my M3 CSL

[alexk]

I started sometime ago a calendar type thread about my CSL which I stopped updating.
I think I will put this calendar here and start posting the updates here ;)

A few things about my CSL.
My CSL is a Swiss version CSL, it has been sold and driven June of 2004.
It has automatic clima, rain sensor, radio cd, xenon lights and speed limiter removal.
Being a Swiss CSL also means it does not have the front license plate holder, as our plates here are tiny and amazing !

I got my CSL October 2008 with 44k km on the clock.
It had one owner.
It's a Silvergrey car (the fast ones)

http://www.clubcsl.com/images/clubcsl/m3-csl-home.jpg

Today the car has 92k km and a few modifications.
- AP racing front and rear brakes (front CP5555 with PF discs and Pagid RS14 / rear AP calipers with OEM discs and Pagid RS14)
- Powerflex ARB bushes front and rear
- GC racing front wishbone bushes
- Powerflex rear trailing arm bushes
- Supersprint Race lightweight backbox
- Ohlins TTX suspension with GC front top mounts, GC front ARB drop links, AST rear top mounts and Eibach springs
- Recaro bottom cushion in the driver's seat

[alexk]

Here are two photos of the recaro cushion
It turned very good, as I am tall.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120425-00036.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120425-00037.jpg

[alexk]

Working on the rear brakes.
The securing bolt had been damaged and I had to get it out the hard way.
Lost many hours.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/DSC00150.JPG

Then, I installed new OEM discs and Pagid RS14 pads.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/DSC00151.jpg

[alexk]

An oil and oil filter change.
Then, a few photos.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120505-00062.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120505-00064.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120505-00063.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120505-00066.jpg

[alexk]

I created an AUX IN module and then connected it to the radio cd.
The circuit is quite simple and costs around 15 EUR to make.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/DSC00180-1400.JPG

[alexk]

So on 31st August 2012 I started the big project of replacing all the bushes and spherical joints of the rear axle.

Here is the picture of the cracked bush.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120831-00450.jpg

[alexk]

The axle is out.
Getting ready to remove the rear suspension.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120905-00453.jpg

In the meantime, I will remove all the rust and repaint the parts.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120905-00455.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120905-00456.jpg

[alexk]

The rear suspension was taken out.

Here during the process :)

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120906-00459.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20120906-00460.jpg

[alexk]

The bolts adjusting the camber had seized.
After a lot of hours... I cut them out.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20121012-00001.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20121013-00003.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20121013-00007.jpg

[alexk]

Courtesy of my brother, I received the special tools of BMW and replaced the bushes.

A heatgun is needed.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20121015-00008.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20121015-00010.jpg

[alexk]

The rear axle carrier needed quite some work to take the rust out and repaint it.
Here with the antirust color

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20121017-00016.jpg

Then painted black.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20121017-00017.jpg

[alexk]

I installed the new bushes (original BMW).

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20121021-00035.jpg

Then I started the assembly.

I bolted the 4 arms (aluminium ones).
Then I put back the axle carrier on the car.
Next was the differential ($*#$#*$U*#$U heavy !!! :moan: )

There was a recall for the differential bolts of the M3 E46 & CSL, as the original bolts were breaking.
On the left the new bolt (it doesn't have threads throughout the length) and on the right the old bolt.

I installed the new bolts.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/IMG-20121023-00045.jpg

I also replaced all other bolts with new ones.

[alexk]

Everything was bolted back together.
I also changed the rear ARB drop links and the brake fluid.

Two months later and the car is ready... :)

[mick csl]

Beautiful car Alex, I have seen it in Munich:thumbs:, Nice too see you do a lot of work on your own.

[0-60Motorsports]

Beautiful CSL. Where did you get the recaro bottom cushion from?

[Loaded]

Great effort Alex and the results looks excellent!

Best

[alexk]

Couple of pics after cleaning both cars with clay and polishing.

They look shiny now.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20131026_133141.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20131026_133158.jpg

[Bounce]

Great pics Alex.:thumbs::thumbs:

[shimmy]

Both look excellent Alex.

[glendog74]

Very nice Alex :thumbs:

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Great pictures :thumbs:

[zipzam]

Beautiful!

[philo]

Love that front number plate surround

[Lefty]

Great stuff!

[Olive]

Impressive work !
Congratulations.

[alexk]

I don't drive the car very often, but last time I had the gremlins of the alternator coming out (battery light coming on/off randomly) so I decided to take it apart.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20131214_193216.jpg

Here is the evil part :)

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20131214_193228.jpg

Took apart to see if the contact rings and contacts look ok.
I suspect the voltage regulator. I will consult my brother.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20131214_202756.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20131214_202747.jpg

[glendog74]

Nice work mate :smokin:

[Alx]

Looks like a nice day spent!

Nice work Alex.

[Equinox]

There are worse things to be doing than working with BMW's Greatest engines.

[0-60Motorsports]

Beautiful cars. Love that Recaro cushion. How much did it cost you?

[digi]

dame - nice work.

[alexk]

So back to the rebuild saga.
Here are the thermostat tests -> thread (http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11865)

Now here is the picture of my radiator.
A lot of dirt. No wonder the cooling system was not performing good.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140313_210610.jpg

More updates to follow in the next days.

[alexk]

A busy weekend but managed to do a lot of things.

Here is the old vs new water pump.
The new pump is slightly different inside, where the bushing is. Also the geometry is slightly different inside. Maybe the flow will be be better (?).

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140315_192811.jpg

Here the water pump installed, with new pulleys and belts.
Also new thermostat and water hoses. Just being proactive with the water hoses.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140315_203549.jpg

The oil radiator was more dirty than the water radiator.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140315_220332.jpg

Here both radiators after cleaning them.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140316_095817.jpg

Here is the front mask in an AC equipped CSL.
It is visible that it is blocking a lot of air.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140315_214106.jpg

There are also these silly ducts (like in the efficient dynamics newer models that close when not going fast or stopped).

