My car is sick

[rstoughy]

Have a problem with the traction control,
It seems to be cutting in viciously all the time i.e under soft acceleration say at 70 - 80. Also going round bends, round abouts etc driving normally i may add with the missus and daughter in the car.
Dry roads, warm weather, tyres ok....im stumped.

Its been doing it for a couple of days now and seems to be getting worse.

Anyone seen this sort of thing before?

Going to get it booked in to the dealers for a check over but just checking to see if anyone else has had this.
Might be linked to my dash light problem back in July when it lit up like a christmas tree at speed.

Not bad, 2yrs 7 months of ownership and this is the 1st real issue so not all bad :smokin:

[chrisburns]

will be following this with interest, not mine but a friends M3 started to do the very same thing and we cannot figure out what it is.

[shane@mbtech]

Sounds to me like a wheel speed sensor Paul

Prob the reason why you had light on in germany

Should be an easy fix

[cantfind1]

Just turn it off! simples.

No but seriously, +1 prob wheel sensor.

[pkumarm3]

do u feel the rear end is sloppy?

if so, may be your rear trailing arm bushings - powerflex rtab is a popular solution!

i know that worn RTABs will create slop in the rear wheels - especially upon acceleration - which could trigger the DSC.

[rstoughy]

Sounds to me like a wheel speed sensor Paul

Prob the reason why you had light on in germany

Should be an easy fix

Hope so Shane. Not had the lights come on since except the traction one so will see what they say :smokin:


Just turn it off! simples.

No but seriously, +1 prob wheel sensor.

Hahaha thats what i've had to start doing, feckin thing almost grinds to a halt going around a roundabout :bigcry: :bigcry: :bigcry:


do u feel the rear end is sloppy?

if so, may be your rear trailing arm bushings - powerflex rtab is a popular solution!

i know that worn RTABs will create slop in the rear wheels - especially upon acceleration - which could trigger the DSC.

No, its got new OEM RTABs with a Turner limiter kit so all nice and tight back there :smokin:

[Niall]

Obviously a DSC electrical fault, a faulty wheel speed sensor 'should' throw on the ABS and tyre pressure warning lights on though.

Going by the fact your DSC is working but interfering too much, my guess would be the DSC YAW/speed sensor has had better days.

[shimmy]

could be the car doesn't understand your accent!

[NZ_M3]

which lights show up on the dash when this happens Paul?

Could be a few things off the top of my head ...

wheel speed sensor, steering angle sensor (might just be a recalibration), ABS module, DSC module, DSC relay, longitudinal accelerator sensor (might just need a reset), Battery or alternator playing havoc on your electricals, or even low brake fluid (although unlikely)

Did you change tyres recently? Have you done the pull back the pedal reset thingee?

[DuncanR]

which lights show up on the dash when this happens Paul?

Could be a few things off the top of my head ...

wheel speed sensor, steering angle sensor (might just be a recalibration), ABS module, DSC module, DSC relay, longitudinal accelerator sensor (might just need a reset), Battery or alternator playing havoc on your electricals, or even low brake fluid (although unlikely)

Did you change tyres recently? Have you done the pull back the pedal reset thingee?Jeez Tom !! Paul is a sweaty sock mate ! .. gonna be a while for him to digest that lot !!! :hahaha:

[rstoughy]

Obviously a DSC electrical fault, a faulty wheel speed sensor 'should' throw on the ABS and tyre pressure warning lights on though.

Going by the fact your DSC is working but interfering too much, my guess would be the DSC YAW/speed sensor has had better days.

ABS, Tyre Warning, Brake Warning and SMG light along with the DSC warning lights all lit up while driving over in Germany.
Stop, switch off car, re start. All still illuminated until I started to move upon which they all went out except the SMG which would stay yellow until around 35 - 40mph at which point it would also go out. All fine until i started to "push" the car again where that dreaded beep would sound and i had a disco on the dash again :smt034


could be the car doesn't understand your accent!
:bigcry: :bigcry: :bigcry: :hahaha:


which lights show up on the dash when this happens Paul?

Could be a few things off the top of my head ...

wheel speed sensor, steering angle sensor (might just be a recalibration), ABS module, DSC module, DSC relay, longitudinal accelerator sensor (might just need a reset), Battery or alternator playing havoc on your electricals, or even low brake fluid (although unlikely)

Did you change tyres recently? Have you done the pull back the pedal reset thingee?

Tom as I said above in this reply to Niall's post the ABS, Tyre Warning, Brake Warning and SMG light along with the DSC all lit up over in Germany numerous times but this most recent issue its only been the DSC light

Do the reset thingie every time I swap my wheels so can rule that out. Brake fluid is also ok as that was checked due to that light coming on :banghead:

Car is booked in at the end of the week so we shall see what sort of report comes back :whistle:

Jeez Tom !! Paul is a sweaty sock mate ! .. gonna be a while for him to digest that lot !!! :hahaha:

..... digest is something to do with food aint it :bigcry: :thumbs:

[glendog74]

ABS, Tyre Warning, Brake Warning and SMG light along with the DSC warning lights all lit up while driving over in Germany.
Stop, switch off car, re start. All still illuminated until I started to move upon which they all went out except the SMG which would stay yellow until around 35 - 40mph at which point it would also go out. All fine until i started to "push" the car again where that dreaded beep would sound and i had a disco on the dash again :smt034



I had exactly the same a few years ago after leaving the car ferry at Dunkirk. Wheel speed sensor... ;)

[Bounce]

I also had these lights on Paul,my problem was also a wheel speed sensor[ABS].I think you also get the same dash lights on with a steering angle sensor fault.;)

[rstoughy]

Ahh cool, nice to see it's not that an unusual problem :smokin:

Both Dunc and Shane said over in Germany that it was probably that. Car can run for days without any issue then all of a sudden.......BEEEEP :bigcry:

Car still run fine but it seemed to slow the gear change down a bit. That was until last week where it took a turn for the worse and the DSC started playing up as well :banghead:

Will see what the stealers say :thumbs:

[Niall]

To be honest, all or any of these warning lights can illuminate for the most bizarre reasons.

I've seen one with the SMG, DTC, ABS & RDC warnings all illuminated and this was caused by a faulty contact in a door lock causing the car to think the driver's door was being opened when driven.

Seems strange that your DSC warning is illuminated but the system is still working going by the original post (?). Anyway, your trip to the dealer will hopefully shed some light, hope it's something simple like a wheel speed sensor (ie the cheapest fix).

[Teavious]

My CSL dash lit up like a christmas tree today and looks to be a wheel speed sensor problem. However, the engine reved by itself though the car was not accelerating - quite scary. Shifted to N to stop the engine from redlining. Any ideas?

[Yanto]

My CSL dash lit up like a christmas tree today and looks to be a wheel speed sensor problem. However, the engine reved by itself though the car was not accelerating - quite scary. Shifted to N to stop the engine from redlining. Any ideas?

The engine revved with no pressure on accelerator ?

[The Gorilla]

Hi,

Quote- ''However, the engine reved by itself though the car was not accelerating - quite scary.........''

Sounds like you could have an issue
with the DBW [Drive by Wire].

The Stepper Motor to the Throttle Bodies
must be getting a signal even though
the Throttle pedal [ potentiometer]
is not registering pedal movement.

Diagnostics is the only way to try and
trace any fault.

Regards,

The Gorilla.

[cantfind1]

agree.....there are 4 TPS on CSL...one in accelerator pedal, one in engine bay on front above oil filter, one under idle control valve and one on the flap motor...ones in the engine bay are most likely to go due to temp extremes.....

[_Nathan_]

The throttle pedal has 2 outputs which describe throttle pedal position, one goes from 0% high volts to 100% low volts, and the other from 0% low volts to 100% being high volts, the sensor on the motor and the throttle rail itself perform the task of current position feedback and again one goes high to low and the other goes low to high. The sensor on the flap doesn't perform a function of either position demand or current position feedback in the closed loop DBW system, simply tells the ECU the position of the flap.

At all times both demand signals (pedal) should read within a few percent of each other, and likewise both feedback signals should read within a few percent of each other, the ECU drives the motor using PWM based on the aim error (difference between desired position - calculated in ECU based on lots of inputs including throttle position - and the feedback position). If either the position demand or feedback position fail their checks (the sensors for that part deviate from each other by too much) then limp home or similar should activated, there is no way a throttle should get pinned open by a failed sensor, think of the law suits and all the stories that would be all over the web of e46s suddenly going WOT on track and killing people.

