couldnt find anybody around here that has done it, I did it myself.

I got the turner plates and I did the Structure/cavity foam. Drove it with the rear seats out after letting it stand for 30hrs and heard a squeek (another crack below the rear seats) welded that up and finally its solid again...

I wish I just did the foam before all the cracks. If one mount fails it puts huge preasure on the rest untill they also fail....
I have pics to prove it.....

Left rear mounthttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI1LTAwMTQ5LmpwZw.jpg

Right Front mounthttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI1LTAwMTQ2LmpwZw.jpg

Left rear http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI2LTAwMTUyLmpwZw.jpg

right fronthttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI2LTAwMTUzLmpwZw.jpg

After weldinghttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI4LTAwMTU4LmpwZw.jpghttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI4LTAwMTU3LmpwZw.jpg

After sealant and Primerhttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTI4LTAwMTU5LmpwZw.jpg

Inside cracks where squeek came fromhttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTMwLTAwMTY1LmpwZw.jpghttp://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/nielnel333/utf-8BSU1HLTIwMTIwNTMwLTAwMTY3LmpwZw.jpg

I am also going to fill cavity's right under the inside weld with a hard rubber compound just to be safe.


In e46 M3 o E46 CSL ?

[s.mac]

it happens to both M3 and m3csl (and could happen to Jims CS) . It looks like they change the full boot floor pan, although I haven't had chance to look under the car to check out the full BMW warranty fix

[Loaded]

Oh I did not know that it can create such big trouble.

[alexk]

So guys did anyone installed the BMW kit ?

So did anyone put the foam fix ?

[Steve B]

I had mine doen last month at BMW....

This is what the replacement panel looks like.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/Steve@RSx/4mQy5cku.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/Steve@RSx/bodybuilding2.jpg

[Bounce]

it happens to both M3 and m3csl (and could happen to Jims CS) . It looks like they change the full boot floor pan, although I haven't had chance to look under the car to check out the full BMW warranty fixIt can happen to all E46,even some 316i have been fixed.;)

[Neil M]

It's a bit of a poor do when you consider this is a inherent design fault which applies across the complete E46 range, from the lowliest 316i to the CSL. Mine is in for a thorough check over :119: and MOT on the 14th.

Looking at those original pics of Neil333, I have to admit that it scares the cr_p out of me. :(

[alexk]

I have a bit of rust under my fuel tank.

I will take it to fix the rust.
:119:

[mattCSLnut]

It can happen to all E46,even some 316i have been fixed.;)
He's NOT wrong :smt009 ... for once ;)

[CraigMillwardCroft]

He's NOT wrong :smt009 ... for once ;)
:hahaha::hahaha::hahaha:

[Bounce]

He's NOT wrong :smt009 ... for once ;):birdman::blalalala:

[Neil M]

Warrington is actually a nice area for up North :whistle:

eh up chuck - are you on a retainer from Lawsy? :supz:
Warrington is the armpit of Cheshire and far removed for Clarksons Jaaaaag Country.
In fact there a lot of Cheshire Maps that don't even acknowledge its existence.:whistle:

For the geographically challenged :119: here's one that does: