View Full Version : 223/P0107 Intake Manifold Pressure Fault
0-60Motorsports
20-07-2015, 10:12 PM
Hey guys,
So, since I bought the car in 2006 I got my very first CEL today. Car is full CSL conversion minus cams with OEM CSL + TTFS tune...
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/17/f4694f7385f8cd99151c36e0c698ef0b.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/17/b4b8d17a14e69d3bbdb499cf05695093.jpg
Was speaking to Terra earlier and think it's a map sensor fault. Since i couldnt find the spare MAP Sensor I had I thought I would post here for some thoughts from the members.
Car is jerky and bogs on acceleration in the specified rpms in the pictures. In any gear.
I cleared the CEL today and it came back at the end of the day.
When I unplug the map sensor the idle returns to being smooth and no more erratic behavior with AC on. I will try switching the TPS sensors between the front and flap one. Lets see if this is a TPS issue more than a MAP issue.
Any thoughts from the you CSL Owners would be appreciated. Cheers Fella's
NZ_M3
21-07-2015, 01:38 AM
Check your wiring on your MAP sensor - I have not seen these MAP sensors fail ever unless it's clogged up?
I seem to recall you soldered your MAP wires rather than crimp them, that's a big no no for wiring in the engine bay.
0-60Motorsports
21-07-2015, 08:49 AM
Check your wiring on your MAP sensor - I have not seen these MAP sensors fail ever unless it's clogged up?
I seem to recall you soldered your MAP wires rather than crimp them, that's a big no no for wiring in the engine bay.
I wouldnt think crimping vs soldering would be such a big deal in this case. I might as well check the wiring, The MAP sensor i installed was a used one any way.
0-60Motorsports
23-07-2015, 04:38 PM
Wiring looks fine. Ordered a new MAP sensor as mine was old and used. Never installed a brand new one from the start. Will report back once it arrives and I install it.
J2LTB
04-08-2015, 07:14 PM
I'm having similar problems. 223 intake manifold pressure. I've replace the the idle control valve but still 223 is present. Any more thoughts on this please ??
0-60Motorsports
04-08-2015, 07:34 PM
I'm having similar problems. 223 intake manifold pressure. I've replace the the idle control valve but still 223 is present. Any more thoughts on this please ??
Did you replace the map sensor? I am waiting for mine to arrive.
J2LTB
04-08-2015, 07:40 PM
No not as yet. I've just rang local Bmw รยฃ335 with vat - 13627833561
0-60Motorsports
04-08-2015, 07:54 PM
No not as yet. I've just rang local Bmw รยฃ335 with vat - 13627833561
Try eBay or others like evolve. Search online. They are expensive but we can't run from it. Best thing to do is borrow it from someone storing their Csl. It only takes a few mins to change over and you'll notice straight away if it fixes the issues.
0-60Motorsports
09-08-2015, 06:10 PM
I received my new OEM MAP Sensor and just installed it. The idle seems to become normal and then fluctuate again with AC on. With AC off it is normal and fine.
I will clear adaptations and go for a drive and report back.
0-60Motorsports
09-08-2015, 09:16 PM
So the new MAP Sensor did F all. Tiny bit smoother but otherwise exactly the same. Fluctuating idle with AC on and Choking bogging under 3-4k rpm with AC on (dont know if having ac on or off will make any difference).
I guess next step is to look at the wiring for the MAP sensor as maybe solders could have come loose. when I disconnect the MAP sensor car idles perfect with AC on.
shane@mbtech
09-08-2015, 11:15 PM
I had similar issues once, it was the intake manifold temp sensor
The one on the front of the airbox, located behind the oil filter housing
Have you checked comp or leak down test at all
0-60Motorsports
10-08-2015, 07:25 AM
I had similar issues once, it was the intake manifold temp sensor
The one on the front of the airbox, located behind the oil filter housing
Have you checked comp or leak down test at all
In my case the car is making the power. If there were any issues with the engine it wouldn't perform like it does now.
The issue is of a leak or wiring in my case i guess. its frickin 104f at night here so im just going to wait till the AC system is done being installed at the shop and then start a proper check up.
Good luck to OP, try swapping sensors with a forum member close to you first.
cslsuperfan
10-08-2015, 10:35 PM
I had similar issues once, it was the intake manifold temp sensor
The one on the front of the airbox, located behind the oil filter housing
Have you checked comp or leak down test at all
Shane, the bogging down etc- are these symptoms of HG failure or bore damage?
Mike R
11-08-2015, 12:02 PM
How does the ECU control the idle speed on a CSL? Normally on a Cossie, when the idle fluctuates, its because the Idle Speed Control Valve needs cleaning. This allows air to bypass the throttle butterfly (but is a single one not individual cylinder ones like on the CSL). When it gets clogged with gunk, it can't react quick enough, so the idle hunts up and down until the engine gets warm, where it then turns off (as it comes on as part of the cold start where it acts like a choke). It also turns back on to raise the idle when the air-con is switched on and can do the same thing if not clean (where it keeps over compensating one way and then the other due to the stiction caused by the gunk). If the CSL has a similar mechanical device (even if it is some sort of electronic butterfly control), if the butterflies are clogged up, it could be this?
Having seen how dirty they can get (especially after hearing about your climate), it is something I would be looking in to?
0-60Motorsports
11-08-2015, 12:09 PM
How does the ECU control the idle speed on a CSL? Normally on a Cossie, when the idle fluctuates, its because the Idle Speed Control Valve needs cleaning. This allows air to bypass the throttle butterfly (but is a single one not individual cylinder ones like on the CSL). When it gets clogged with gunk, it can't react quick enough, so the idle hunts up and down until the engine gets warm, where it then turns off (as it comes on as part of the cold start where it acts like a choke). It also turns back on to raise the idle when the air-con is switched on and can do the same thing if not clean (where it keeps over compensating one way and then the other due to the stiction caused by the gunk). If the CSL has a similar mechanical device (even if it is some sort of electronic butterfly control), if the butterflies are clogged up, it could be this?
Having seen how dirty they can get (especially after hearing about your climate), it is something I would be looking in to?
Mike,
Thanks for your input and i understand what you are talking about. I have already cleaned out ICV and TB's. The weather is dusty and sandy here but i never drive the M3 in that kind of weather TBH. So when i did clean out all these parts they weren't that bad to begin with. Also the car has low KMs as you can see.
When i remove the intake manifold to change the TPS under it i'll remove the ICV again and clean it out once more. Once i do the leak tests etc i'll update the thread. :beer:
J2LTB
11-08-2015, 12:28 PM
How does the ECU control the idle speed on a CSL? Normally on a Cossie, when the idle fluctuates, its because the Idle Speed Control Valve needs cleaning. This allows air to bypass the throttle butterfly (but is a single one not individual cylinder ones like on the CSL). When it gets clogged with gunk, it can't react quick enough, so the idle hunts up and down until the engine gets warm, where it then turns off (as it comes on as part of the cold start where it acts like a choke). It also turns back on to raise the idle when the air-con is switched on and can do the same thing if not clean (where it keeps over compensating one way and then the other due to the stiction caused by the gunk). If the CSL has a similar mechanical device (even if it is some sort of electronic butterfly control), if the butterflies are clogged up, it could be this?
Having seen how dirty they can get (especially after hearing about your climate), it is something I would be looking in to?
Mike the idle control valve feeds of the filtered side of the airbox. This is controls the air going to the top chrome rail which lets air to the other side of the throttle bodies. It looks similar to the injector fuel rail. I've swapped my idle control valve and it's made no difference ๐
Mike R
11-08-2015, 02:12 PM
Well looks like testing Shane's theory, as that sensor is relatively cheap so I have been lead to believe :).
J2LTB
22-08-2015, 11:09 PM
Quick update of my problems and the fix.
One of the throttle body stop screw head's had snapped. Over time the thread had screwed itself in more holding the butterfly open when it should have been shut on idle. Thus causing a air leak๐๐๐๐
Only found when we put pressurised smoke through the idle valve rail.
The fix was to remove the damaged thread and renew the bolt and nut. Set it all up and no air leak. Car is now back to its amazing self ๐
0-60Motorsports
22-08-2015, 11:22 PM
Quick update of my problems and the fix.
One of the throttle body stop screw head's had snapped. Over time the thread had screwed itself in more holding the butterfly open when it should have been shut on idle. Thus causing a air leak๐๐๐๐
Only found when we put pressurised smoke through the idle valve rail.
The fix was to remove the damaged thread and renew the bolt and nut. Set it all up and no air leak. Car is now back to its amazing self ๐
That's awesome! Can you post a pic of the screw and its location please? Thanks.
0-60Motorsports
02-09-2015, 10:21 AM
Ok, So my cars going batshit crazy.... Here are the fault codes from the CEL after replacing MAP and IAT sensors and re-soldering all wires with no breaks in between....
J2LTB
02-09-2015, 11:30 AM
Not too sure about those codes . Any translation ?
0-60Motorsports
02-09-2015, 12:41 PM
Fuel System Diagnosis 1 and 2 errors
below the temp readings and adaptation readings it says:
partial load - MIN error
Error exhaust relevant OBD
Error currently available
static error
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