Rear camber control arms adjustible

[adem.csl]

Guys couple people been asking me about alternatives to the csl ally rear camber control arms as they are soft and bend easily bmw no longer stock these so ive found a deal that works quiet well
They are eibach all aluminium lightweight rear adjustible camer arms for rear suspension excellent quality £280 posted per kit
http://ca-int.co.uk/variants-Y2FyX21ha2U9Ym13JmNhcl90eXBlPWU0Nm0mcGFyZW50X2lkPT E4MDQ=.html
9837

[shimmy]

I must remember to learn how to adjust mine

[adem.csl]

I must remember to learn how to adjust mine

If you get the camber spirit level tool then you just slide under the car loosen the two 27mm nuts then turn the centre rod in or out depending on what adjustment you want.
Or if you put it on a geo machine read out what the setting is then count the turns till you reach the other setting and write it down.problem is this puts the toe out a bit because you only adjust the back of the wheel not the front.

Does give infinate adjustment over stock if you have coilovers and the rest set up
9838

[shimmy]

Simpons just gave me 1 turn = 1/2 degree....just can't bloody loosen the nut :)

I have I think the rogue ones whereas Oneill has the Turner ones....Turner much better they are, very light like the CSL ones which is good.

[adem.csl]

Simpons just gave me 1 turn = 1/2 degree....just can't bloody loosen the nut :)

I have I think the rogue ones whereas Oneill has the Turner ones....Turner much better they are, very light like the CSL ones which is good.

Turners and rogue look almost identical shimmy.24mm bolt looks like
Buy a long spanner so you can get leverage on it
9839

[adem.csl]

9840
Rogue
I cant find proof on the eibach set but i think they are 3.00kg
And the rogue/turners are 2.26kg

[shimmy]

Turners and rogue look almost identical shimmy.24mm bolt looks like
Buy a long spanner so you can get leverage on it
9839

In that case mine aren't Rogue they are Eibach, they look likes your CA ones...but The Turner ones are much lighter.

[adem.csl]

In that case mine aren't Rogue they are Eibach, they look likes your CA ones...but The stunner ones are much lighter.

Stunner ones?lol your f#%¥ing with me now!!

[shimmy]

Stunner ones?lol your f#%¥ing with me now!!

:-D

Sorry "turner"

[adem.csl]

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3552-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-e36-e46-z4-turner-motorsport-streettrack.aspx
Messed up! 5lbs the turners weigh sorry folks

[trackm3]

The aluminium arms are a pain, if they don't jump threads they seize up !

[0-60Motorsports]

I have the ROGUE one and they have been awesome for the last 5 years.

[shane@mbtech]

I thought the eibach ones were £220?

£280 is a bit steep?

[trackm3]

Have you adjusted them much ?



I have the ROGUE one and they have been awesome for the last 5 years.

[0-60Motorsports]

Have you adjusted them much ?

LOL Yeah! Of course. One time was running -2.5 camber in the rear.

Now Im running -2 all around which is perfect for fast road DD set up.

[shimmy]

I think -1.75 is perfect road rear camber (my road tyres were perfectly evenly worn (bald)

I went up to -2 for road and track but decided with more adjustable camber arms to set back to -1.75 and then adjust accordingly to start probably + 1 to -2.75

[0-60Motorsports]

I think -1.75 is perfect road rear camber (my road tyres were perfectly evenly worn (bald)

I went up to -2 for road and track but decided with more adjustable camber arms to set back to -1.75 and then adjust accordingly to start probably + 1 to -2.75

Once and if I get new wheels for the car (BC forged or BBS LMs) I'll probably do a CSL alignment.

[adem.csl]

I thought the eibach ones were £220?

£280 is a bit steep?
Steel ones are
Dude £315 from CA
They got em on eBay for $285 plus p&p then the import charge.if i can get over 5 sets i can get em cheaper its just a starter price i asked for on 4 sets

Just looked geoff steal £220+ shipping£35+Tax£51=306
Still dear??

[shimmy]

Steel ones are
Dude £315 from CA
They got em on eBay for $285 plus p&p then the import charge.if i can get over 5 sets i can get em cheaper its just a starter price i asked for on 4 sets


I think mine were just above £320 but I didn't hunt around iirc

[O'Neill]

I think mine were just above £320 but I didn't hunt around iirc

They are huge, probably worth more as scrap:-D

[shimmy]

They are huge, probably worth more as scrap:-D


and I cant undo them so scrap value is all they are worth:hahaha:

[O'Neill]

and I cant undo them so scrap value is all they are worth:hahaha:


What size are the nuts:119: :-D, car needs to be on a ramp to undo them.

[shimmy]

What size are the nuts:119: :-D, car needs to be on a ramp to undo them.

i have the spanner (22mm i think) but as you say need decemt leverage

[adem.csl]

i have the spanner (22mm i think) but as you say need decemt leverage

Shimmy take a drive to me as i keep offering we can stick it on my 4 post ramp and undo them for you!!i can do a Sunday if you want

[shimmy]

Shimmy take a drive to me as i keep offering we can stick it on my 4 post ramp and undo them for you!!i can do a Sunday if you want

do my bloody prop coupling whilst im there ;)

[mattCSLnut]

do my bloody prop coupling whilst im there ;)
Have you ditched the BMW Mondial Warranty ? That prop coupling should be covered as part of the drive train.

[shimmy]

Have you ditched the BMW Mondial Warranty ? That prop coupling should be covered as part of the drive train.

They said no and I was going to argue but £250 excess so unless i find another fault.........

Also a rubber bush at 102k miles couod be considered fair wear and tear

[mattCSLnut]

They said no and I was going to argue but £250 excess so unless i find another fault.........

Also a rubber bush at 102k miles couod be considered fair wear and tear

Fair enough Shimmy :wink: although I thought you had a bit of a growing "To Do" list so it shouldn't be too tricky to find other faults.

[shimmy]

Fair enough Shimmy :wink: although I thought you had a bit of a growing "To Do" list so it shouldn't be too tricky to find other faults.

been trying but apparently my car is MINT

[mattCSLnut]

been trying but apparently my car is MINT

:hahaha: :hahaha: :hahaha:

[shimmy]

:hahaha: :hahaha: :hahaha:

What you laughing at :(

[mattCSLnut]

What you laughing at :(
Where do I begin... :wink: :hahaha:

[adem.csl]

Rubber coupling is wear and tear there is no premature failure on that unless its soaked in oil or a bolts come loose!
Course i wil do your coupling mate gimme a shout when your ready!
Free tomorrow if you are!!

[shimmy]

Rubber coupling is wear and tear there is no premature failure on that unless its soaked in oil or a bolts come loose!
Course i wil do your coupling mate gimme a shout when your ready!
Free tomorrow if you are!!


Cheers mate but will be a couple of weeks before I take her out of hiding now. Will give you a bell.

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Can you do full geo too :-D

[adem.csl]

Can you do full geo too :-D

Yes i can ive got the same kds machine bmw use only i take my time maticulously with the numbers!

[Rick H]

Bumping up an old thread . . .

Turner MS RCAs - Track and fast road use - hard ends or rubber bushings?

The Turner site states the hard rod ends are track use only as ride comfort is compromised - but in the CSL is that relevant? Can understand it with a standard M3 of course, but the Cesil is hardly a limo.

[Rick H]

bumpity bump

[glendog74]

bumpity bump

I asked Ant at Simpson MS about hard bushings many times and his advice was always stay clear of the hard metal bushings unless your car was intended as a track only machine...

[shimmy]

Bumping up an old thread . . .

Turner MS RCAs - Track and fast road use - hard ends or rubber bushings?

The Turner site states the hard rod ends are track use only as ride comfort is compromised - but in the CSL is that relevant? Can understand it with a standard M3 of course, but the Cesil is hardly a limo.

I'd Avoid. Makes car uncomfortable and a bit Cutterish. If you had a full cage and hard springs it might do some good otherwise just drive faster.

[Rick H]

Cheers GD & Shim . . . Shim, are you saying it's not worth going with the adjustable rear arms altogether or just avoid the hard bushes ?

[shimmy]

Cheers GD & Shim . . . Shim, are you saying it's not worth going with the adjustable rear arms altogether or just avoid the hard bushes ?

I wouldn't put solid bushes on road car. Race car with full cage yes. On a road car the transfer of stress will affect the shell, the body wil still flex and the ride is poor with no overall gain.

cSL rear arms are adjustable and very light so make sure you get light replacements if you need to do it but gain on track is minimal. I've tried rear camber at -2.0, -2.5 and -3.0 and tbh -2.0 when driving 95% is fine but when you get the car moving under you a but extra canber helps on grip and tyre wear. But is it worth it, prob not.

[Rick H]

Cheers again Shim.

The route I'm going is camber plates up front and potentially the rear control arms. Primarily at this stage, it's a tyre wear upgrade because I'm neither fast enough nor consistent enough for it to be for anything else. To go for a full shock swap out to Nitrons/Intrax etc would be an absolute waste of money for me right now.

Once these upgrades are in, my times are as low as and as consistent as they can be, maybe then I'll judge if aftermarket shocks are worth the expense against potential gains on track. That's for the future.

What I think I'll do then Shim is add the camber plates & Cups but save some money on the arms for now.

Thanks again.

[glendog74]

What I think I'll do then Shim is add the camber plates & Cups but save some money on the arms for now.


I'd recommend this route and was exactly what i did initially along with RTAB limiter kit :thumbs:

[Rick H]

Ordered.

[shimmy]

Ordered.

If you track loads, keeping standard suspension is a false economy. I must have wasted more than the cost of my Intrax in wear on Cups before I upgraded.

I would say seriously consider how much work on track you realistically going to do and if you can afford it and you are doing enough, don't waste money on rear camber arms, solid bushes or canber plates...... Go straight to Intrax ik2 or KW clubsport or similar

[Rick H]

I'd recommend this route and was exactly what i did initially along with RTAB limiter kit :thumbs:

Yip, the car already has the RTAB courtesy of a previous owner. I don't know what difference it makes as I haven't driven a car without the limiter kit.

Thanks again.

[Rick H]

If you track loads, keeping standard suspension is a false economy. I must have wasted more than the cost of my Intrax in wear on Cups before I upgraded.

I would say seriously consider how much work on track you realistically going to do and if you can afford it and you are doing enough, don't waste money on rear camber arms, solid bushes or canber plates...... Go straight to Intrax ik2 or KW clubsport or similar

Decisions, decisions!

Camber plates £400, probably worth £300 to sell on later. Aftermarket shocks £1000s + regular rebuilds - but also a reasonable residual value.

Track days - this year probably 3 or 4, road use not sure really. My thoughts change on it depending how much I've been driving the car to be honest, I'm not a huge fan of it as a road car unless I get the chance to actually drive it as intended.

Not buying the arms gives a couple of extra days on track :thumbs:

When I get sub 2 mins on Oulton consistently +/- .25 secs - justifying shocks is a lot easier ! :hahaha:

[shimmy]

If you spend £1k on aftermarket dampers, you are wasting £1k on TAT. Don't make the car slower!

For serious improvements with value in mind order should be:

1. Cups
2. Brakes
3. Coilovers
4. Remove weight.

[Rick H]

If you spend £1k on aftermarket dampers, you are wasting £1k on TAT. Don't make the car slower!

For serious improvements with value in mind order should be:

1. Cups
2. Brakes
3. Coilovers
4. Remove weight.

£1000s not £1000 :hahaha:

Cups & brakes done :thumbs:

It's personal choice I guess, but I put training before all those - that said it doesn't fall within "on a budget".

[shimmy]

£1000s not £1000 :hahaha:

Cups & brakes done :thumbs:

It's personal choice I guess, but I put training before all those - that said it doesn't fall within "on a budget".

Driver training of course but tbh without a car that works well it can be a lot harder to learn unless you are a natural

[Rick H]

Driver training of course but tbh without a car that works well it can be a lot harder to learn unless you are a natural

Absolutely, I remember trying to flog some hooky golf balls collected from a local range to something called a "golfer".

The "golfer" said the game's hard enough with new ones, never mind using pre-boshed ones.

Lesson learned. Get the right tool for the job :hahaha:

Advice well received, cheers Shim :beer:

[DuncanR]

Mine has some bespoke Tom Schirmer jobbies fitted.:blalalala:

[Clubber]

I am thinking about the Turner Control arms with rubber bushings. Are these the only way to adjust the rear camber ? Isn't there like a upper mount to adjust them like the fronts ?

Also, someone mentioned that our oem arms are also adjustable, then why are we considering these ? More degree/camber ?

[0-60Motorsports]

I am thinking about the Turner Control arms with rubber bushings. Are these the only way to adjust the rear camber ? Isn't there like a upper mount to adjust them like the fronts ?

Also, someone mentioned that our oem arms are also adjustable, then why are we considering these ? More degree/camber ?

Go for the Rogue Engineering Rear Control Arms.

[Clubber]

Go for the Rogue Engineering Rear Control Arms.

I would but they don't have a bushing end, only rod-end and that would be too hard for my occasional street use.

[0-60Motorsports]

I would but they don't have a bushing end, only rod-end and that would be too hard for my occasional street use.

A lot of us are using those and they are just fine. Turner are good for you too.