Brake pedal depth

[a_Y]

How much does your brake pedal go down until it is stiff? I need to step till it's just past the throttle. Is that normal?

[alexk]

Mine is approximately 1.5cm from nothing to full.

[a_Y]

Mine is approximately 1.5cm from nothing to full.

What brake set up are you using? I have stop tech pads with oem discs, calipers, lines, fluid. I had dealer bleed the system numerous times including abs and dsc. Nothing seems to improve the pedal feel. The car stops very well esp after using stop tech pads but the feel just isn't there. I need to step the pedal till it levels with the throttle for full. Any help would be appreciated!

[shimmy]

What brake set up are you using? I have stop tech pads with oem discs, calipers, lines, fluid. I had dealer bleed the system numerous times including abs and dsc. Nothing seems to improve the pedal feel. The car stops very well esp after using stop tech pads but the feel just isn't there. I need to step the pedal till it levels with the throttle for full. Any help would be appreciated!

Sounds similar to the original Alcon issue. Are the Stoptech "Alcon" replicas?

[a_Y]

Sounds similar to the original Alcon issue. Are the Stoptech "Alcon" replicas?

I'm not sure... But I had oem brake pads before and it was still like this. I hoped changing all these would solve the problem but it didn't. Any suggestions on what to do?

[cslsuperfan]

How much does your brake pedal go down until it is stiff? I need to step till it's just past the throttle. Is that normal?


I've never really thought about physical pedal travel until now.

Past the throttle sounds unusual.

Fresh rotors and pads really shouldn't change the travel of the pedal after the initial press on the pedal.

I run AP's with pagid RS29's and the pedal is absolutely solid within an inch.

[a_Y]

I've never really thought about physical pedal travel until now.

Past the throttle sounds unusual.

Fresh rotors and pads really shouldn't change the travel of the pedal after the initial press on the pedal.

I run AP's with pagid RS29's and the pedal is absolutely solid within an inch.

I tried everything.. Even replacing master cylinder and booster. The only thing I haven't changed are the calipers. I love the car but hate this brake issue =(

[alexk]

How was the brake bleeding done ?

[a_Y]

How was the brake bleeding done ?


The dealer did it for me. When the master and booster were replaced they bled it with the GT1 computer. They also tried manual as well as pressure bleed after bleeding with GT1.

Is there a very specific procedure that they should do it? Any pointers? Thanks!

[shimmy]

http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9063&highlight=Alcon+soft

[shimmy]

http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13181&highlight=Alcon+pedal

[a_Y]

http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13181&highlight=Alcon+pedal

But I have stock calipers though..

[shimmy]

But I have stock calipers though..

ahhh sorry

[billyboysm3]

Don't get the dealer to bleed the system as the machines give crap feel.

You need to do it the old skool way with two people and pump the pedal and hold it to get the air out.

[a_Y]

Don't get the dealer to bleed the system as the machines give crap feel.

You need to do it the old skool way with two people and pump the pedal and hold it to get the air out.

We tried this as well... And didn't work :bigcry:

[alexk]

Are you leaking brake fluid anywhere ?

If not, it's 100% a brake bleeding problem.

I think I had described the brake bleeding process with the GT1.
In summary, I go to the diagnostic/testing menu of the DSC (ABS) unit and when I bleed a caliper, I open the in and out valves at least 3 times each at intervals of 60 seconds (my compressor and hence brake bleeder are not so fast).
Doing this makes a very very big difference.
It takes time, but the result is fantastic.

[a_Y]

Are you leaking brake fluid anywhere ?

If not, it's 100% a brake bleeding problem.

I think I had described the brake bleeding process with the GT1.
In summary, I go to the diagnostic/testing menu of the DSC (ABS) unit and when I bleed a caliper, I open the in and out valves at least 3 times each at intervals of 60 seconds (my compressor and hence brake bleeder are not so fast).
Doing this makes a very very big difference.
It takes time, but the result is fantastic.

Thanks Alex. You have PM.

[a_Y]

Are you leaking brake fluid anywhere ?

If not, it's 100% a brake bleeding problem.

I think I had described the brake bleeding process with the GT1.
In summary, I go to the diagnostic/testing menu of the DSC (ABS) unit and when I bleed a caliper, I open the in and out valves at least 3 times each at intervals of 60 seconds (my compressor and hence brake bleeder are not so fast).
Doing this makes a very very big difference.
It takes time, but the result is fantastic.

Alex, thanks for the pointer. I have sent you a PM asking for more detailed instructions but I don't know if you have received it as the sent message doesn't seem to show up in my outbox. If you can (or anyone else), please kindly send me more detailed instructions on how to bleed the brakes as I need to translate them into Chinese for the mechanics here (and I am a complete idiot when it comes to technical stuff). Thank you so much!

[alexk]

Hello

I understand the photo below has the GT1 menu in Greek, but I can translate.
Basically you need to connect the car to a strong battery charger and then also connect the GT1.
Do the initial diagnostics and then go to the testing menu.
Select the DSC unit and then 'activating parts'.

What you see in the far right is.
- Inlet valve front left
- Outlet valve front left
- Inlet valve front right
...
- Isolating valve DSC
- Return pump

http://www.clubcsl.com/Z3C/IMG-20120731-00295-1400.jpg

The corner of the car that I am bleeding, while the bleeder is moving the brake fluid, I activate first the inlet valve (for 5 seconds the DSC will open it).
Then I activate the outlet valve (again 5 seconds).
I do the same thing another 4 times. In between waiting 15 secs or so.

The idea of doing the above is to let fluid pass from the DSC valves, replace the old fluid and eliminate any air.

I hope this helps.

[a_Y]

Thanks Alex! Will have the dealer try this!

Hello

I understand the photo below has the GT1 menu in Greek, but I can translate.
Basically you need to connect the car to a strong battery charger and then also connect the GT1.
Do the initial diagnostics and then go to the testing menu.
Select the DSC unit and then 'activating parts'.

What you see in the far right is.
- Inlet valve front left
- Outlet valve front left
- Inlet valve front right
...
- Isolating valve DSC
- Return pump

http://www.clubcsl.com/Z3C/IMG-20120731-00295-1400.jpg

The corner of the car that I am bleeding, while the bleeder is moving the brake fluid, I activate first the inlet valve (for 5 seconds the DSC will open it).
Then I activate the outlet valve (again 5 seconds).
I do the same thing another 4 times. In between waiting 15 secs or so.

The idea of doing the above is to let fluid pass from the DSC valves, replace the old fluid and eliminate any air.

I hope this helps.

[Chad]

Don't get the dealer to bleed the system as the machines give crap feel.

You need to do it the old skool way with two people and pump the pedal and hold it to get the air out.

Would it help with tracksion control off when bleeding ?just a thaught. Chad

[alexk]

Would it help with tracksion control off when bleeding ?just a thaught. Chad

Nope.
The traction control is modifying how the engine is behaving and whether the rear brakes are activated by the DSC unit.

[a_Y]

Are you leaking brake fluid anywhere ?

If not, it's 100% a brake bleeding problem.

I think I had described the brake bleeding process with the GT1.
In summary, I go to the diagnostic/testing menu of the DSC (ABS) unit and when I bleed a caliper, I open the in and out valves at least 3 times each at intervals of 60 seconds (my compressor and hence brake bleeder are not so fast).
Doing this makes a very very big difference.
It takes time, but the result is fantastic.

Alex, just wanted to clarify two things. When you say bleed each caliper a few times at an interval of 60 seconds, do you bleed each corner a few times consecutively? Or do you bleed all four corners then repeat the cycle? Also, what do you mean by at an interval of 60 seconds? Thanks!

[alexk]

hi

No, you bleed the caliper and you open the in/out valves of the DSC unit for this caliper a few times every 60 seconds (a faster bleeding machine transfers more fluid than mine... so maybe the 60 seconds should be 30).

[a_Y]

hi

No, you bleed the caliper and you open the in/out valves of the DSC unit for this caliper a few times every 60 seconds (a faster bleeding machine transfers more fluid than mine... so maybe the 60 seconds should be 30).

So for example, the order of the calipers for tbe bleeding should be left rear, right rear, left front, right front. I would open the in and out valves of the left rear a few times before I move on to the next caliper correct?

[a_Y]

hi

No, you bleed the caliper and you open the in/out valves of the DSC unit for this caliper a few times every 60 seconds (a faster bleeding machine transfers more fluid than mine... so maybe the 60 seconds should be 30).

Alex, thank you for your kindly help! The brakes now bite much better than before!

[alexk]

Alex, thank you for your kindly help! The brakes now bite much better than before!

That's good news :thumbs:

It's amazing the difference this makes.