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140315_214115.jpg

Just check here how much surface the fan base and fan itself are blocking.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140315_214718.jpg

I binned the fan and here is the end result (like in the non-AC CSLs).
The fan is 4.5kg so another weight saving.
The problem will be if you want to use the AC when stopped in traffic, but I don't mind as I never do this.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140316_104259.jpg

Also, I binned the fan and the fan shroud (more weight savings).
Another 1.8kg saved here.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140316_122115.jpg

Then I put the car back together and started it.
It will be interesting to see what happens next time I have a trackday and it is hot.

[shimmy]

Alex.........superb, you are a brave man,.

[alexk]

I have many updates on the temperature issue topic.

I will come back to you in a week or so.
Need to sort the bloody front top mounts etc.

[shimmy]

I have many updates on the temperature issue topic.

I will come back to you in a week or so.
Need to sort the bloody front top mounts etc.

Very interested to hear this.

I've recently swapped out my rad to a new OeM rad and also put in a new viscous fan clutch thingy.

[Graham]

Very interested to hear the outcome.

Does your a/c still work?

Visibly it looks like it will make a big difference to running cooler.

[shimmy]

Very interested to hear the outcome.

Does your a/c still work?

Visibly it looks like it will make a big difference to running cooler.

Or hotter :)

[Marv968]

There are also these silly ducts (like in the efficient dynamics newer models that close when not going fast or stopped)

Interesting.

How do these flaps work then? Are they attached to a servo?

[Graham]

Or hotter :)

I meant when driving along you'll get a lot more airflow to the front of the road :thumbs:

But it is the sitting in traffic bit that worries me

[shimmy]

I meant when driving along you'll get a lot more airflow to the front of the road :thumbs:

But it is the sitting in traffic bit that worries me

depends how that air gets channelled and directed as well.

[alexk]

Not sure what to write first really.
I will try to summarize.

I changed the alternator. The voltage regulator that I had changed didn't help and replacing the whole unit was necessary.

I found an AC Schnitzer rear strut brace. It's fantastic because you can take it easily out if you want to fit something big. Used one, not cheap but it's what I was looking for all these years.

I ended up replacing:
- Radiator. Only 60% of the radiator was working... so ladies and gentlemen replace your old radiators.
- Thermostat. I put a new one. Feck it, warranty it is
- Water pump. Nothing was wrong with the old one apart from a very small play on the bushing. So prefered to bin it before it dies on it's own.
- Water hoses. Old ones were ok, but better safe than sorry. Would hate to have a blown water hose in the middle of nowhere.
- Fan clutch. Mine was fecked (again). Warranty again.

Before doing all the above I had some very strange overheating occurences.
The car would overheat (if you call 96C overheating) when on camber (the right side higher than the left).
I had overheating only on one specific place of the autobahn, while moving very slowly or stopped due to traffic. After days and days wondering why the car overheats only there, trying to understand what is special, I noticed I am sitting on a camber.
What is more funny is that I replicated the issue at home !
Car flat on the garage idling. No issue.
Jack it up from the right side and the temperature rose.
Take it down, temperature goes down.
I think it had to do with the clutch fan and whether it's engaging or not.

After replacing all the above, I saw only once the same occurence on the same spot of the autobahn.
The only things that would explain this are the following
- cracked gasket or cylinderhead which is creating pressure in the cooling system
- the water temp sensor is fecked OR the groundings of the engine have an issue

I am a very curious individual therefore I ordered a leak down tester tool.
Today I did a leak down test on the engine twice, just to verify the results.
Fortunately, the engine is in perfect condition and I have no issue in the cylinderhead or gasket.

What I will replace now is the water temp sensor.
I am pretty sure there is a problem.


Other news.

I will be selling my AP Racing kit and the Ohlins suspension and going to purchase a KW clubsport suspension and the Brembo GT brake kit (380mm / 6 piston front).
The reason is the ultra strict Swiss MOT :banghead:

[Graham]

That is very strange.

Also how do you know only 60% of the radiator was working and what do you think the reason for this is?

[Loaded]

Other news.

I will be selling my AP Racing kit and the Ohlins suspension and going to purchase a KW clubsport suspension and the Brembo GT brake kit (380mm / 6 piston front).
The reason is the ultra strict Swiss MOT :banghead:

Alex can you explain me with a few words the Swiss MOT?

Thank you

[alexk]

Alex can you explain me with a few words the Swiss MOT?

Thank you

You don't want to have to do anything with them.-

[chris83d]

Stunning car mate!

[alexk]

That is very strange.

Also how do you know only 60% of the radiator was working and what do you think the reason for this is?

Hi Graham.

As suggested by Monkey, I took the radiator out and drained it.
Then I boiled some water and with the radiator on the floor I filled it up with the hot water.
Cold spots are visible then and you can feel with your hand if all the surface is hot or if there any cold spots.
Mine had a 40% space that was completely cold, which indicates that the water was not flowing there.
It's down to age really. A 10 year old radiator will wear out.

[alexk]

So a small update.

The AP Racing kit had to removed from the car, as well as the fantastic Ohlins TTX suspension.
So the OEM brakes are back, along with some Goodridge brake lines and Mintex M1144 pads.
I used ATE racing blue brake fluid this time, for a change.
I also changed again the oil and oil filter.
The pads squeal like hell (like the RS29 on OEM calipers), which I somehow knew from my Z3 coupe.

I also bought a KW clubsport suspension.
Nice bit of kit and I like the way it drives.
Lacks a bit in damping compared to the Ohlins, but it's fully homologated for Switzerland :banghead:

Here a photo of the kit.
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140812_232121.jpg

And a photo of the car now.
I lowered it one more cm, so it's 2 cm lower than OEM now.
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140816_140244.jpg

I will test it at the track next Saturday.
Looking forward to it.
Let's place bets if the brakes won't be able to cope :hahaha:

[Mark CSL]

Looking Great ALEX:thumbs:

[0-60Motorsports]

Looks amazing Alex

[cslsuperfan]

Alex

car is stunning

Epic wheels

Coach work looks amazing. What's your secret to keeping the nose so pristine?

[alexk]

Thanks guys.

The nose is not pristine at all.
It has many stone chips.

