Retrofitting OEM M3 Dipstick

[karbonkid]

With the recent interest in this modification, I thought I'd share some pics and give a quick insight as to what exactly is involved.

Firstly, removing the Airbox is needed. Removing only the 'Unfiltered Air Housing' should be adequate, giving you enough room.
I removed the entire Airbox (Collector & Unfiltered Housing) as I had other things to perform.

Airbox removed.
http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/5884/o3vo.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/837/o3vo.jpg/)


Once Airbox is removed you can locate the OEM CSL dipstick.
http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4640/agx1.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/41/agx1.jpg/)


http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/5575/6nhw.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/208/6nhw.jpg/)

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/7907/whna.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/whna.jpg/)


Remove CSL dipstick. Just 1x small nut to release the dipstick guide tube.
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/7845/bbt6.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/bbt6.jpg/)


CSL - Left / M3 - Right
(Note - CSL guide tube has bracket welded to it but M3 one comes separate).
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/4423/xiw2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/855/xiw2.jpg/)

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6528/v4ub.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/v4ub.jpg/)


Next comes the hardest part - getting the M3 guide tube to fit into the sump and bending the tube to shape avoiding all components on the way before getting the top to fit into its new location where it will be fixed to secure the tube, preventing it from any movement.

The height of the dipstick is crucial so it will not come in contact with the bonnet when closed and when trying to bend the dipstick around the components the height will adjust as a result so it's a bit of a trial and error to get it just right.

I purchased a used one cheaper to get the shape correct before venturing to buy a brand new one to duplicate.

The art is making the bends as smooth as possible without creating too harsh a bend as the dipstick will struggle to make its way around it. The tip is the part that will have difficulty passing through as it is 58mm in length.

If you are thinking of using a used dipstick and tube just check the dipstick tip is in good condition as it is only plastic and they do break up and they could end up in your sump.

I purchased a used dipstick and guide tube which came from a 60k' ish E46 M3 and although it was described as excellent condition I was soon to check its condition of the tip when it arrived and found a very fine hairline crack down it.
Whilst using it to get the shape, I checked the tip again and noticed it was starting to get worse as the dipstick at times was tight inside the tube before getting it just right.

Pics show crack forming larger before it actually broke up when gently bending in my hands. By this time I had finished with it anyway.
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8031/jbfq.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/29/jbfq.jpg/)

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/646/3cln.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/823/3cln.jpg/)


The tube is 15mm in diameter and although a pipe bender may be of some use I don't think its necessarily needed, I didn't use one. You will have to have a 15mm guide with the bender and most benders will struggle to bend anything but copper piping. You can fill the pipe with tightly packed sand to help prevent any kinks from forming or by using pipe bending springs. However, you can actually bend it by hand if your careful enough. I did heat some of the bends up a little to help.

If you do manage to get a small kink in the tube, a good tip is to fill the tube with water, cover both ends and put it in the freezer. Water expands around 9% when frozen and is great for pushing out dents or kinks. You may have to repeat a few times for it to be effective but use at your own risk.



New Guide Tube & Dipstick

M3 Guide tube - 11437832140 - £58.19
M3 Dipstick - 11437831140 - £17.21
Bracket - 11437840407 - £1.55


The CSL Dipstick will have the O-Ring & Washer for the M3 one to fit but you could always replace it with new ones.

Washer - 11437838127 - £4.40
O-Ring - 11431707164 - £3.16

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/1289/aczg.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/aczg.jpg/)

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/4638/k57n.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/22/k57n.jpg/)


Pics below show where I decided the guide tube to be located.
I decided for it to go under the 2 large rubber hoses shown below - to prevent any compression on them to if it was positioned over the top. I then ran it up the side of the wire harnesses in the black casing. I had to remove the black casing to enable me to attach the tube to the body and position it into the sump, then reassemble it back on once the tube was attached to the body.

In order for the guide tube to go under the 2 large hoses I filled down one of the tabs to prevent any wear on the hoses should any movement occur.
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/7746/fwgq.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543/fwgq.jpg/)

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/5631/ktog.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/ktog.jpg/)

http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/526/w3ub.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/585/w3ub.jpg/)

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1140/hn4n.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/27/hn4n.jpg/)


I didn't want to make a hole in the bodywork to fix and secure the top part of the guide tube which is the only way I have seen people do it, so I made the decision of attaching it to the plastic cover so it can be reversed by buying a new plastic piece should it need to be. This was the reason why I took the guide tube the way I did in order to allow me to have the end of the tube finish in the area where it can be bolted to the plastic piece.

Below shows it fixed to the plastic.
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1442/j82d.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/j82d.jpg/)

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1449/k075.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/k075.jpg/)

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/5013/b8le.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/208/b8le.jpg/)

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/3512/oxnh.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/545/oxnh.jpg/)

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4686/wfzv.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/19/wfzv.jpg/)



Glory Shots
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/8991/u68o.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/849/u68o.jpg/)

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/7049/v5v3.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/v5v3.jpg/)

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http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/7703/p7ll.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/716/p7ll.jpg/)

[73CSL]

superb :)

I wonder why this was never done by the factory ? They obviously went to the effort of producing a CSL specific short dipstick tube

[Pip1968]

superb :)

I wonder why this was never done by the factory ? They obviously went to the effort of producing a CSL specific short dipstick tube

I shall second that. "Superb" indeed no effort spared on the write up and pictures :thumbs:. I too cannot believe BMW did not do this when the electronic one is such a poor substitute. If you spend a day on track you are just hoping and living on a wing and a prayer. :banghead:

Nincompoops.

Pip

[Bounce]

Nice one :thumbs:

[_Nathan_]

I shall second that. "Superb" indeed no effort spared on the write up and pictures :thumbs:. I too cannot believe BMW did not do this when the electronic one is such a poor substitute. If you spend a day on track you are just hoping and living on a wing and a prayer. :banghead:

Nincompoops.

Pip

If your car is burning a litre in a day you are buggered anyway. Check it at start of day, make sure you are 1L over min and relax :beer:

Bunch of girls in here at times :-D

[NZ_M3]

FANTASTIC write up Alex ... might have to do this myself now :thumbs:

ps. I think BMW simply "cut" the standard M3 tube and flared the top and made the measuring stick shorter - too coincidentally similar for both tubes for it to be a separate production I think!!

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6528/v4ub.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/v4ub.jpg/)

[shimmy]

If your car is burning a litre in a day you are buggered anyway. Check it at start of day, make sure you are 1L over min and relax :beer:

Bunch of girls in here at times :-D


Agree, mines never had oil between changes.

Great write up Alex :supz:

[adem.csl]

One small problem is that you have mounted it to the body!!
With that, because the engine moves back and forth it may work the bolt loose!!
Or crack the tube around the fixing weld!!no solid parts that are fixed to the engine are bolted to the body for this reason.other then that the mod is sound as long as you can mount it to the engine so it moves with the engine probabily why bmw didn't do this what with space limitations!!:thumbs:

[shimmy]

One small problem is that you have mounted it to the body!!
With that, because the engine moves back and forth it may work the bolt loose!!
Or crack the tube around the fixing weld!!no solid parts that are fixed to the engine are bolted to the body for this reason.other then that the mod is sound as long as you can mount it to the engine so it moves with the engine probabily why bmw didn't do this what with space limitations!!:thumbs:


screw it thru the airbox>?:smokin::smokin:

[cslsuperfan]

Definitely a second career if you want it!!

Fab write up Alex

Just wanted to start it straight away!!:smokin:

[northernjim]

One small problem is that you have mounted it to the body!!
With that, because the engine moves back and forth it may work the bolt loose!!
Or crack the tube around the fixing weld!!no solid parts that are fixed to the engine are bolted to the body for this reason.other then that the mod is sound as long as you can mount it to the engine so it moves with the engine probabily why bmw didn't do this what with space limitations!!:thumbs:



I must admit I thought about this too- I shall have a look at what holds mine together....... Baling twine perhaps? :supz:

[adem.csl]

Lmao(shimmys idea screw it to the air box)that'll work
Jim the original just sits there as its soo short it only uses its fixing bolt bracket to hold it in???

[shimmy]

Lmao(shimmys idea screw it to the air box)that'll work
Jim the original just sits there as its soo short it only uses its fixing bolt bracket to hold it in???

But surely Jim has an airbox on his CSL ................(no L)

[adem.csl]

Im sure he does but if he wanted to do the long dip stick conversion he would surely find a better mounting area!
Whats (no L)???

[shimmy]

Im sure he does but if he wanted to do the long dip stick conversion he would surely find a better mounting area!
Whats (no L)???

And it's purple :whistle:

[adem.csl]

And it's purple :whistle:


Ahh his cs is a little short of the L!!i get it now
Purple too!!!

[karbonkid]

Adem, your absolutely correct and if I told you it wasn't a concerned of mine originally I would be lying.
I thought about every possible issue that could arise from doing such a modification as I also asked myself why BMW didn't do this. I'm not one to rush into things and what I didn't mention is this in fact took me just under 2 weeks to complete on & off of course last year over the winter, so I had plenty of time to cover most worries I had, going back and forth from the drawing board.
I came to conclusion it would not cause an issue after many methods of testing and as unlike the CSL dipstick, the bracket is not welded to the guide tube as its strength and stability is not dependent on its base as found on the CSL dipstick.
I felt with its ability to move even with the bracket fastened down on the base of the M3 dipstick the top was able to be fixed somewhere, taking advantage of its larger oval shaped mount point whilst including a loosely tightened bolt with a nylon nut to secure from the back. This would allow for any potential movement/ play should any occur without it being completely rigid transferring all energy into the guide tube/ bracket - resulting in fatigue.

As for BMW not fitting this from the factory, I have thought long and hard about this and my conclusion is for 1 - Innovation (the start of BMW not including dipsticks?) with maybe some aesthetics reasons too but at the same time including a hiden/ smaller one would allow for the garage to double check the oil level sensor should they need to by simply removing the unfiltered air housing and 2 - as Tom has said they could have quite possibly just cut down an original M3 one - to save on redesign? Other than that I think the weight saving could have something to do with it too ;) One question us boys forgot to ask the Munich chaps.

You'll notice the prototype CSL didn't have a dipstick showing, so my guess is they had plenty of time to decide when putting the CSL into production.

Strangely I probably check the oil less frequent than before as I felt cautious relying on just a sensor in the sump but I feel better for being able to manually check it when I feel the need too and there's no need to faff around with that sport button to get a live reading either.

[adem.csl]

Kk your mod is a great mod m not slating it only observing a flaw!!but seeing as you have covered it there is nothing to dislike about it.it brings the ability to satisfy yourself your oil level is physically correct
Great write up thanx for sharing

[mattCSLnut]

Great little upgrade there mate :thumbs:
I've added it to my Cecil Winter project to do list, once "ROLF the GOLF" is Sold.

[karbonkid]

Kk your mod is a great mod m not slating it only observing a flaw!!but seeing as you have covered it there is nothing to dislike about it.it brings the ability to satisfy yourself your oil level is physically correct
Great write up thanx for sharing

Of course mate, well observed! :thumbs:

Great little upgrade there mate :thumbs:
I've added it to my Cecil Winter project to do list, once "ROLF the GOLF" is Sold.

I think I'm out the Country that week! :smokin: