Wheel nut torque

[rstoughy]

Had a browse using the search function but never really come up with much.

Whats the general torque setting for the standard wheel nuts?

Do any of you do them up differently for track?

Cheers,

:thumbs:

[shimmy]

i use 120Nm for road and track. Tighten on track after your first outing and maybe check again at lunchtime BUT i have never had a nut come loose EXCEPT just after wheel refurbs when if they painted on any touching surfaces the nuts will slacken off

[glendog74]

+1 ^^^ :thumbs:

[rstoughy]

:thumbs: :thumbs:
Cheers guys, just done my reps for track and have made a point of running a die grinder with wire brush through the bolt holes to get excess paint off :smokin:

[Mark CSL]

I use a Snap On impact gun so thats Fooking tight :hahaha::hahaha::hahaha:

[Bounce]

I use a Snap On impact gun so thats Fooking tight :hahaha::hahaha::hahaha::hahaha::hahaha::hahaha:

[Bounce]

120Nm or 88lb-ft.:smokin:

[shane@mbtech]

I torque a little higher than Specified for track work
The car is put through loads never seen on road, ESP with sticky rubber

I go 130 for track, and check often throughout day, shimmy and Glendogs way is fine though

The key is to monitor throughout the day to avoid incident, just as they advise too

[alexk]

BMW was documenting 100NM up to 2 years ago.
Since 2 years ago, all BMWs need to be tightened at 115NM.
For wheels with diameter greater than 17", you need to drive the car 10km or more and then check again.

Over tightening the nuts is a very bad idea for 2 reasons :
1. It might bend the hub of the wheel
2. When the brakes + wheels overheat, the nuts can break
I have seen both ^ in customer's BMWs.

[sailorbaz]

Good thread, was looking for info on this last time home. Cheers paul, :thumbs:

[shane@mbtech]

BMW was documenting 100NM up to 2 years ago.
Since 2 years ago, all BMWs need to be tightened at 115NM.
For wheels with diameter greater than 17", you need to drive the car 10km or more and then check again.

Over tightening the nuts is a very bad idea for 2 reasons :
1. It might bend the hub of the wheel
2. When the brakes + wheels overheat, the nuts can break
I have seen both ^ in customer's BMWs.

I think you would have to seriously overtighten to cause any of those issues Alex, and our BMW;s use bolts.

[shimmy]

BMW was documenting 100NM up to 2 years ago.
Since 2 years ago, all BMWs need to be tightened at 115NM.
For wheels with diameter greater than 17", you need to drive the car 10km or more and then check again.

Over tightening the nuts is a very bad idea for 2 reasons :
1. It might bend the hub of the wheel
2. When the brakes + wheels overheat, the nuts can break
I have seen both ^ in customer's BMWs.

So if BMW got it wring for all these years a good reason not to do what they recommend :whistle:

[alexk]

So if BMW got it wring for all these years a good reason not to do what they recommend :whistle:

True, after all what does BMW knows ;)

[rstoughy]

Good thread, was looking for info on this last time home. Cheers paul, :thumbs:

:thumbs:
I've always gone with the power bar and the "that should be tight enough" feel from my mechanic days but at the last track day i was at there was the distinctive sound of a wheel bolt snapping followed by one very pi$$ed off Escort Cosworth owner.

Got some bright wheels for the 2011 track season so i dont want to loose any of them :hahaha:

[shane@mbtech]

:thumbs:
I've always gone with the power bar and the "that should be tight enough" feel from my mechanic days but at the last track day i was at there was the distinctive sound of a wheel bolt snapping followed by one very pi$$ed off Escort Cosworth owner.

Got some bright wheels for the 2011 track season so i dont want to loose any of them :hahaha:

Ford and rust are like 2 peas in a pod though:hahaha:

To be fair, you must be a twat to snap a wheel bolt when tightening it up. Most common snapped bolts we see are cheap nasty locking bolts that people buy

Most of the lads on here inc myself, never give the wheel bolts time to seize, they are on/off more times than a whores draws. :thumbs:

[shimmy]

Most of the lads on here inc myself, never give the wheel bolts time to seize, they are on/off more times than a whores draws. :thumbs:

I hate to think how many times my rims have been on and off and APs cracked open and pads swapped in the last 4/5 years :whistle:

[shane@mbtech]

I hate to think how many times my rims have been on and off and APs cracked open and pads swapped in the last 4/5 years :whistle:

Surprised you have not got a graph with it on;):gayfight:

[rstoughy]

Ford and rust are like 2 peas in a pod though:hahaha:

To be fair, you must be a twat to snap a wheel bolt when tightening it up. Most common snapped bolts we see are cheap nasty locking bolts that people buy

Most of the lads on here inc myself, never give the wheel bolts time to seize, they are on/off more times than a whores draws. :thumbs:

Hahaha get what your saying, Wheels were changed from the ones with Cups to the ones with PS2's 2 weeks ago due to the snow coming back. Will be removed again next weekend to replace the broken rear spring in prep for Snett the following weekend where hopefully they will need swapped over again.
:bigcry: :hahaha:

[shimmy]

Surprised you have not got a graph with it on;):gayfight:


No graph, just a Ven Diagram ...............:smokin:

[shane@mbtech]

Shimmy you will be pleased to know I will only be running 1.4 bar boost at snett, approx 400bhp, which I felt was what my csl was equal to in evo land.

Having a long chat with my mapper and we are going to play it safe for a couple of trackdays, then turn up the boost.

So theoretically we should have a good battle.:beer:

[shimmy]

So theoretically we should have a good battle.:beer:

in that case i wont fit the supercharger :thumbs:

Bealos VBox+cams all ready to be turned on! :smokin:

[sailorbaz]

Oooooooh, Video Solutions much appreciated but Lawsy will have to fit them to his Evo to see the CSL AHEAD of him.... :whistle:

[Yanto]

i use 120Nm for road and track. Tighten on track after your first outing and maybe check again at lunchtime BUT i have never had a nut come loose EXCEPT just after wheel refurbs when if they painted on any touching surfaces the nuts will slacken off

<gulp> didnt know this mate - how long after painting does this kind of thing stop happening :smt107

I'll be coming in every fookin lap at Snett to check......:hahaha:

[shane@mbtech]

Oooooooh, Video Solutions much appreciated but Lawsy will have to fit them to his Evo to see the CSL AHEAD of him.... :whistle:


My charitable side obviously shows on the forum then ;):hahaha:

No it should be a close battle tbh, the evo is a heavy beast.

[shane@mbtech]

i use 120Nm for road and track. Tighten on track after your first outing and maybe check again at lunchtime BUT i have never had a nut come loose EXCEPT just after wheel refurbs when if they painted on any touching surfaces the nuts will slacken off

<gulp> didnt know this mate - how long after painting does this kind of thing stop happening :smt107

I'll be coming in every fookin lap at Snett to check......:hahaha:

Depends if they paint the wheel in the place it faces against the hub, a good repair should have no issues, however a bad repair can rear it's ugly head

The paint acts like a washer, heat transfer from the brakes to the wheel, the paint gets hot, starts to melt and hey presto washer has disappeared.
Wheel can then become loose

Just monitor, takes 1 min to check a few bolts