[alexk]

So yesterday I went to the track, again at Anneau Du Rhin in a time attack event organised by Speed Industries http://www.speed-industries.ch/wordpress/time-attack-serie/

Let's start with the most important things.
Water temperature issue, SOLVED
We had up to 32C yesterday, the water temp didn't move from the middle at all.
The oil temperature was steady at 110C. I personally never had high oil temperature.

Impressions from the suspension.
Very good. I feel it lacks in high speed damping compared to the Ohlins but I managed to beat easily my best laptime, even with the OEM shit brakes.
Comparing the telemetry data, I have same cornering speed in every corner compared to the Ohlins.
Overall happy with the suspension.
I have the latest version and I found that the settings that I liked more were +3 bound/rebound in the front and +4 bound +8 rebound rear.
I didn't fiddle more with the suspension as it takes some time and I wanted to focus on the driving.

Impressions from the OEM brakes with Mintex M1144.
Fecking hell ! SCARY. Twice I had a ' I have no brakes moment '.
It is a shock after using AP Racing.
Ordering my Brembo kit this week !

Laptimes etc.
I beat my best laptime there and I also got 1st place in the RWD street category.
Best lap of the day measured by the transponders 1:27.07 while the one measured by my telemetry 1:26.4 (it has different start/end point).
I am really surprised to be honest that I managed this, as the brakes were not up to the job.
Also, comparing laptimes in the site serious-racing.com with someone with a 997 GT3 RS, I see that he is faster by 10km/h in every straight, but surprisingly I have higher speed in every corner of the track.
Makes you wonder what the CSL could do with the P54 engine and genuine 420BHP.:whistle:
Note: I don't drive the CSL at it's absolute limit as I don't want to bin it.

Here you can see a 1:27.7 lap

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2K86Wdg83c


And a few photos.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140830_175528.jpg

What was BMW thinking ???

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140830_105530.jpg

The cups were working perfect with the suspension and geometry.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140830_161333.jpg

And one on the way home with a lot of gravel pickup

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20140830_181647.jpg

[shimmy]

alex


fantastic that you've solved the overheating.

also that you beat you fastest laptimes. the brakes when working will still stop you just as quick as the APs as apparently its all limited by tyre grip, AP just give you that consistently.

any ideas why your times were better, maybe more confidence with the suspension and pushing on a bit more or just getting braver with age?

[Loaded]

Very nice pictures and video.

[alexk]

also that you beat you fastest laptimes. the brakes when working will still stop you just as quick as the APs as apparently its all limited by tyre grip, AP just give you that consistently.

any ideas why your times were better, maybe more confidence with the suspension and pushing on a bit more or just getting braver with age?

The modulation the APs offer cannot be compared with the OEM ones.
A few times I was over-braking and many times I had to brake very fast as I was not confident they will stop me.

It is the 3rd time I am on a track with an aftermarket suspension.
The 1st time was last year with the Ohlins on dry track. Then I did a second trackday with the Ohlins in the same racetrack but it was freezing cold and raining, so I was drifting.
The 3rd time was yesterday so I am getting used to the extra grip a proper suspension is offering versus the OEM one.

[alexk]

One more update about my favorite vehicle.

If you remember, I was going to change my brakes to the brembo version that has CH homologation.
So after some waiting, the brake kit arrived.
I got only the front brake kit.
It is the 1M2.9001A5 which means it's the Brembo GT kit for the E46 M3 with monobloc 6-piston yellow calipers, slotted discs of 385x32mm size.
The kit was beautifully packaged and with the necessary Goodridge braided hoses.
The documentation is very good and everything fits perfect.
The build quality is much better than the AP Racing kit, but then again it costs double the money :banghead:

What is interesting is the weight. They are very light considering how big they are.

The caliper and pads are just 5.2 kg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20141001_175335.jpg

While the massive disc is just 9.5 kg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20141001_175713.jpg

Here the OEM CSL disc vs the brembo one

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20141004_094357.jpg

Here fitted

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20141004_150305.jpg

The dimensions of the pistons of these massive calipers are spot on and the fluid capacity is very close to the OEM calipers.
The brake pedal travel and feel is simply perfect !

I am very happy with them.
The wheels just about clear the calipers in the spokes and the rim.
It seems like the wheels were designed to clear them !

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20141004_161444.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20141004_161508.jpg

Then I tried them at the track.
I am running the stock brembo pads and rear Mintex M1144 pads on the OEM brakes.
They are fantastic.
I will upgrade the pads for getting the extra stopping power :thumbs:

And some photos from the beautiful Alsace in France, close to the racetrack... sunset time.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20141013_185401.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20141013_185520.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20141013_185546.jpg

[mattCSLnut]

Very :smokin: BREMBOs :beer:
Any plans to fit the rear BREMBO callipers to match the fronts, in the near future ?

[alexk]

Very :smokin: BREMBOs :beer:
Any plans to fit the rear BREMBO callipers to match the fronts, in the near future ?

I don't see the need right now Matt.
The brake balance is very good at the moment.
BMW is doing the same in the M series, big 6 piston in the front and single piston rears. Work fine in the M5.

[mattCSLnut]

I don't see the need right now Matt.
The brake balance is very good at the moment.
BMW is doing the same in the M series, big 6 piston in the front and single piston rears. Work fine in the M5.

What you say makes sense :thumbs: and it seems to work well on the current generation of M cars but do keep an eye on your rear pad wear as when I did my Porsche BREMBO conversion starting with only the fronts at first, I noticed the wear rate of my rear pads was 2-3 sets of rear pads for every one set of the fronts. This is why soon after fitting the fronts I added the rear BREMBOs :beer: Since then the pad wear rate has evened out to a ration of 1:1, front to rear.

[Clacquam]

Nice work...

[CraigMillwardCroft]

What you say makes sense :thumbs: and it seems to work well on the current generation of M cars but do keep an eye on your rear pad wear as when I did my Porsche BREMBO conversion starting with only the fronts at first, I noticed the wear rate of my rear pads was 2-3 sets of rear pads for every one set of the fronts. This is why soon after fitting the fronts I added the rear BREMBOs :beer: Since then the pad wear rate has evened out to a ration of 1:1, front to rear.

I have noticed with AP's on front back brakes are over heating and wearing down quicker and that was even in the wet.

[alexk]

What Matt says makes sense because the rear pad surface is smaller therefore more material will be used.
The AP setup has rear discs with the same dimensions to the OEM discs (i was running my OEM discs).
I haven't seen a problem now and with rear pads at 1/4 of brembo rear pads, i will leave it like this for now.

[Manum3]

Hi,

thanks for the info.

What is the weight of the oem front disc in kg ?

[alexk]

A video from last year :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZeTH5Tk1j2w

[dwenrhod]

Nice work dude...

[alexk]

I had a great day yesterday at Monza.

I did 4 30-minute sessions :)

Here is a video of my fastest lap of the day :thumbs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2AM7tK1Zlo

[shimmy]

great lap Alex, a damn sight faster than my quickest lap in 2008.

[Clubber]

I had a great day yesterday at Monza.

I did 4 30-minute sessions :)

Here is a video of my fastest lap of the day :thumbs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2AM7tK1Zlo

Great lap. May I ask which telemetry setup is that ?

[alexk]

shimmy > thanks mate. I can go even faster but the pads (currently the road-friendly pads) didn't give me so much confidence. Nevertheless in 3 braking points I hit the brakes at 100m :thumbs:

clubber > It is the RaceChrono Pro. I am using it since years with a bluetooth 10Hz receiver (Qstarz BT818X).
I was condidering to get the racelogic 20Hz BT unit but the position accuracy is worse than the one I currently have.

[Clubber]

clubber > It is the RaceChrono Pro. I am using it since years with a bluetooth 10Hz receiver (Qstarz BT818X).
I was condidering to get the racelogic 20Hz BT unit but the position accuracy is worse than the one I currently have.

I just realized it is for androids. I use an iPhone 6 with my Harry's Lap timer app, although having difficulty overlaying OBD info. Which obd reader do you use ?

[alexk]

I just realized it is for androids. I use an iPhone 6 with my Harry's Lap timer app, although having difficulty overlaying OBD info. Which obd reader do you use ?

I use obd key http://www.obdkey.com/

[alexk]

And a few photos now :)

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/10845841_10203863010477602_1812568971549335070_o.j pg


http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/10956478_10203863005237471_7916817052110639977_o.j pg


http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/11070842_10203863013597680_8923334526668463111_o.j pg


http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/11082219_10203863019917838_6529141114560131092_o.j pg


http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/11095595_10203863016197745_6114684913397236166_o.j pg

[mattCSLnut]

Great shot :smokin: (and lap) Alex :supz: which reminds me to ask... how did your new BREMBO brake set up perform ?

[glendog74]

Great photos Alex :thumbs:

[alexk]

Matt there was a mistake done by brembo for their racing pads and I went with the road sporty pads the brakes came with.
Surprisingly I survived although the confidence was not great and of course the pads got destroyed. On the way back there was hardly any front braking.

Interesting fact.
My rear Mintex M1144 pads lost 5mm of material in these 40 laps or so that I did.

Annoying fact of the day about the Kw clubsport suspension.
In order to change rear pads you need to unbolt the rear dampers.
Epic fail!

[glendog74]

Annoying fact of the day about the Kw clubsport suspension.
In order to change rear pads you need to unbolt the rear dampers.
Epic fail!

What?! Which KW CS version do you have as i do not have this issue! :smt102

[alexk]

What?! Which KW CS version do you have as i do not have this issue! :smt102

The new version (2014).
Mind you my rear calipers are OEM, you have AP Racing.

[mattCSLnut]

Matt there was a mistake done by brembo for their racing pads and I went with the road sporty pads the brakes came with.
Surprisingly I survived although the confidence was not great and of course the pads got destroyed. On the way back there was hardly any front braking.

Interesting fact.
My rear Mintex M1144 pads lost 5mm of material in these 40 laps or so that I did.
That's an impressively low wear rate for the rear pads in OE callipers :thumbs: I guess the front BREMBOs were very busy munching the soft pads ;)

Annoying fact of the day about the Kw clubsport suspension.
In order to change rear pads you need to unbolt the rear dampers.
Epic fail!

It seems odd KW overlooked the OE rear brake set up with their CS kit. :banghead: Did you manage to undo just the bottom bolt and swing the rear shock out of the way enough to change your rear pads ? I bet you miss your old OHLINS set up :bigcry:

[alexk]

It seems odd KW overlooked the OE rear brake set up with their CS kit. :banghead: Did you manage to undo just the bottom bolt and swing the rear shock out of the way enough to change your rear pads ? I bet you miss your old OHLINS set up :bigcry:

Yes Matt. I miss the Ohlins especially when I go to the track.
The Ohlins as a race suspension was dead easy to adjust. Just crawl under. Job done.

The Kw needs a jack, lift the car etc etc.

Swiss MOT. Its the way it is.

[mattCSLnut]

Yes Matt. I miss the Ohlins especially when I go to the track.
The Ohlins as a race suspension was dead easy to adjust. Just crawl under. Job done.

The Kw needs a jack, lift the car etc etc.

It's exactly for that reason I've disliked KW set up in the past. Whiles my Bilstein PSS10 isn't as RACEY as KW CS or Ohlins, it's as simple and convenient to adjust as the Ohlins (no jack required) with only 10 clicks from soft to hard. Simples :thumbs:

Swiss MOT. Its the way it is.

They sure know how to spoil car guys having fan with their cars :banghead:

[alexk]

So here is a photo of the rear KW clubsport dampers (version of 2014).
As you can see with the OEM calipers there is no chance to remove the calipers (change pads) without having to remove the rear damper and moving it out of the way.

Annoying is the word that describes it.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150411_164725.jpg

[alexk]

Here are the pads after Monza.
The rear ones were Mintex M1144.
Very good pad and never let me down on the CSL and the Z3 coupe.
They also do not make any stupid noises :thumbs:

The front pads boiled as expected :hahaha:

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150401_201731.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150412_101656.jpg

[alexk]

I am very happy with my CSL but when you meet cars at the track with more horsepower, it is annoying to see them being faster on the straights.
BHP increase in the CSL is a painful road so I started running out of ideas.
Then Mr Gorilla reminded me about the importance of weight saving.

I think I can relative easy remove another 50kgs from my CSL, but what would this mean ?