Also if I may be so bold, how can a car be in gear and rev without accelerating unless a driveline component has failed meaning no drive, and why would putting it in neutral stop it revving if the ECU was driving the motor to WOT, unless the poster meant he was stationary and the lower 6k ish rev limiter kicked in when it was moved to neutral?

Need more info...

[shane@mbtech]

The throttle pedal has 2 outputs which describe throttle pedal position, one goes from 0% high volts to 100% low volts, and the other from 0% low volts to 100% being high volts, the sensor on the motor and the throttle rail itself perform the task of current position feedback and again one goes high to low and the other goes low to high. The sensor on the flap doesn't perform a function of either position demand or current position feedback in the closed loop DBW system, simply tells the ECU the position of the flap.

At all times both demand signals (pedal) should read within a few percent of each other, and likewise both feedback signals should read within a few percent of each other, the ECU drives the motor using PWM based on the aim error (difference between desired position - calculated in ECU based on lots of inputs including throttle position - and the feedback position). If either the position demand or feedback position fail their checks (the sensors for that part deviate from each other by too much) then limp home or similar should activated, there is no way a throttle should get pinned open by a failed sensor, think of the law suits and all the stories that would be all over the web of e46s suddenly going WOT on track and killing people.

Also if I may be so bold, how can a car be in gear and rev without accelerating unless a driveline component has failed meaning no drive, and why would putting it in neutral stop it revving if the ECU was driving the motor to WOT, unless the poster meant he was stationary and the lower 6k ish rev limiter kicked in when it was moved to neutral?

Need more info...

Exactly what I was thinking but I was taking a dump today when I read it, so I couldnt be arsed typing all that on the fricking I phone:hahaha:

[rstoughy]

And so it continues,
Car not really been used since Munich and has received some TLC.
Lepsons refurbished wheels with new genuine badges, new set of Super Sports, new rear spring, new battery, fancy new AUX ipod lead thingie fitted and some fresh flippers back from Mark.
New Recaro SPG waiting to go in when my floor mounts arrive AND
a trip to Germany booked for the end of next week.

My Parrot kit failed and never went off with the ignition so drained EVERY ounce of power from the battery. My guess is that this might have caused the problem with the steering sensor.

Took the car for an MOT yesterday and 5yrds from my door the dash lights up like a festive bush (again)
Had a friend come round tonight with his laptop and it has shown the following,
Steering Angle Sensor - Not Plausible
and Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor.

We are going to try re-calibration of the steering angle sensor using the process set out in the DIS software and I'll stick on a couple of front wheel speed sensors.

Never fails, was hoping for a nice weeks driving to shake it down prior to the trip :banghead:


Still love the old dog though :bigcry:

[billyboysm3]

My CSL dash lit up like a christmas tree today and looks to be a wheel speed sensor problem. However, the engine reved by itself though the car was not accelerating - quite scary. Shifted to N to stop the engine from redlining. Any ideas?

Its 100% a wheel speed sensor only.

[Monkey]

Its 100% a wheel speed sensor only.

+1 for this. Happened to somebody at The Ring if I recall.:thumbs:

[rstoughy]

So,
2 new front wheel speed sensors purchased from BMW yesterday.
Fitted last night and a re calibration of the steering angle sensor and its all good.

The cesil is back :smt055

[northernjim]

Glad to hear it mate :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

you will be setting off soon for DN9 to get there on time won't you? :-D:thumbs:

[rstoughy]

Glad to hear it mate :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

you will be setting off soon for DN9 to get there on time won't you? :-D:thumbs:

Hahaha Early next Sat Jim so a full 54hrs before the gates open :bigcry: :bigcry: :bigcry:

[Gazza]

Did you change tyres recently? Have you done the pull back the pedal reset thingee?

What's this about ?

[phoenixcsl]

What's this about ?

Drive at 50/60mph + knock the car into neutral, pull both shift paddles back simultaneously, hold them back for 10 seconds (IIRC tho may be less), and then put the car back into gear.

Basically it's a 'soft' reset of the SMG gearbox :thumbs: