Mark CSL
24-02-2009, 11:49 PM
Here is a quick/simple overview of the install of an OEM CSL Roof on a Carbon Black e46 M3 (think it may be the first ever with this combo). I have a TON of pictures that I took of the install but here are a few hi-lights and tips. Please note that I did not participate in any of the work and was fortunate enough to be allowed to watch and learn. Again, I have benefited tremendously from this forum and hope this is a way to give back just a little. All the work was done at Simple Image Autobody and Collision in Santa Clara, CA. The shop owner, Joey, is an extremely pleasant person and does excellent/meticulous work. I was very impressed with his organization, the thoroughness of his work and you can tell he takes much pride in what he does and very much appreciates the e46 M3. I would highly recommend him as his shop painted all my OEM CSL parts (trunk/diffuser/front bumper). For reference, this is what my car looked like before the roof install- http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=166654&highlight=oem+csl+ucal
Okay, here we go:
First up, (1) e46 M3 OEM CSL Roof
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/CarbonFiberWeaveOutside800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/WeaveCloseupGood800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/CSLRoofReadyPosition800x600.jpg
1. Not Shown but what actually takes the most time/difficulty- Removal of interior (Front/Rear Seats, Headliner, etc), Exterior Rubber Trim/Rails, Front and Rear Windows (Interestingly, this requires a glass specialist and tool and 95% of the time when removing the front window it will crack- Luckily, I was in the 5% range).
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/OEMSeats800x600.jpg
2. Make sure all interior/exterior parts are well covered and protected.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/1-ExteriorCoverc800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/1-InteriorCovera800x600.jpg
3. When taking off the original roof it is important to carefully identify where the original spot welds are placed.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/TopOldRoof800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Smoothing1predrill800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/UnseenSpotWelda800x600.jpg
To do this requires:
a) sanding/grinding to help pinpoint the weld.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/GrinderTool800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/UnseenSpotweldb800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/UnseenSpotweldc800x600.jpg
b) drilling a lead hole.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/DrillTool800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/UnseenSpotweldD800x600.jpg
c) Removing the weld with a special drill bit.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/SpotRemvoalToolBEST800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/UnseenSpotwelde800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/SpotWeldRemovalinAction800x600.jpg[/QUOTE]
4. After much grinding/smoothing, drilling, and dozens of spot welds removed the old roof is ready to be removed by CAREFULLY prying/chiseling various key areas to slowly loosen the roof and not scratching/damaging the car.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Chiseltool800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/ChiselRoofBEST800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/ChiselResultssie800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/OLDRoofRemovea800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofOFFb800x600.jpg
5. Once the roof is removed notice that there is no brace in the middle or otherwise. The original roof is not extremely heavy (plus/minus 25lbs) and the majority of the weight comes from the sunroof assembly.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofoffTopView800x600.jpg
6. Now it is key to smooth out the edges where the roof will be sitting. Again, this requires a lot of careful grinding and smoothing.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/SmoothingSPARKSBEST800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofOffSmoothingEdgesBEST800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RightBeforeCSLRoofFit800x600.jpg
Also, there is a little bit of sealant (black rubbery stuff for a lack of better term) that I believe is originally used to keep the roof lined up properly and to prevent any unevenness/rattling/etc. This needs to be removed with a spatula.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofOFFcloseupwithRubber800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RubberyGunkRemoval800x600.jpg
7. Once the edges are smoothed out, the CSL Roof can now be test fitted. Important Note- Notice on the top edges of the front window there was a little trim/gasket that was purposely left on. This is important to help line up the front of the CSL Roof onto the car.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/SpecialTrimLineUpforRoof800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/SpecialRoofLiningupwithCarbonFiber8.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofFitting2800x600.jpg
8. As you may know the CSL Roof requires a brace/roof bow/b pillar (OEM Part #41328242075) that is placed/welded onto the middle of the roof. Interestingly notice the bottom of the CSL roof has markings/guides of where to line up the brace (faint horizontal lines).
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/BottonRoofseelinesa800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/BraceLineUpbyHand800x600.jpg
[QUOTE=ucal;7259881]9. Next is the welding of the brace onto the car (Yes, the shots were taken without directly looking at the welding).
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/WeldingMaching800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Weldinga800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Weldingc800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Weldingd800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Weldinge800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/WithBrace1800x600.jpg
10. It is funny to think that what holds the roof onto the car is mostly glue although I have never seen a glue gun so huge and requiring an air compressor to help pump out this stuff. As you can see the glue is used liberally to cover ALL the edges as well as on the brace itself. Any residue/extra glue is quickly removed. There is a window of about 45 minutes to get the roof on before the glue begins to set.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/GlueBrace2800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/GlueCloseupGood800x600.jpg
11. Once all the glue is in place the CSL Roof is again fitted onto the top of the car and clamps are used to hold the roof down.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofOnClamp2800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofOnClamps3800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofFinalOnWeavePic800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/WeaveRefectionGood800x600.jpg
12. The glue is allowed to set for 24 hours and the final steps are to put on the front and rear OEM CSL Roof Insulation Material (Front Part #51488229733, Rear Part #51488229734), the new CSL headliner (just a regular headliner without sunroof cut out- Part #51447124314 see pic below), and putting back the interior.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/NewHeadliner800x600.jpg
Okay, here we go:
First up, (1) e46 M3 OEM CSL Roof
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/CarbonFiberWeaveOutside800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/WeaveCloseupGood800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/CSLRoofReadyPosition800x600.jpg
1. Not Shown but what actually takes the most time/difficulty- Removal of interior (Front/Rear Seats, Headliner, etc), Exterior Rubber Trim/Rails, Front and Rear Windows (Interestingly, this requires a glass specialist and tool and 95% of the time when removing the front window it will crack- Luckily, I was in the 5% range).
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/OEMSeats800x600.jpg
2. Make sure all interior/exterior parts are well covered and protected.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/1-ExteriorCoverc800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/1-InteriorCovera800x600.jpg
3. When taking off the original roof it is important to carefully identify where the original spot welds are placed.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/TopOldRoof800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Smoothing1predrill800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/UnseenSpotWelda800x600.jpg
To do this requires:
a) sanding/grinding to help pinpoint the weld.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/GrinderTool800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/UnseenSpotweldb800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/UnseenSpotweldc800x600.jpg
b) drilling a lead hole.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/DrillTool800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/UnseenSpotweldD800x600.jpg
c) Removing the weld with a special drill bit.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/SpotRemvoalToolBEST800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/UnseenSpotwelde800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/SpotWeldRemovalinAction800x600.jpg[/QUOTE]
4. After much grinding/smoothing, drilling, and dozens of spot welds removed the old roof is ready to be removed by CAREFULLY prying/chiseling various key areas to slowly loosen the roof and not scratching/damaging the car.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Chiseltool800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/ChiselRoofBEST800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/ChiselResultssie800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/OLDRoofRemovea800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofOFFb800x600.jpg
5. Once the roof is removed notice that there is no brace in the middle or otherwise. The original roof is not extremely heavy (plus/minus 25lbs) and the majority of the weight comes from the sunroof assembly.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofoffTopView800x600.jpg
6. Now it is key to smooth out the edges where the roof will be sitting. Again, this requires a lot of careful grinding and smoothing.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/SmoothingSPARKSBEST800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofOffSmoothingEdgesBEST800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RightBeforeCSLRoofFit800x600.jpg
Also, there is a little bit of sealant (black rubbery stuff for a lack of better term) that I believe is originally used to keep the roof lined up properly and to prevent any unevenness/rattling/etc. This needs to be removed with a spatula.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofOFFcloseupwithRubber800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RubberyGunkRemoval800x600.jpg
7. Once the edges are smoothed out, the CSL Roof can now be test fitted. Important Note- Notice on the top edges of the front window there was a little trim/gasket that was purposely left on. This is important to help line up the front of the CSL Roof onto the car.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/SpecialTrimLineUpforRoof800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/SpecialRoofLiningupwithCarbonFiber8.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofFitting2800x600.jpg
8. As you may know the CSL Roof requires a brace/roof bow/b pillar (OEM Part #41328242075) that is placed/welded onto the middle of the roof. Interestingly notice the bottom of the CSL roof has markings/guides of where to line up the brace (faint horizontal lines).
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/BottonRoofseelinesa800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/BraceLineUpbyHand800x600.jpg
[QUOTE=ucal;7259881]9. Next is the welding of the brace onto the car (Yes, the shots were taken without directly looking at the welding).
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/WeldingMaching800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Weldinga800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Weldingc800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Weldingd800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/Weldinge800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/WithBrace1800x600.jpg
10. It is funny to think that what holds the roof onto the car is mostly glue although I have never seen a glue gun so huge and requiring an air compressor to help pump out this stuff. As you can see the glue is used liberally to cover ALL the edges as well as on the brace itself. Any residue/extra glue is quickly removed. There is a window of about 45 minutes to get the roof on before the glue begins to set.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/GlueBrace2800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/GlueCloseupGood800x600.jpg
11. Once all the glue is in place the CSL Roof is again fitted onto the top of the car and clamps are used to hold the roof down.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofOnClamp2800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofOnClamps3800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/RoofFinalOnWeavePic800x600.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/WeaveRefectionGood800x600.jpg
12. The glue is allowed to set for 24 hours and the final steps are to put on the front and rear OEM CSL Roof Insulation Material (Front Part #51488229733, Rear Part #51488229734), the new CSL headliner (just a regular headliner without sunroof cut out- Part #51447124314 see pic below), and putting back the interior.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii172/Ucalif/NewHeadliner800x600.jpg