I did some tests and now I will bore you with numbers.
The tests happened in a controlled environment, with exact same conditions and on the same test track.
I did two runs with less weight and then I added 32kgs to the car and repeated the same runs.
All runs were done with 3rd gear so as I don't shift gear.

Run with 32kgs less
70 -> 145 km/h
time: 6.3 secs
distance: 0.19km

60 -> 150 km/h
time: 8.0 secs
distance: 0.23km

Run with 32kgs more
70->145 km/h
time: 6.5 secs
distance: 0.20 km

60 -> 150 km/h
time: 8.1 secs
distance: 0.24 km

So we see here that when the car has 32kg added, it's consistently ~200ms slower in this type of acceleration and that in a virtual race it would be 100m behind compared to the lighter car.
That is a shocking difference.
Reducing 50-60kg from the weight of the already light CSL would have a significant difference.

I decided to start a CSL diet.

And here is a photo of the CSL yesterday, after I cleaned and polished it :)

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150412_141531.jpg

[shimmy]

and heres today after the work

[glendog74]

and heres today after the work

Lol! :bigcry:

[Clubber]

I am very happy with my CSL but when you meet cars at the track with more horsepower, it is annoying to see them being faster on the straights.
BHP increase in the CSL is a painful road so I started running out of ideas.
Then Mr Gorilla reminded me about the importance of weight saving.

I think I can relative easy remove another 50kgs from my CSL, but what would this mean ?

I did some tests and now I will bore you with numbers.
The tests happened in a controlled environment, with exact same conditions and on the same test track.
I did two runs with less weight and then I added 32kgs to the car and repeated the same runs.
All runs were done with 3rd gear so as I don't shift gear.

Run with 32kgs less
70 -> 145 km/h
time: 6.3 secs
distance: 0.19km

60 -> 150 km/h
time: 8.0 secs
distance: 0.23km

Run with 32kgs more
70->145 km/h
time: 6.5 secs
distance: 0.20 km

60 -> 150 km/h
time: 8.1 secs
distance: 0.24 km

So we see here that when the car has 32kg added, it's consistently ~200ms slower in this type of acceleration and that in a virtual race it would be 100m behind compared to the lighter car.
That is a shocking difference.
Reducing 50-60kg from the weight of the already light CSL would have a significant difference.

I decided to start a CSL diet.

And here is a photo of the CSL yesterday, after I cleaned and polished it :)



I also decided to take the same route, power increase is almost impossible as CSL engine is stressed as it is. I am not willing to stress it even further for MAYBE +10hp which I can hardly feel.
Less weight is the key. 18" Ultraleggera's saved 3kg per wheel including tires. Which made a huge difference.
On my next outing I will install JIC Magic Cross Titanium backbox and Braille battery to cut down a further estimated 25kg. And AP setup for a few kg's more. Let's see if it will make any difference.

[Mike R]

Hi Alex,
Can you list everything you did to take out the weight? How do you think this will affect the handling balance of the car, as BMW went to great lengths to get a 50/50 weight distribution?

Will you then corner weight the car to put it back to where it should be by adjusting the coilovers?
Cheers

[alexk]

Hi Alex,
Can you list everything you did to take out the weight? How do you think this will affect the handling balance of the car, as BMW went to great lengths to get a 50/50 weight distribution?

Will you then corner weight the car to put it back to where it should be by adjusting the coilovers?
Cheers

Hi Mike

That was just a test to see what effect it would have.
I just put a spare diff from an M3 E30 in the trunk...

In terms of weight savings, I now plan to do the following:
- Braille battery
- Remove rear seats
- Change front seats to Recaro pole position
- Bin the secondary air pump

As each axle weights ~675kg, removing a bit of weight from here and there is not affecting so much the weight distribution (especially seats are between the axles and in the middle).
I am not too bothered about corner weighting. I personally find this over the top with no real results as the weight on each wheel is dynamic when we drive the car.
You accelerate in a straight line, more weight on the rear wheels.
You accelerate while turning left, more weight on the rear right wheel.
Et cetera.
Pointless in my opinion.

[Loaded]

You have a nice plan ahead of you Alex!

[khooni]

why not recaro spg or spa?

[cslsuperfan]

why not recaro spg or spa?


Spa 2.5Kgs.....yummy

[alexk]

I am considering the SPG too.
But I need to see them live and test them.

A bit difficult this :(

[alexk]

A part which is a bit unnecessary and adds weight is the secondary air pump.
This blows air in the exhaust manifold to make the emissions look better.
It's common practice in motorbikes to remove this air pump.

BMW is offering a block of plate for the cylinderhead of the S54 to close the hole once you remove it.

Here it is.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150425_125903.jpg

Only 16g of weight :)

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150425_125937.jpg


Here the pump removed.
1448g

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150425_125737.jpg

And the pipe with the valve.
252g

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150425_125746.jpg


So here we have 1.7kg of weight removed with a cost of 25 EUR.

Unlike my Yamaha R1, the CSL is supposed to have a check engine light because I removed this pump.
The engine light didn't come on yet.
I will explain how we deal with this by reprogramming the ECU ;)

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Some parts seem to be that heavy concrete cracked :whistle:

[Levente]

for me the most suprising weight is the original exhaust backbox, what were they thinking to put this on a CSL? its like moving a rock. its damn heavy.

[glendog74]

A part which is a bit unnecessary and adds weight is the secondary air pump.
This blows air in the exhaust manifold to make the emissions look better.
It's common practice in motorbikes to remove this air pump.

BMW is offering a block of plate for the cylinderhead of the S54 to close the hole once you remove it.

Here it is.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150425_125903.jpg

Only 16g of weight :)

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150425_125937.jpg




So here we have 1.7kg of weight removed with a cost of 25 EUR.

Unlike my Yamaha R1, the CSL is supposed to have a check engine light because I removed this pump.
The engine light didn't come on yet.
I will explain how we deal with this by reprogramming the ECU ;)

:thumbs: :thumbs:

Any light yet Alex?

[glendog74]

for me the most suprising weight is the original exhaust backbox, what were they thinking to put this on a CSL? its like moving a rock. its damn heavy.

+1 :bigcry:

[alexk]

for me the most suprising weight is the original exhaust backbox, what were they thinking to put this on a CSL? its like moving a rock. its damn heavy.

The CSL concept car had a titanium full exhaust (headers all the way to the backbox) and the backbox had carbon exhaust tips.
Where do you think Akrapovic got the idea from ? :thumbs:

:thumbs: :thumbs:

Any light yet Alex?

No light yet Rob.
As soon as it appears, I will explain what I am doing to resolve this.

[mattCSLnut]

for me the most suprising weight is the original exhaust backbox, what were they thinking to put this on a CSL? its like moving a rock. its damn heavy.

... a 25 kg rock :banghead:

[alexk]

... a 25 kg rock :banghead:

Supersprint SS race lightweight should have been OEM !

[mattCSLnut]

Supersprint SS race lightweight should have been OEM !

:thumbs: many of us have made it OEM :supz: retrospectively ;)

[glendog74]

No light yet Rob.
As soon as it appears, I will explain what I am doing to resolve this.

Thanks mate :thumbs:

:thumbs: many of us have made it OEM :supz: retrospectively ;)

:supz: :supz: :supz:

[alexk]

After a couple of days the engine light turned on. Remember I have removed the secondary air pump.
The Diagnostic Trouble Code (aka DTC) is the AA (0xAA) from the DME.

The credit for the below belongs to the great work done by a few guys in the m3forum.net . I have helped them more than a year ago when I gave them a full export of the CSL map (I have an unrestricted CSL).
Here is the forum thread with all the info -> http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=423771
I have read all pages and NO I don't have so much free time.

1. First I take a partial export of the CSL ECU code which is 64kB (aka kilobytes = 64 x 1024 bytes = 65536 bytes). The full export of the CSL ECU code is 1024 kB = 1MB.

2. I need to find the version of the map.
You go to the byte offset (or address) 0xBFB8 and see the last 4 digits.
2113 2500 0301 PD71. (there is also 0401 version)
This means, the secondary air pump configuration is in byte offset 0xC100.

3. I go to offset 0xC100.
The stock string is 01 FF 04 B0 5F AA.
01 -> K_SLS_OBD = switch on / off
5F -> K_SLS_UB_MIN = default is 9.5V
AA -> K_SLS_UB_MAX = default is 17.0V

I switch the 01 to 00 to completely disable the pump, the 5F to B9 (18.5V) and the AA to B9 (18.5V). With the high values the pump will never be enabled.
The new string is 00 FF 04 B0 B9 B9

4. Now I need to disable the DTC checking. This will mean there will be no check engine lights from now on. The ECU will just ignore whether the pump exists, works etc.

The 301 version of the CSL map that I have has the 0xAA DTC code in offset 0xF3BE.

The OEM string is -> AA 01 01 01 01 01 01 00 01 02 03 28 27 FF
There are a few methods to disable this.
I will zero out the last 2 digits before the FF digits so the string becomes.
AA 01 01 01 01 01 01 00 01 02 03 28 00 FF


5. At this point I decided that I need to finally enable the sport button memory. It's always annoying having to press the sport button. I always use sport mode.

The CSL map has this in offset 0x8026.

You find the string -> 01 02 1E 14 FF FF 03. Change 03 to 04.
The updated string -> 01 02 1E 14 FF FF 04

6. Now I need to calculate and update the checksum of the ECU map file, otherwise the ECU will not boot and the car will not work.

I used the MSS54CheckSumCorrectionTool.exe program that works like a dream.
You can download this here https://dl.dropbox.com/s/ym8amldnz79q3nw/MSS54CheckSumCorrectionTool.exe?dl=1


7. Then I use again the BMWFlash.exe software to write the map to the car.
http://bimmersoftware.com/bmwflash

8. Start the car and enjoy :)

In order to do the above someone needs a USB to OBD cable.
I have this one.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150516_204152.jpg

Here the code of the map.
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150516_194137.jpg

Here when I was writing the map back to the car.
You need a good laptop with charger and also the car to be in a battery charger.
You don't want this to abort :hahaha:
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/20150516_194300.jpg


Last point.
If someone needs help with your maps to enable/disable any of the features found by the m3forum group, I could help you.
However you would need to buy your own cable and then read/write the maps on your own.

[alexk]

Yesterday I did a time attack event in the French track Anneau du Rhin.
Although I improved my laptime by 2 secs I was put in the category of RWD Pro (open to all modifications... so the other cars were race cars) and only managed to be 4th.
My best laptime was 1:24.8 and did many many laps at 1:25.
I did 120+ laps in total.

As I have different front calipers, my car was considered a race car.
Funnily enough, in the street category there were 3 E36 M3s with stripped out interior, rollcage, seats and the list goes on.... but had OEM brake calipers.

It was a hot day (35C) and there was a lot of sliding and limited traction.

Here is a video.
It was impossible to go any faster.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELMDZtXjy0c

[Brandtner]

Great write up and vid. Thanks!

[mick csl]

Nice driving Alex :smt055

[Mike R]

If you're being lumped into the race car class, does that mean you have the option now of running slicks :) ?

[Loaded]

Nice video Alex. It looks like a very nice track.

[alexk]

Thanks guys.

Mike > the race cars were also running semi-slicks, slicks were not allowed. In theory if I had less weight and the ARBs I could possibly be in place #3 or #2. The optimal lap had a 2 sec difference which shows the problem of losing time in different parts of the track on each lap.
Oh well :) excuses excuses

[Mike R]

Thanks guys.

Mike > the race cars were also running semi-slicks, slicks were not allowed. In theory if I had less weight and the ARBs I could possibly be in place #3 or #2. The optimal lap had a 2 sec difference which shows the problem of losing time in different parts of the track on each lap.
Oh well :) excuses excuses

Try the DZ03Gs - they're reputedly better even than the Cups :)?

Only thing I can think of dynamically.

The passenger seat takes less than 3 mins to remove, so is an easy 10-12kg out of the car.

[alexk]

So, would you change the BBS RS-GT wheels for OEM CSL wheels ?

Ideas ?

[Loaded]

I was never a fan of the BBS RS-GT. I still have a brand new (in the box) BBS CH Black Edition in 19'' but i'm considering to buy the new F1 in satin black.

It is a stunning piece of art.

Of course OEM will always be classic and good looking!

BTW, CH-R looks also a good choice.

[Mike R]

I prefer the OE wheels to either the CH's or RS's. The LMs do it for me, followed by the E88s (has to be with gold centres though :) ).

[Loaded]

In a way i agree with you. The F1 i'm going to use them only in track days. About the E88s...they're going to be installed on my upcoming 2016 Cayman GT4!

:-D:-D

[alexk]

I am planning to buy a set of new OEM CSL wheels next year, fit some cup 2s.
Then do a direct comparison with the Original cups.
Then maybe I will sell the RS-GTs.
The RS-GT is a good wheel, I like it. But most times I prefer the OEM CSL wheels.

Unfortunately I cannot fit BBS E88s :banghead:

[Loaded]

I am planning to buy a set of new OEM CSL wheels next year, fit some cup 2s.
Unfortunately I cannot fit BBS E88s :banghead:
I know in Greece a couple of OEM brand new sets. Do you want me to ask for a price?

About E88s ii don't think that you have to change the uprights..

[alexk]

I know in Greece a couple of OEM brand new sets. Do you want me to ask for a price?

About E88s ii don't think that you have to change the uprights..

Thanks but I will buy them from my brother.

E88s = keine Schweizer Strassenzulassung...

[Loaded]

Thanks but I will buy them from my brother.

E88s = keine Schweizer Strassenzulassung...

No problem. I didn't know that it is illegal in Switzerland. I think that i've seen a Swiss regsterd M3 E46 with E88s. It was looking street legal with full interior...

That sucks..

[alexk]

Last sunday I participated to the last round of the Time Attack Italian series in Monza.

Mixed feelings as I got very little track time and a lot of people driving very weird in my opinion.
I managed to drop my laptime by a second and I did a 2:14.3 but I know I could go even faster.
The H&R antiroll bars certainly helped a lot and the Pagid RS29 pads ! (Thanks Martin !!!)
I could run my dampers softer (Monza has bumps) and had very little body roll due to the ARBs. The car works great at the moment and I loved it.

Here a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaznU16wP70

And here the superlap...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ou4drpJjr70

[alexk]

Installed some VAC ultralight pulleys.
Chuffed about the results :)

http://www.cslregister.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13840

[Mike R]

Any updates this year :)?

[alexk]

I need to put the data of the H&R anti roll bars and will be doing a service soon, will keep you updated.
I did some modifications on my M5 ;) .

Next year I may buy a 2nd set of wheels for the CSL.
Other upgrades ? Don't see something missing.

[alexk]

No update in a very long time.

Not much changed other than that I am still driving and enjoying the CSL.
I installed Michelin Cup 2 tyres and recently I did the Inspection 2 service, including adjusting the valve clearance on my own.
I had only 5 valves needing slight adjustment.

Here's a photo from last weekend.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/CSL-201705.jpg

And today I did another leak down test and all cylinders checked out fine :thumbs:

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/CSL-leakdown-test.jpg

I am in the process of installing my SPAL electric fan. It has been sitting for 2 years but the following video of engine masters (I have a Motortrend on demand subscription and watch various series) convinced me to get this 10HP of parasitic loss.
You can expect as always a comparison with data ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXdLgaFXZzs&t=420s

[Alx]

Great post as always!

Thanks for sharing. :thumbs:

[Mike R]

Any opinions on the Cup 2s yet :)?

[alexk]

Any opinions on the Cup 2s yet :)?

June 11th Mike. Will tell you that day.

[alexk]

It has been a while since I posted something.

I continue reducing the weight of the car without compromising the comfort and practicality it has.

This JMT lithium battery was on offer from 500 EUR to 250 EUR and I bought one !
I had to buy the battery posts separately. They are XS power (XS power 586 Tall Brass Post Adaptors M6).
The battery is very light - 2091 g
It works great and it will not discharge when the car is not being driven for 5 weeks.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/jmt-battery-weight.jpg


I then started making my own battery holder as this battery is very small compared to the OEM
Also, there were some weight savings as the OEM battery holder is very heavy.

1310 g
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/OEM-battery-holder.jpg

I made the new holder from aluminium.

Only 237 g
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/battery-holder-weight.jpg

In the car - yes I put lighter nuts :whistle:

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/battery-holder-in-car.jpg

In the car with the lithium battery

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/battery-in-car.jpg


Results:

OEM Battery + OEM holder = 15.6 kg + 1.3 kg = 16.9 kg
JMT Lithium Battery + Alexk holder = 2.1 kg + 0.2 kg = 2.3 kg
Weight savings = 14.6 kg

Not bad for 250 EUR :)

[0-60Motorsports]

Thats a great mod.

[Mike R]

Wow, that is a significant saving :) .

Does the Lithium battery need a special trickle charger :) ?

[alexk]

Wow, that is a significant saving :) .

Does the Lithium battery need a special trickle charger :) ?

It's a special lithium battery charger Mike.

[MisterCorn]

It is a very impressive weight saving, but I would have some concerns about how well the battery would be held in place in an impact.

MC

[alexk]

It is a very impressive weight saving, but I would have some concerns about how well the battery would be held in place in an impact.

MC

Fair comment, but the battery is only 2 kilos.
Worst case scenario is that the holder will bent, but that's the least of my concerns in a very severe crash.

[alexk]

I realized just now that I never posted the electric fan installation.
I have done a very good job with this one :thumbs:
I couldn't see with my telemetry a performance difference.

I will write something tonight.

[alexk]

Almost a year since the last post :whistle:

Here we go.

Some time ago I removed the front AC fan as I believe it is reducing the airflow to the radiators.

The fan I bought to replace the mechanical fan is a SPAL - VA18-AP71/LL-59A.
The item number is -> # 30102049 . 2070 CFM 16" Spal Curved Blade Puller Fan

The unit is 2440g which means it's 700g heavier than the mechanical fan which is 1710g.
But, it reduces the parasitic losses and you can get to remove the AC fan which is a very heavy unit.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/fan-01.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/fan-02.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/fan-03.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/fan-04.jpg

Mounting it was as easy as drilling 4 holes in the radiator, using 4 brackets and bolting it.

The clearance to the engine is simply perfect - like if it was made for the CSL.
I also cut the OEM fan shroud and put it back on.
The installations looks very clean.

I am driving this fan using the control unit of the AC fan and it works perfect.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/fan-05.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/fan-06.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/fan-07.jpg

[monkeycsl]

Does ac still work ok??

[CraigMillwardCroft]

Neat looking job :thumbs:

[alexk]

Does ac still work ok??

Yes - no problems.

[alexk]

One more performance update.

I bought a set of titanium wheel bolts.
They were discounted and I could not resist.

The BBS wheel bolts are 388g while the titanium ones are 173g.
This is a 215g difference.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/wheel-bolts-bbs.jpg

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/wheel-bolts-titanium.jpg

[glendog74]

Nice :thumbs:

[Mike R]

Nice mods :).

I did the titanium stud and nut kit, as it makes swapping wheels over a little easier :).

[alexk]

A long overdue post as I did this work back in April...
I was getting the car ready to do a trackday at the Ring, but then I decided to take the M5 instead as it was raining.

I had decided to replace the conrod bearings as proactive maintenance.
The car had 112800 km. Now it has 115k km and still runs strong.

I started by removing the front subframe.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-suspension-01.jpg

I bought from Ebay the tool to hold the engine.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-04.jpg

But before we continue, check these original BMW workshop tools my brother got me :thumbs:

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/tool-angle.jpg

This one is to fill in oil in gearboxes / differentials and its very precise and you can use all the oil without wasting any of it.


http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/oil-bmw-tool.jpg

Here we can see the mighty crankshaft.
The engine is super clean inside. The 3k km oil changes are the reason behind it :whistle:

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-01.jpg

I know what you are thinking, why is the crankshaft blue / purple ?
Don't worry, it's normal for some of these as they were heat treated from the factory.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-02.jpg

The bearings were not too bad, but not too great either.
I think timing was good.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-00.jpg

In more detail

#1
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-1.jpg

#2
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-2.jpg

#3
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-3.jpg

#4
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-4.jpg

#5
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-5.jpg

#6
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-6.jpg

While doing all this work, I changed the leaking steering rack hose

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-06.jpg

And the engine mounts - look the difference !

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-07.jpg

And did the valve clearance again. Only 1 valve was slightly off :thumbs:

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-05.jpg

Also, I changed the sparkplugs and the coil packs - also proactive maintenance.

All this was great but then I thought, it's good if I do this modification I always wanted to do.

Some carbon scavenged by a crashed Lamborghini GT3 racecar in Hockenheim.
The aluminium bolt is from a N54 engine.... because CSLs are meant to be light.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-oil-catch-03.jpg

Here with the oil catch tank.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-oil-catch-01.jpg

And mounted. The hoses are nice silicon ones.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-oil-catch-02.jpg

The catch tank works great.

[0-60Motorsports]

A long overdue post as I did this work back in April...
I was getting the car ready to do a trackday at the Ring, but then I decided to take the M5 instead as it was raining.

I had decided to replace the conrod bearings as proactive maintenance.
The car had 112800 km. Now it has 115k km and still runs strong.

I started by removing the front subframe.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-suspension-01.jpg

I bought from Ebay the tool to hold the engine.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-04.jpg

But before we continue, check these original BMW workshop tools my brother got me :thumbs:

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/tool-angle.jpg

This one is to fill in oil in gearboxes / differentials and its very precise and you can use all the oil without wasting any of it.


http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/oil-bmw-tool.jpg

Here we can see the mighty crankshaft.
The engine is super clean inside. The 3k km oil changes are the reason behind it :whistle:

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-01.jpg

I know what you are thinking, why is the crankshaft blue / purple ?
Don't worry, it's normal for some of these as they were heat treated from the factory.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-02.jpg

The bearings were not too bad, but not too great either.
I think timing was good.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-00.jpg

In more detail

#1
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-1.jpg

#2
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-2.jpg

#3
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-3.jpg

#4
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-4.jpg

#5
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-5.jpg

#6
http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-bearings-6.jpg

While doing all this work, I changed the leaking steering rack hose

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-06.jpg

And the engine mounts - look the difference !

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-07.jpg

And did the valve clearance again. Only 1 valve was slightly off :thumbs:

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-engine-05.jpg

Also, I changed the sparkplugs and the coil packs - also proactive maintenance.

All this was great but then I thought, it's good if I do this modification I always wanted to do.

Some carbon scavenged by a crashed Lamborghini GT3 racecar in Hockenheim.
The aluminium bolt is from a N54 engine.... because CSLs are meant to be light.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-oil-catch-03.jpg

Here with the oil catch tank.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-oil-catch-01.jpg

And mounted. The hoses are nice silicon ones.

http://www.clubcsl.com/CSL/blog/csl-oil-catch-02.jpg

The catch tank works great.

Excellent work! Those bearings were close mate lol. I do 5k Km oil changes

[Chad]

I was thinking the bearings Didn’t look to bad ,, were they the original. Or the king race as in the photo the first coating looks black like the king race. The original are more grey from memory ,, saying that mine were down to the copper colour on a few ,, at 65k miles ,, new shells can’t hurt :thumbs: always seems to be the upper shell that get most abuse

[alexk]

I was thinking the bearings Didn’t look to bad ,, were they the original. Or the king race as in the photo the first coating looks black like the king race. The original are more grey from memory ,, saying that mine were down to the copper colour on a few ,, at 65k miles ,, new shells can’t hurt :thumbs: always seems to be the upper shell that get most abuse

No they are the original ones.
I refitted original bearings and bolts.

The left ones are the bottom ones and as you can see on mine they are worse than the top ones.

[alexk]

A recent video from a dyno test

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7pihEJ5aao

[0-60Motorsports]

Not bad at all! Should make some more on fresh 98/99

[alexk]

Not bad at all! Should make some more on fresh 98/99

Yes exactly :thumbs:

[rstoughy]

Nice :thumbs:

Still cant beat the induction note of a CSL :smokin:

[DazBlackCSL]

Nice Al :thumbs: